Shell Rotella Synth 5/40 ...thoughts/experience??
03-23-2009, 12:41 AM
#1
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Shell Rotella Synth 5/40 ...thoughts/experience??
Hey all,
One second of background: I have been an avid user of M1 15/50 for years and about 70kmiles (now at 120k on the odo), and after much reading (always a dangerous thing
), I have decided that for my all-weather street car (in SoCal which gets down to a "chilly" 40deg up to 100 in summer), I'd go with a thinner oil.
I was "going" to buy the M1 5w/40 (truck/diesel) at Walmart today, but then noticed it carries only an SL rating. After all those monster threads/discussions on oil we've had in the past, I recall the "buy the latest spec" recommendation; so I passed on it knowing that we're currently at "SM" rating as the latest. Which brings me to this question:
How's the Shell Rotella Synthetic in 5w/40 for the 993s? How's the zddp content, and other general factors for general street-only daily driving. I "could" go with the M1 0w/40, but that's not available in the large jugs, so it's a bit more money with 10qts to buy. There's the tip off: I am looking for cost-effective oil that's comperable in cost to the M1 15/50 I have been accustomed to buying at Wallymart.
Your thoughts, especially those based on any readings, findings, and experience, are most appreciated! Thanks!!
Edward
One second of background: I have been an avid user of M1 15/50 for years and about 70kmiles (now at 120k on the odo), and after much reading (always a dangerous thing
), I have decided that for my all-weather street car (in SoCal which gets down to a "chilly" 40deg up to 100 in summer), I'd go with a thinner oil.I was "going" to buy the M1 5w/40 (truck/diesel) at Walmart today, but then noticed it carries only an SL rating. After all those monster threads/discussions on oil we've had in the past, I recall the "buy the latest spec" recommendation; so I passed on it knowing that we're currently at "SM" rating as the latest. Which brings me to this question:
How's the Shell Rotella Synthetic in 5w/40 for the 993s? How's the zddp content, and other general factors for general street-only daily driving. I "could" go with the M1 0w/40, but that's not available in the large jugs, so it's a bit more money with 10qts to buy. There's the tip off: I am looking for cost-effective oil that's comperable in cost to the M1 15/50 I have been accustomed to buying at Wallymart.
Your thoughts, especially those based on any readings, findings, and experience, are most appreciated! Thanks!!
Edward
03-23-2009, 02:56 AM
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I still use M1 15-50... especially with your temps Edward... The latest formulation has 1300 ZDDP just like the good old one according to their website. If it ain't broke...
03-23-2009, 10:27 AM
#4
03-23-2009, 11:54 AM
#5
Drifting
I have some of the same concerns as Edward. I ran the Amsoil 15w40 last summer but it's not as good as their 20W50 oil which I just changed over to. What is the min. recommended starting temperature for 15/50 or 20/50 oils? I worry about the 20W50 for cold starts down to 32-40 degrees F.
03-23-2009, 12:52 PM
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Amosoil, Royal Purple, Redline are the only fluids I recommend to be used in the Ferraris. So why should your Porsches get anything less. For the simple reason that the above mentioned brands are group IV synthetic, which means they are 100% made from synthetic stock material unlike other brands which is only partial.
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03-23-2009, 01:37 PM
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Great feedback, guys ...keep it coming!
Yeah, Danny, I understand that the M1 is good stuff, but I am simply concerned about the a 15W's "starting weight" and the requisite wear, especially in colder seasons (even in SoCal, while no by any means extreme, 15w has the consistencey of sludge at 49 degrees). So I am looking for a better year-round alternative.
I totally understand what Robin is saying, but I cringe at the cost of those oils. OK, maybe one can say that I am being penny wise and pound foolish, but I doubt it. I am not by any means trying to skimp on the cost of oil changes, just trying not to pay through the nose and still get good protection (that is stated and documented, of course). So while these primo oils certainly offer primo protection for severe conditions, tooling around on the street is hardly taxing. In fact, starting my car in the morning just may be the toughest thing it has to go through, which brings me to the quest for a thinner cold pour weight.
Hey Stealth, you ever find any number on the Rotella Synth?
OTOH, if someone has compelling evidence that the M1 15w/50 is perfectly fine at my "cold" temps, then I'll just shut up and go back to Wallymart
Edward
Yeah, Danny, I understand that the M1 is good stuff, but I am simply concerned about the a 15W's "starting weight" and the requisite wear, especially in colder seasons (even in SoCal, while no by any means extreme, 15w has the consistencey of sludge at 49 degrees). So I am looking for a better year-round alternative.
