jaholmes

There is a 96 993 that I am looking at with 80k miles. Price seems pretty good and has decent service records. Lot's of the little things have been fixed - plugs, plug wires, shocks, door check.

It had a clutch at 40k but not at 80k, but it doesn't feel right. Also, it's not smooth shifting from 1st to 2nd. That sounds like a trans rebuild to me, what would that run $2k.

I think a top-end is in it's future and I know that's a $10k bill.

Over all the car seems solid. Not an abused car but a good 'ol daily driver. I'm sure a PPI would reveal a lot.

csertich

Got to get a PPI. There are lots of nice 993's for sale now at good prices that might not have these potential issues.

Good luck. Looking for the right car is a blast. Take your time.
chuck

black ice

Totally impossible to tell given usage, agree on the ppi. I think you need to trust your gut if it doesn't feel like your 97. Good article in Excellence last year on stuff to check but the list was long. The short list I'd be checking if I had an hour to decide.
good engaging clutch with no balkiness
power steering rack leaks
good shock feel on the road
ALL ac and heat functions work
No CEL issues with those air holes you late model people have
Look HARD for any damage to body or chassis/undercarriage

My guide would be cost of repair, that's why I think of those things. Plus they're unknown quantities.

I agree on budgeting well for repairs, but I would not consider it a given that the heads need rebuilding. Good PPI should answer that question.

dave

jaholmes

Great point. I will dig up the article on the 993. Also, you hit something that was hard to pin down, it'd didn't pull like my 97, so i'm thinking something isn't quite right.

Power steering rack has been replaced with a pep-boys reman'd rack...Not good, but I did not feel any issues.

The CEL is on the list and I asked for them to put a ODBII Scanner on it to show me the computer was online and working. I didn't want it to throw a SAI CEL after the computer warmed up.

The goal is to use it as a track car. Not a clubracer, but a good track car. So if the price is right it may work out. I'm not in that big of a hurry and I will do a PPI if I move forward including taking it to a body shop.

I have done a lot of work on my C4S including dropping the engine and doing the clutch. So I am ok with those things but a top end I will have to pay for.

hddude

Did I miss something? Is it normal to replace the clutch on a 993 every 40k miles?

kr994

I recently bought a 97 C2S with 81k miles.
Here is the PPI checklist I used (Excellence #151, Nov '96).

ELECTRICAL
• A/C condenser/oil-cooler fan resistors
• Alarm remote update
• Oil & A/C cooling fan relays
ENGINE
• Secondary air-injection codes
• Check valves for secondary air-injection
• Valve-guide wear
• Lower valve-cover gasket leaks
• Distributor caps, rotors
• Vacuum-distribution port
• Drive-belt tension sensor
• Spark-plug wire cracking
• Engine pan removal (high engine temps)
• Chain-tensioner bridges cracking
• Distributor-drive belt
GEARBOX/CLUTCH
• Flywheel-seal leaking
• Gearbox selector-shaft seal leaking
• Slave cylinder creaking
• Slave cylinder hose leaking
STEERING/BRAKES/SUSPENSION
• Steering-rack boots tearing
• Steering rack leaks
» Rear control-arm-mounted CV joint boot protection covers
• Monroe shocks (all not desirable)
• Steering rack update bracket for 18-inch rims
• Front control arm bushings cracking
• Rear caster adjusters in correct position
EMISSIONS
• OBD-II trip completion with smog test
FUEL SYSTEM
• Fuel cap seal update
BODY
• Headlight bulb retaining clip update
• Third brake light wiring (through rear window)
• Front bumper lower protection bar
• Outer windshield seals creaking?
• Rear wing accordion torn?
• Noisy rear wing cable/drive mechanism
• Rear wing mechanism
• Driver's door stop mounting on B-pillar
• Delaminating windshield at antenna entry
• Rear fender rock guards fading
• Air bag/horn-retaining pad bracket
INTERIOR
• Inside temp, sensor motor (fault code 45)
• Center console rubber pad missing?
*Climate control computer/control
*Ashtray stays open
OTHER
- Owner manuals
- Radio code card
- Factory tool kit
- Spare tire and Inflator kit

I did skip the leakdown test as my car had recent top-end rebuild completed (it was $5K not $10K job). Orginal, 12 years old clutch, feels smooth and solid...

Streetfighter

Jim, on the 964's the clutch should last between 50-70k miles. All depends on how it was driven of course. In terms of the top end rebuild it may just be worn valve guides, and an adjustment might restore some of the power. The gearbox's synchros in second gear need some work. You maybe onto a decent track candidate.

NP993

X2

My 993 has 101,000 miles on the original clutch. It probably needs 1) the system bled, and 2) the correct gear oil. Then shifting and the clutch would feel normal.

NP993

I don't think any of this is good advice. A 911 clutch lasts only 50-70K miles if it's abused or used regularly on the track. There are no valve adjustments on 993's, and regardless, the valves on an earlier 911 being a little out of adjustment has very, very little effect on power. And the gearbox simply should not need to be rebuilt at 80K unless half those miles were on the track. A gear oil change with the proper fluid is step #1 before considering drastic work.

Streetfighter

Noah, I stand corrected. My apologies, my mind tends to think of the 964 valves 15k adjustments. Your right the 993 does not need that regular maintenance. In terms of the clutch and gearbox maybe it is as simple as changing the gear oil. Would that stop a crunch when shifting into 2nd gear? I to would hope to have a clutch last beyond 50-70k miles, but lets be honest when a sports car is being tracked and driven hard on the street it makes it hard to get up to that kind of mileage and not have it start slipping. Not everyone drives a manual correctly.

jaholmes

I know it depends on how the owner drives the car but when I saw it had a clutch at 40k and the way it feels now, I was thinking it's probably due for another.

It's really not a big deal to me since I would be putting a LWFW and RS clutch on it anyways. Just want to know I can pick my projects without diving right in.

jaholmes

This helps. I did finally replace my factory mystery fill gear oil and things cleared up. Still when cold it's a little stiff. But this 96 seemed a little different. Some other people have driven the car and said it pops out of gear at a stop with the clutch in.

Fahrer

Popping out of gear sounds like worn synchronizers......