Failed CA Smog & More....
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From: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
Failed CA Smog & More....
Today.... took the car in and passed the emission portion and failed the OBC II codes. Call the referee for an appointment and an hour later was at Pierce Jr. College smog referee station. This is the same as two years ago. However, as others have stated, things have changed. The referee stated that I had 5 codes showing not ready. Three is the max allowed. I either had to take the car to a smog repair shop and spend up to $450 or a Porsche dealer. I stopped by the dealer and for a mere $300 they will drive it with a computer hooked up to it and see that all codes are loaded. Wow, the car runs clean and I have to spend $300 to load the codes. Ugggghhh.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,017
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
That sucks. Sorry to hear it. I guess your other option is a good 100 mile or so highway drive. Is there a way to check readiness codes yourself with an OBDII reader? If so you're welcome to borrow mine!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 3
From: Incline Village, NV
Yes, with the right reader you can tell which codes are ready. You don't need to spend dealer money on that unless you want to. Search on "Drive Cycles" and you'll see info on how to do it yourself. Key is long idle in the garage - Like 10 minutes IIRC, and don't drive fast.
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
I have the Actron 9180. I just looked at the manual and it appears to have drive cycle monitoring. Like I said, you're welcome to it if you wanna try to clear the codes yourself. Lemme know!
Race Car
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,681
Likes: 11
From: Johns Creek, GA
Chuck,
Don't need to pay the dealer to drive your car!. Just buy a ODBII scanner that shows the Readiness status individually like the Actron CP9175 ($140 from Autozone I think).
http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16309
Do a search on the driving cycle routine that must be followed. I used the BMW sequence and worked for me.
They key, beside the long idle from cold, is to drive for 15 minutes under 3K rpms and under 55 mph, and you must do this at least twice in the same driving cycle. Hard to do in our cars, but eventually that's what set my codes. I had the Actron pluged in all the time so I could monitor when the readiness codes are set, otherwise you'll be doing the driving cycle blind.
Edit: I see that Gonzilla above has the Actron 9180. That works too.
Don't need to pay the dealer to drive your car!. Just buy a ODBII scanner that shows the Readiness status individually like the Actron CP9175 ($140 from Autozone I think).
http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16309
Do a search on the driving cycle routine that must be followed. I used the BMW sequence and worked for me.
They key, beside the long idle from cold, is to drive for 15 minutes under 3K rpms and under 55 mph, and you must do this at least twice in the same driving cycle. Hard to do in our cars, but eventually that's what set my codes. I had the Actron pluged in all the time so I could monitor when the readiness codes are set, otherwise you'll be doing the driving cycle blind.
Edit: I see that Gonzilla above has the Actron 9180. That works too.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Bethlehem, GA
Here's the reset info. It works. (CORRECTED VERSION)
At the same time the OBDII cpu codes are reset, the "readiness codes" are also
reset. The readiness code indicates whether each of the 8 system sensors have
completed it's diagnostic check. So the inspection station doesn't see a trouble
code but also sees that the readiness code is off (actually it reads more than
"0").
Once the CE light is cleared the following readiness cycle can be followed to
reset the code or you could drive the car for a while in a variety of situations
that would allow each system to do it's thing:
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (Tiptronic trans.)
Following the start engine phase, the sequence of test conditions may
interchange.
The readiness code clearing routine will be discontinued whenever:
- Engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM
- Large fluctuations in throttle angle
- Road speed exceeds 60 MPH
============
At the same time the OBDII cpu codes are reset, the "readiness codes" are also
reset. The readiness code indicates whether each of the 8 system sensors have
completed it's diagnostic check. So the inspection station doesn't see a trouble
code but also sees that the readiness code is off (actually it reads more than
"0").
Once the CE light is cleared the following readiness cycle can be followed to
reset the code or you could drive the car for a while in a variety of situations
that would allow each system to do it's thing:
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (Tiptronic trans.)
Following the start engine phase, the sequence of test conditions may
interchange.
The readiness code clearing routine will be discontinued whenever:
- Engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM
- Large fluctuations in throttle angle
- Road speed exceeds 60 MPH
============
Last edited by jackb911; Jun 5, 2009 at 03:08 PM.
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From: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
As usual, you guys are too good and this is a great place. I have even been PMed with the offer to own me an OBC II Scanner. Based on the above posting, I'll buy a scanner and apply Jack's sequence to set the readiness codes. Many thanks and I'll post my results.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Still here...
Chuck, one additional note to what Jack said. You may have to do the drive cycle twice.
