Notices
993 Forum 1995-1998
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

very odd suspension behavior ('95 C4)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-03-2009, 10:39 AM
  #46  
clipstone
Instructor
 
clipstone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Stoke on Trent, UK
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Any diagnostic on what the cause was yet?

Or have you taken my approach and just buried your head in the sand and tried to pretend it never happened
Old 04-03-2009, 11:01 AM
  #47  
trophy
Race Car
 
trophy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Calgary...Under my car... :)
Posts: 3,918
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by AOW162435
I wonder if the C4 can be driven without front axles? Or does the outer stub keep the wheel bearings in place?


Andreas
The outer stub keeps the bearings in place, you would definatly get a wobble if you drove without the front axles....

What sort of wheel weights have been used on your car? There are places around here that use beads inside the tire for balancing, centrifical force and heat keep them in place, when the tires are cold they tend to pool and throw balance off. That combined with some moisture could cause an issue.

Have you had a puncture at all? was it repaired with an aerosol patch repair?

Just some thoughts......
Old 04-03-2009, 01:17 PM
  #48  
TomF
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TomF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,746
Received 153 Likes on 132 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Thats been successful for me as well, but I've elected not to plug the tires to keep THIS particular "problem" from recurring.

I deplore doing things twice,...
+1 Especially if you run the old Dunlop run-flat tires for the 959.
Old 04-03-2009, 01:28 PM
  #49  
TomF
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TomF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,746
Received 153 Likes on 132 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by burton
I had similar symptoms. At certain speeds if I hit a rut or pothole or followed the grooves in the freeway the car would shake and the steering wheel would wobble. Getting on the brakes hard would stop the shaking. Diagnosed as bad tie rods. Replaced the tie rods and aligned and I haven't had a problem in 1,000+ miles.
I would place money on tie-rods. At 80K, they very well are starting or could be nearly shot.

Putting in a new set is great way to tighten up the front end for less than $250. Money well spent, regardless of whether it cures your problem.

Just another thought, have you checked the torque on the axle nuts? The are supposed to be torqued to something huge like over 300 ft-lbs... If they get loose, or are not re-torqued properly after a c-joint service, they can cause really strange symptoms.

I had an intermittent squeak and slight shake that I couldn't diagnose a while back. It turns out that the morons that installed my suspension only torqued the axle nut on one side to 250 when they replaced a cv joint boot. (They messed up a bunch of other things, but that is a different story.)

Just a thought...
Old 04-03-2009, 11:13 PM
  #50  
gtroth
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
gtroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by trophy
...What sort of wheel weights have been used on your car? There are places around here that use beads inside the tire for balancing, centrifical force and heat keep them in place, when the tires are cold they tend to pool and throw balance off. That combined with some moisture could cause an issue.

Have you had a puncture at all? was it repaired with an aerosol patch repair?

Just some thoughts......
standard stick-on wheel weights, no punctures

Originally Posted by TomF
I would place money on tie-rods. At 80K, they very well are starting or could be nearly shot.

Putting in a new set is great way to tighten up the front end for less than $250. Money well spent, regardless of whether it cures your problem.

Just another thought, have you checked the torque on the axle nuts? The are supposed to be torqued to something huge like over 300 ft-lbs... If they get loose, or are not re-torqued properly after a c-joint service, they can cause really strange symptoms.

I had an intermittent squeak and slight shake that I couldn't diagnose a while back. It turns out that the morons that installed my suspension only torqued the axle nut on one side to 250 when they replaced a cv joint boot. (They messed up a bunch of other things, but that is a different story.)

Just a thought...
Yeah, certainly seems to be pointing toward the tie rods, doesn't it? Trying to decide whether to do the job myself and how far to go (shocks, etc.).
And thanks for the tip on the axle nuts. At 300 ft-lbs, I'm not even sure I know how to check that one.
Old 04-04-2009, 04:20 PM
  #51  
TomF
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TomF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,746
Received 153 Likes on 132 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by gtroth
standard stick-on wheel weights, no punctures



Yeah, certainly seems to be pointing toward the tie rods, doesn't it? Trying to decide whether to do the job myself and how far to go (shocks, etc.).
And thanks for the tip on the axle nuts. At 300 ft-lbs, I'm not even sure I know how to check that one.
Most torque wrenches don't even go much past 300, and IIRC, it is something like 330...

What we did was take it all the way to the limit of the wrench, and then grabbed a breaker bar and went a bit further by feel. It is amazing how high these nuts have to be torqued. Probably not the nuts, but if the CV boots or axles have been replaced at any time, then it would be best to eliminate the nuts as a culprit.

Hope you find a solution- let us know how it turns out.
Old 04-25-2009, 12:01 AM
  #52  
gtroth
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
gtroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Little update - happened again - nice warm day, new summer tires on, so not ice, not tires.
Planning to replace tie rods.
Old 04-25-2009, 06:38 PM
  #53  
burton
Rennlist Member
 
burton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

What caused the vibration? Did you notice the vibration after you hit a pothole or expansion joint? Where in CT are you?
Old 04-26-2009, 01:26 AM
  #54  
bart1
Race Car
 
bart1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I knew it wasn't snow... :/
Old 04-26-2009, 05:28 PM
  #55  
gtroth
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
gtroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by burton
What caused the vibration? Did you notice the vibration after you hit a pothole or expansion joint? Where in CT are you?
Nothing causes it, it just starts on smooth pavement at highway speed. It's ever happened after hitting any kind of bump.
Old 04-26-2009, 07:02 PM
  #56  
burton
Rennlist Member
 
burton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I had similar symptoms and it was tie rods. I drive on I-95 in CT a lot and the ruts in the center or right lanes from truck traffic caused vibrations. Any decent sized pothole on secondary roads would also do the trick.
Old 04-27-2009, 02:56 PM
  #57  
TomF
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TomF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,746
Received 153 Likes on 132 Posts
Default

I am not trying to sound like the poster-boy for tie-rod replacement, (at least the rubber ends) but they are a wear item and seem to be shot at between 60k- 80k. This depends on the roads, the driver and the suspension and wheel/tire setup.

I for one will be changing them out on any 993 that I own in the future at around the 60k mark. It is a cheap upgrade to get back steering feel.

Hope you get the issue sorted out.
Old 05-20-2009, 10:39 PM
  #58  
gtroth
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
gtroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

---inching toward replacing the tie rods (been real busy, and car's been fairly well behaved - acted up only once more a week or so ago). Started a separate thread for the remove and replace if interested:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ml#post6584315

Cheers.
Old 08-25-2009, 11:14 PM
  #59  
gtroth
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
gtroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Well, it's not the tie rods, although the new ones did keep the oscillation down do a just perceptable shimmy that would come and go. Until today - hot, some stop and go traffic, and it broke into one of its bad shakes after ~20 minutes on the rode.
Pulled over like usual, did the walk around like usual expecting to see nothing, like usual.
Guess what? Front right brake was smoking. Let it cool down for several minutes and drove off. No shimmy. Looked at it again ~10 minutes later - no smoke. ~15 minutes home. Now drive the white car for a while, I guess.

So, sticky caliper?
Old 08-25-2009, 11:18 PM
  #60  
AOW162435
Seared
Rennlist Member
 
AOW162435's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 16,777
Received 418 Likes on 233 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by gtroth
So, sticky caliper?
Sounds like it. That may have been your issue all along. Time for a proper caliper rebuild.


Andreas


Quick Reply: very odd suspension behavior ('95 C4)



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:14 PM.