logan2z

Once again, the site's search is letting me down. I'm sure this has been discussed before, but can someone outline the pros/cons of moving to the RS clutch from the 'standard' Porsche clutch? If one is going to be doing 100% street driving, does the RS clutch make any sense, and does the RS clutch only really make sense in combination with the LWF?

grwoolf

I've don't have any direct experience with them other than a test drive, but was looking at a car with one and did a bunch of research. This is what I can remember:

Cons:
1. Stalling problems (common on a 95) - tons of posts on this, but I don't think I'd do it on a 95
2. Less flywheel mass makes it a little easier to stall/bogg at clutch engagement
3. Possible metallic noise (heard is described as distint change in a dryer) - I didn't notice that on the car I drove

Pros:
1. Less flywheel mass makes the engine spin up a little quicker
2. Lower cost
3. Lower weight

Mark in Baltimore

Not all '95's have stalling issues on the street. At first mine did not, then it did, now it's fine. Who knows how it'll be next year. It might be a hassle for a daily driver, but for a weekend driver or track toy, I would do it on a '95 in a heartbeat.

viperbob

About 80% of the '95s will be fine. The car adapts and everything is OK. First, make sure that the ISV is in good working order. Then if ALL else fails, you can adjust the ISV valve a little, or simply crack open the throttle (there is still an adjustment there).

Van1

I think that the OP is addressing the clutch disk itself and not necessarily the LWF although he does mention that. At least that is how I understand it.

I purchased a 996 GT3 clutch disk to be used in conjunction with a LWF. From what I understand, that is the latest and greatest clutch disk one can use with the LWF. I'll find out by next week after I install it this weekend.

icelatte

I found the RS clutch to be more on/off - very grabby compared to the stock clutch but then that one was worn already.

I think you're asking about replacing clutch only, right? If you're replacing clutch, the flywheel needs to be inspected anyway which leads down the road of DMF or LWF.

I don't know of any particular advantage other than the feel.

MrRoboto

Curious, how does one adjust the ISV, and how does one determine if the ISV needs to be replaced?

mongrelcat

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...djustable.html

MrRoboto

Thanks! Well there you have it, a helpful tip towards the rs clutch/flywheel.

gary11

Ive got rs clutch and flywheel,bit more bite ,bit heavier on the pedal,bit of transmission noise at idle and a bit thrashy at low rpm and speed,sounds more competition orientated than stock,seems to pick up off the throttle better but thats due to no heavy dual mass flywheel,HTH,
G

viperbob

They tend to make a LOT of noise with stock gear oil, and the Swepcos, Redlines and such. With Mobil 1, you get rid of about 90% of the noise.

gary11

what oil would you reccomend for the gearbox then?
cheers G

David in LA

Unless you are also going with the lighter flywheel I wouldn't bother with the RS clutch and just put in a standard one. What are you hoping to get by going with the RS clutch?

AtlJimK

Mine definitely has the change in the dryer sound. Doesn't bother me. More sensitive than standard but feels great.

Van1

I'm gonna guess that he'll recommend Mobil Delvac 75w-90 synthetic gear oil. That is what I am using based on recs from Steve W and others.