Well I need some advice prior to making my final decision of the '98 C4S with 20k miles I am considering purchasing.

I followed the golden rule of having a good PPI performed (@ Stuttgart Autotech) and so far two issues have been identified (the final report will be ready in a few hours).

Issue 1) Shift shaft seal leak

Issue 2) Leak on the right side cylinder base that drips onto the heat exchanger

I was willing to pay a premium for a 20k mile '98 c4s, but with these issue what should I do to the price? Issue 2 will cost about $9k and probably another $1k for issue 1.

Any thoughts?

 

There are two other nice C4S at Park Place in Dallas...$9k for an oil leak? Seems high.

 

I was told that the top end would need rebuilt & while in there replace the valve guides....

I was hoping to get a '98 with an Aero II factory installed kit. The speed yellow at Park Place is nice, but I already have a speed yellow '98 C4S. White or red are at the top of my list, but that special blue that Seinfeld gets on his p-cars would be my first choice.

 

20k miles and needs a top end rebuild??

Has the odometer been tampered with? This does not make sense, you might want to get a second opinion.

 

At 20k miles I was not expecting to find these types of issues, but that is why I went with the PPI. I am about 1800 miles from the car, so I was willing to pay for a professional to review the car.

The car could go for another 10k miles, but oil hitting on the heat exchanger risks starting a fire. I was looking for a former garage queen that I could actually introduce to the road (1000 miles a month).

With low miles on a 11 yr old car, are there some common risk areas?

 

Sorry, but I have never heard of a top end needing a rebuild at 20K and even if it did, isn't 9K way out of line for a price?

 

That would have to be one hell of an oil leak! Drips do not cause fires, not even close.

 

20K miles on an 11-year-old car... Those kinds of problems are to be expected from a car that has sat for extended periods of time. Obviously the seals are rotted and dried out. As far as fire starting from oil hitting the HE, I've never heard of that. Unless it constantly seeps through the gaskets. Even then it's a stretch. But it will produce plenty of smoke in the wheel well

 

Just smoke? I am not claiming to be an expert.

I am expecting the final report to be emailed and I will clarify my post based on the reports wording.

What is the cost of repairing a shift shaft seal on C4S?

 

Raise you hand if you've had them into a sub-30K engine. Anyone? Used to be quite the common additional repair from a failed chain tensioner job. And yes, the guides usually looked iffy, at best.

Now I'm not saying you go to that extent on THIS car and THIS leak. But factory guides of any vintage are substandard. If it were as easy and cheap as changing brake pads, it would be considered mandatory right off the bat.

 

A shift shaft seal should be as easy as disconnecting the shift rod, removing the failed seal and tapping in a new one. $1,000??? You're kidding, right?

$9,000 for issue #2 seems sky-high as well.


Andreas

 

Also, you can have a leak in a car that has recently been driven for the first time in a while and that leak can go away as the seals and gaskets become wet with oil again.

 

The price on the shift shaft seal was my swag. I price on issue #2 was an upper end rebuild, machined and new valve guides. I would obviously need the exact items that would be performed prior to any work, but I was just shocked to hear about this on a 993 that just hit 20k miles. I was willing pay a premium for a new condition car, but if it needs all this work I might be better off buying a higher milage car that has already had the top end rebuild and has the new valve guides.

With the broken gears that happen on the odometer, I just get worried that perhaps something funny went on in this car's past. It is a two owner vehicle, for what that is worth.

I am just so bummed and confused on what I should do.

 

OK...from the PPI Report:

1) only "supply voltage" faults stored - common with vehicles that have lost charge due to low/ no use
2) "bullseye" impact mark on R side fog light, door contact switch shorts out intermittently
3) brake fluid passes chemical test but reserve side of reservoir darker (recently flushed?)
4) LR tire tread depth greater than other three
5) seepage at tailshaft/shift seal area
6) oil level too high, oil leave at cyl. 4 mating surface between head and cylinder
7) steering wheel vibrates heavily at 55+ mph
8) cigarette lighter does not stay in when activated

compression readings: 220 222 223 222 220 220
80 brake pad % front
90 brake pad % rear

What are your thoughts? and thanks for your input!

 

If you still want the car use the PPI to renegotiate. If they won't, then you have a decision to make. There are certainly a few issues I wouldn't expect with a low mileage car.

ps why didn't they do a cylinder leak down test?