mbb993

I remember reading something about this but couldn't find the post. How do you work around the lift arm when changing the oil? Remobe the rocker panel first? Use a separate jack stand? Thanks.

Juha G

1. Remove the rocker panel
2. Lift the car up
3. Drain the oil
4. Clean up the mess... =)

Easy!

TheOtherEric

I try to position my lift arms so there not completely in the way, then use a funnel if needed.

But yeah, I always end up needing a lot of towels anyway.

FisterD

I don't remove the rocker panel. I use a piece of angle iron about 12" long as a trough to guide the oil into the pan. you still get a little spill but not too bad.

mbb993

Thanks. Yes, I havn't tried this yet but from what I recall the lift arm might get in the way of the drain. I remember someone recommended putting a tall jack stand at the jack point there and move the lift arm out of the way. I was unsure of this and it would be a somewhat "advanced lifting" technique for me.

mbb993

Agree with the lift acrobatics being scary for me as well.
I thought I saw one of the "great pumpkins" in you aviatar and garage pics.

My '95 KTM still runs great but needs a brake job that for some reason I never get the time for. Hmmm, think it might be related to another hobby using up the time?

I love my F150 4X4. It has a 5.4L V8. I trailer the car with a Trailex open trailer. No problem with electric brake contoller don't even know it's there. But have been thinking about getting an enclosed trailer. I think an F250 Diesel would be better. I am planning to "borrow" a friends trailer and car to test out my current setup to see if it's up to the task. Possibly this upcoming weekend at Sebring.

Mike J

Nothing scarey about it. I used a proper jack designed to be used for a car on the lift.

I have one of these:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/2-...-p/ht58001.htm

Ask anyone who comes over for a change, its very solid. I use it to support the corner of the car so I can swing the arm away. This gives full access for the drain pan, etc.

The jack is also very usefull to support the engine if you want to lower it (for example, to replace the chain cover gaskets). BTW, this is the way most mechanics do it (I got the advice for this from Viper Bob).

Cheers,

Mike

Garth S

The wide body cars have a small access cover below the reservoir drain, so the rocker panel is not touched: if I had a NB car, quite sure I would cut such a panel into the rocker ( ~2"x3") to avoid the fun of snapping fastners when removing the rocker.

Mike J

Hi Garth,

I have done dozens of oil changes on NB cars now, and have had zero issues with broken fasteners (of course, by saying this, I have not jinxed myself). I take out the underside screws, all the 10mm plastic nuts, the inside plastic nut, and "unhook" the rocker and pull it back towards the middle of the car, holding it there with a small bungee strap. I like this better than using the "hatch" because I can clean-up any mess inside the body panels with brake clean, etc. and not get it all over the rocker.

On a WB car, I do use the "hatch" just because its a bit less work.

Cheers,

Mike

striker27

I make an awful awful mess when I do mine!!!!

Mike J

In the right order, it should be pretty clean. If you want really clean, when you loosen a filter, poke a hole in it so the oil drains from the filter, that makes it really clean. I usually am too lazy, so I just pull the filters and use a bit of brake clean.

mbb993

Thanks Mike. That was the method I thought I read about here somewhere.
I guess it would be hard to remove the jack stand without putting the arm back in so it seems like a safe maneuver but I am only a novice at lift use here. The stand is inexpensive enought to give it a try for sure. I am really getting tired of cleaning up the mess after these oil changes.

Mike J

If you use this method, and have a good drain pain with a longer tube (so you can get the funnel close to the tank drain) you should get very little mess...!

Garth S

Hi Mike,
As you can tell, I've never done a NB car ..... but my inate instinct to cut, carve, and modify would likely catch me at midnight with a Dremel in hand ... carving a hatch

On the WB, the hatch cover and drain plug can be removed without swinging the lift arm ..... and if holding a large bucket up under the reservoir as the drain is threaded out, the process is splash, drip, and mess free.
Removing the RR wheel and forward fender liner for the large filter is the mess challenge - insert a rag under the thermostat housing and crack the filter free, just enough to keep it from leaking. Then, roll a plastic bag over the filter ( like a you know what ) .... and spin it off: the oil is contained by the bag - and rag if it springs a leak.
All in all, a mess free operation.

mbb993

Resurrecting this old post with another question.
Ok, new lift is finally installed. Here's some pics.

The RS side skirts are making access difficult. As you may be aware unlike the stock ones they are virtually impossible to remove/replace without breaking off the tabs. There is a small access hole for changing the oil but that hatch is almost completely covered by the lift arm.



Mike, what's the recommended safe/secure location for the jackstand support so I can get this arm out of the way?

Thanks.