I've found that sometimes it takes one cycle to reset all of the,. Other times it takes 2.
Same sequence, same roads, same careful attention. I even tried to repeat it and got similar results on the same car. No idea what the reason is...
Just don't be discouraged if it takes 2 cycles. A reader is needed so you know what took place. Or a trip to a smog station each time.
Still, better than spending $$$ for this!
I've found that sometimes it takes one cycle to reset all of the,. Other times it takes 2.
Same sequence, same roads, same careful attention. I even tried to repeat it and got similar results on the same car. No idea what the reason is...
Just don't be discouraged if it takes 2 cycles. A reader is needed so you know what took place. Or a trip to a smog station each time.
Still, better than spending $$$ for this!
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 3
From: Long Island, NY
Hi,
This is why you should NOT fiddle around with your car battery or reset all codes (for the goof) - just before you have an emissions/state inspection. The PO changed the battery on my car - but then didn't drive it. Net result - when I tried to get it inspected - the readiness monitors weren't set and I 'failed'.
Sooooo ...I've learned to be 'very careful' with the 'status' of the car whenever I see the sticker-date looming!
Several of the readiness monitors will set very quickly (i.e. misfire monitor) but others will take a VERY long time to set - because they are very 'picky'. ****The 'catalyst monitor' will be the very last one (of the 8) to set -- so be patient.****
Also, be very careful -- when you have 'failed' an inspection -- the NEXT time you go -- the catalyst monitor is stipulated as a "MUST be set" parameter.
So - since this is gonna be your SECOND test -- don't just drive around and be happy-as-a-clam that you got a 'bunch' of them to set. That's NOT going to cut it! You *MUST* have the catalyst monitor 'set' otherwise they'll fail u again. And when you fail a second time -- it's in the small print -- that you have to start forking over $$$ to have everything - associated with emissions - checked and brought up to exacting standards. That means your local mechanic is going to be sending his kids to college courtesy of YOU.
The above is for New York -- but I imagine CA is 'as bad'.
My advice is to get yourself a good OBD-ii code reader -- and NOT to go near any emissions/inspection station until YOU are absolutely sure that i) all 8 readiness monitors are 'set' (esp. the catalyst monitor!) and ii) that there are NO STORED (DTC) codes that are causing a CEL condition.
Cordially,
Gerry
This is why you should NOT fiddle around with your car battery or reset all codes (for the goof) - just before you have an emissions/state inspection. The PO changed the battery on my car - but then didn't drive it. Net result - when I tried to get it inspected - the readiness monitors weren't set and I 'failed'.
Sooooo ...I've learned to be 'very careful' with the 'status' of the car whenever I see the sticker-date looming!
Several of the readiness monitors will set very quickly (i.e. misfire monitor) but others will take a VERY long time to set - because they are very 'picky'. ****The 'catalyst monitor' will be the very last one (of the 8) to set -- so be patient.****
Also, be very careful -- when you have 'failed' an inspection -- the NEXT time you go -- the catalyst monitor is stipulated as a "MUST be set" parameter.
So - since this is gonna be your SECOND test -- don't just drive around and be happy-as-a-clam that you got a 'bunch' of them to set. That's NOT going to cut it! You *MUST* have the catalyst monitor 'set' otherwise they'll fail u again. And when you fail a second time -- it's in the small print -- that you have to start forking over $$$ to have everything - associated with emissions - checked and brought up to exacting standards. That means your local mechanic is going to be sending his kids to college courtesy of YOU.
The above is for New York -- but I imagine CA is 'as bad'.
My advice is to get yourself a good OBD-ii code reader -- and NOT to go near any emissions/inspection station until YOU are absolutely sure that i) all 8 readiness monitors are 'set' (esp. the catalyst monitor!) and ii) that there are NO STORED (DTC) codes that are causing a CEL condition.
Cordially,
Gerry
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,650
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From: Calgary, Alberta
This makes me really happy that I don't live in an emission testing state...Black993
But testing will never happen in this province.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,654
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From: Torrance, CA USA
I also have an Actron 9180, I think I got it for around $100.
I haven't used all of the features, but it definitely reads codes and allows you to reset them.
I am pretty certain you can check the status and verify if the readiness codes are set also, but I haven't used that feature yet.
I haven't used all of the features, but it definitely reads codes and allows you to reset them.
I am pretty certain you can check the status and verify if the readiness codes are set also, but I haven't used that feature yet.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,654
Likes: 93
From: Torrance, CA USA