I totally understand what Robin is saying, but I cringe at the cost of those oils. OK, maybe one can say that I am being penny wise and pound foolish, but I doubt it. I am not by any means trying to skimp on the cost of oil changes, just trying not to pay through the nose and still get good protection (that is stated and documented, of course). So while these primo oils certainly offer primo protection for severe conditions, tooling around on the street is hardly taxing. In fact, starting my car in the morning just may be the toughest thing it has to go through, which brings me to the quest for a thinner cold pour weight.
Hey Stealth, you ever find any number on the Rotella Synth?
OTOH, if someone has compelling evidence that the M1 15w/50 is perfectly fine at my "cold" temps, then I'll just shut up and go back to Wallymart
Edward
03-23-2009, 01:42 PM
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Edward, if you change your oil between 5-7k miles. Or every other track event then going with Group IV may be waste of money.
Another option I have bee hearing a lot is to use the Mobil 1 off the shelf and add a redline break in additive to give the extra protection that's missing from the new Mobil 1 fluids.
Another option I have bee hearing a lot is to use the Mobil 1 off the shelf and add a redline break in additive to give the extra protection that's missing from the new Mobil 1 fluids.
03-23-2009, 01:45 PM
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Edward, if you change your oil between 5-7k miles. Or every other track event then going with Group IV may be waste of money.
Another option I have bee hearing a lot is to use the Mobil 1 off the shelf and add a redline break in additive to give the extra protection that's missing from the new Mobil 1 fluids.
Another option I have bee hearing a lot is to use the Mobil 1 off the shelf and add a redline break in additive to give the extra protection that's missing from the new Mobil 1 fluids.
Yup, I change at about 6-7K miles. And she has long since been retired from track duty to full-commuter status. So year-round weather protection, primarily at startup, is my concern ...along with the proper "numbers" with zinc and the like, of course. Thanks, man!
Edward
03-23-2009, 05:18 PM
#12
I was "going" to buy the M1 5w/40 (truck/diesel) at Walmart today, but then noticed it carries only an SL rating. After all those monster threads/discussions on oil we've had in the past, I recall the "buy the latest spec" recommendation; so I passed on it knowing that we're currently at "SM" rating as the latest. Which brings me to this question:
How's the Shell Rotella Synthetic in 5w/40 for the 993s? How's the zddp content, and other general factors for general street-only daily driving. I "could" go with the M1 0w/40, but that's not available in the large jugs, so it's a bit more money with 10qts to buy. There's the tip off: I am looking for cost-effective oil that's comperable in cost to the M1 15/50 I have been accustomed to buying at Wallymart.
How's the Shell Rotella Synthetic in 5w/40 for the 993s? How's the zddp content, and other general factors for general street-only daily driving. I "could" go with the M1 0w/40, but that's not available in the large jugs, so it's a bit more money with 10qts to buy. There's the tip off: I am looking for cost-effective oil that's comperable in cost to the M1 15/50 I have been accustomed to buying at Wallymart.
I did add a 1/2 oz of Crane Cams Super Lube http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...91#Post1139791 per gallon jug to boost up the Zinc/Phos, my next oil analysis will confirm if I'm headed in the right direction.
I like the thinner 5w40 oils. On my 356's the engines crank over faster when cold (important on a 6 volt car), and the oil pressure builds up faster.
03-23-2009, 05:54 PM
#13
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Rotella is a "fleet" oil, it's made to stay in cars/trucks for 30,000mi. They also have a very high additive package. It is a very underrated oil.
Having said that, I only use Redline & Amsoil, both are 100% synth using PAO (expensive) base stock. I also find my cars run cooler, produce more HP & every time I get my oil tested, it's still running perfect!
For anyone who is really concerned about ZDDP, Redline makes a ZDDP additive that you can add to any oil.
03-23-2009, 09:01 PM
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Hey 356,
Thanks for the link!
Brant, Stealth,
Thanks for the feedback on the Shell. Just looking for the best cost-effective oil for my purpose. So buying an oil additive defeats the purpose in my mind. If the the Rotella (or the M1 5/40 TDT stuff, for that matter) does the job well, sounds like the Rotella Synth may just be my next oil since it's an SM. Thanks, all!!
Edward
Thanks for the link!
Brant, Stealth,
Thanks for the feedback on the Shell. Just looking for the best cost-effective oil for my purpose. So buying an oil additive defeats the purpose in my mind. If the the Rotella (or the M1 5/40 TDT stuff, for that matter) does the job well, sounds like the Rotella Synth may just be my next oil since it's an SM. Thanks, all!!
Edward
03-23-2009, 10:26 PM
#15
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SM or SL is fine for a HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) . The the newer CJ-4 oils will still have approx 1200 PPM of zinc and 1000 PPM phosphorus. And I would not get too hung up on the SM/SL arguments. Sometimes it's the additives you can't see that do the best job of protecting! Use them with confidence, I've got plenty of UOA's that look very good with HDEO's.