PPI found issues on C4S
#32
My car just turned 50k mi and I am having all the work you mentioned in this thread (and then some!) done on her.
Why? (seems like the obvious question to many people here)
Because it is the right car and there is nothing like having a fully sorted example of a 993.
Why? (seems like the obvious question to many people here)
Because it is the right car and there is nothing like having a fully sorted example of a 993.
#34
Remember that this is a used car after all, nothing more than that .... despite how much we admire and respect them: visions of a $15K write down because of an oil drip would have me driving off into the sunset were I the seller.
The shift seal, as Andreas said, is no big deal .... live with it for a month and put on that 1000 miles: the leak may stop as the shaft is used again. If not, once in the air, I know that even a hack like me can replace it in an hour .... and its a $15 seal.
The leak around cyl #4 could be oil migration from those classic leakers - dried valve cover gaskets: In the worst case, it is the jug to block interface as the PPI suggests .... strange perhaps as there is no pressure there. Regardless, in this worst case IMO, all the owner would be responsible for is pulling the valve train and then head/cyl #4 .... for whatever that costs: while it may be advised by some to do all sorts of tricks while in there ( guides, clutch, SAI passages, etc), they are not at all related to that oil drip .... and are therefore discretionary to the buyer - not the seller.
The shift seal, as Andreas said, is no big deal .... live with it for a month and put on that 1000 miles: the leak may stop as the shaft is used again. If not, once in the air, I know that even a hack like me can replace it in an hour .... and its a $15 seal.
The leak around cyl #4 could be oil migration from those classic leakers - dried valve cover gaskets: In the worst case, it is the jug to block interface as the PPI suggests .... strange perhaps as there is no pressure there. Regardless, in this worst case IMO, all the owner would be responsible for is pulling the valve train and then head/cyl #4 .... for whatever that costs: while it may be advised by some to do all sorts of tricks while in there ( guides, clutch, SAI passages, etc), they are not at all related to that oil drip .... and are therefore discretionary to the buyer - not the seller.
#35
Remember that this is a used car after all, nothing more than that .... despite how much we admire and respect them: visions of a $15K write down because of an oil drip would have me driving off into the sunset were I the seller.
The shift seal, as Andreas said, is no big deal .... live with it for a month and put on that 1000 miles: the leak may stop as the shaft is used again. If not, once in the air, I know that even a hack like me can replace it in an hour .... and its a $15 seal.
The leak around cyl #4 could be oil migration from those classic leakers - dried valve cover gaskets: In the worst case, it is the jug to block interface as the PPI suggests .... strange perhaps as there is no pressure there. Regardless, in this worst case IMO, all the owner would be responsible for is pulling the valve train and then head/cyl #4 .... for whatever that costs: while it may be advised by some to do all sorts of tricks while in there ( guides, clutch, SAI passages, etc), they are not at all related to that oil drip .... and are therefore discretionary to the buyer - not the seller.
The shift seal, as Andreas said, is no big deal .... live with it for a month and put on that 1000 miles: the leak may stop as the shaft is used again. If not, once in the air, I know that even a hack like me can replace it in an hour .... and its a $15 seal.
The leak around cyl #4 could be oil migration from those classic leakers - dried valve cover gaskets: In the worst case, it is the jug to block interface as the PPI suggests .... strange perhaps as there is no pressure there. Regardless, in this worst case IMO, all the owner would be responsible for is pulling the valve train and then head/cyl #4 .... for whatever that costs: while it may be advised by some to do all sorts of tricks while in there ( guides, clutch, SAI passages, etc), they are not at all related to that oil drip .... and are therefore discretionary to the buyer - not the seller.
The 15k I mentioned was just a negotiating point. I was paying above the current market to get a car with the options I wanted and in perfect condition. Most people would probably think I was overpaying with my original offer on the car. The seller is a nice guy that has been up front with me on all items. I am just looking for a fair deal for both sides.
For the minimalist repair that you outlined, what would estimate for the price of repair?
Once again, thanks to everyone for providing input.
#36
Here is my thought, why not buy a standard 993 C2 look for a '95 with some miles on it, maybe 60-80k. Make some upgrades here or there, but overall have the 993 experience without having the headache of a depreciating car like the C4S. And not to mention the premium that you are going to have to pay over a C4 or C2.
#38
It doesn't say a rebuild is needed...it just makes sense to do the top end rebuild if you are going to have to dismantle the engine to fix the seal. He said it is dripping on the header/heat exchanger. That is more than "weeping".
#39
#40
I might be a really bad negotitor, so a $15k write down might still be ok in this market
The 15k I mentioned was just a negotiating point. I was paying above the current market to get a car with the options I wanted and in perfect condition. Most people would probably think I was overpaying with my original offer on the car. The seller is a nice guy that has been up front with me on all items. I am just looking for a fair deal for both sides.
For the minimalist repair that you outlined, what would estimate for the price of repair?
Once again, thanks to everyone for providing input.
The 15k I mentioned was just a negotiating point. I was paying above the current market to get a car with the options I wanted and in perfect condition. Most people would probably think I was overpaying with my original offer on the car. The seller is a nice guy that has been up front with me on all items. I am just looking for a fair deal for both sides.
For the minimalist repair that you outlined, what would estimate for the price of repair?
Once again, thanks to everyone for providing input.
Ok, so now the story on this car is written, from a negotiation stand point think of it like this, the seller most likely will be forced to fix the car, lower the price for the next guy who gets a PPI or just push it back in the garage and let it sit, so in away he's stuck. If it was me I'd make my offer for the 15K less. He says no, then walk.
#41
There is no evidence the car needs $15K in repairs.
Save yourself the hassle and buy a car with more miles. No point in buying one with a premium for low miles and then cranking then on the car.
If I were the seller, I would drive the car for a while and then re-evaluate the "issues". If they exist, I would deal with them. If they don't, the next PPI won't reflect them.
Save yourself the hassle and buy a car with more miles. No point in buying one with a premium for low miles and then cranking then on the car.
If I were the seller, I would drive the car for a while and then re-evaluate the "issues". If they exist, I would deal with them. If they don't, the next PPI won't reflect them.
#42
There is no evidence the car needs $15K in repairs.
Save yourself the hassle and buy a car with more miles. No point in buying one with a premium for low miles and then cranking then on the car.
If I were the seller, I would drive the car for a while and then re-evaluate the "issues". If they exist, I would deal with them. If they don't, the next PPI won't reflect them.
Save yourself the hassle and buy a car with more miles. No point in buying one with a premium for low miles and then cranking then on the car.
If I were the seller, I would drive the car for a while and then re-evaluate the "issues". If they exist, I would deal with them. If they don't, the next PPI won't reflect them.
I realize that this is a 11+ year old car and will have issues, but most importantly I think she is a thing of beauty. I smile every time I see a 993.
#44
Sounds like the PPI is pretty irrelevant. Make a lowball offer if you like--maybe he'll take it. But to try to get $9-15k off based on that as a justification? The current market is the justification, not an oil leak on an air cooled Porsche. Why play games?
#45
You might want to send a PM to 'pastpob'. He was selling a very nice, mid-mileage (40K) silver/black C4S with MA Shaw turbo wing a few months ago. His ad was posted here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...low-miles.html
I'm not sure if it's still for sale, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Not white, but a very nice car nonetheless.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...low-miles.html
I'm not sure if it's still for sale, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Not white, but a very nice car nonetheless.