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tie rods time

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Old 05-20-2009, 10:34 PM
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gtroth
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Default tie rods time

...I've had some issues of intermittent shimmy in the steering - pretty severe, like I'm getting a flat. Stop the car and drive off and it's perfectly fine for weeks at a time. Full story is here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ior-95-c4.html

In sum, tie rods seems like the most likely culprit so I'm going after those. Some questions -
1) I'll replace 2, 3, and 5, both sides. Should I replace 13 ($21.25ea at Pelican)?
2) Any tips that I won't find in the DIY?
Many thanks.
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Old 05-20-2009, 11:41 PM
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chris walrod
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that washer is reusable and shouldnt need replacing.
Old 05-21-2009, 06:08 AM
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viperbob
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Those parts should do it for you...
Old 05-21-2009, 11:01 AM
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Garth S
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Before replacing anything, I would jack up the front end and check everthing for torque if it's bolted - and for excessive play in the tie rods , wheel bearings, and dare I say, wheel nuts.
It takes two to check tie rods, one to wiggle the wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock - and one to lay two fingers & thumb lightly across either joint: any wear can easily be felt ..... and confirm your plan of R&R.
Old 05-21-2009, 03:10 PM
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Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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#4 in the illustration is usually the culprit,...
Old 05-21-2009, 05:59 PM
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Garth S
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
#4 in the illustration is usually the culprit,...
Check .... of the two ways it can fail, which predominates? - the bonded rubber barrel insert letting go or the nylon ball & socket end?
Old 05-21-2009, 06:07 PM
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Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Both,........

On a side note, my preference is the GT-2 EVO inners which are spherical bearings (ala 930 tie-rods) but one cannot buy them individually, just as part of the whole darned tie-rod assembly.
Old 05-21-2009, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Both,........

On a side note, my preference is the GT-2 EVO inners which are spherical bearings (ala 930 tie-rods) but one cannot buy them individually, just as part of the whole darned tie-rod assembly.
Which go beautifully with the EVO uprights
Old 05-21-2009, 08:56 PM
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gtroth
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Originally Posted by Garth S
Before replacing anything, I would jack up the front end and check everthing for torque if it's bolted - and for excessive play in the tie rods , wheel bearings, and dare I say, wheel nuts.
It takes two to check tie rods, one to wiggle the wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock - and one to lay two fingers & thumb lightly across either joint: any wear can easily be felt ..... and confirm your plan of R&R.
Yup-checked for play or loose bolts early on. And torqued the lug nuts myself, two sets of wheels. But I didn't check the rods exactly like you say with help from a friend - thank you - I'll give it a try.

One more question (2 parts) - if I make careful measurements of the original rods, can I get away without an alignment? If not, it's just toe-in yes?
Old 05-21-2009, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by gtroth
Yup-checked for play or loose bolts early on. And torqued the lug nuts myself, two sets of wheels. But I didn't check the rods exactly like you say with help from a friend - thank you - I'll give it a try.

One more question (2 parts) - if I make careful measurements of the original rods, can I get away without an alignment? If not, it's just toe-in yes?
The toe adjustment to be far too sensitive to allow that approach: as one gets near zero toe, 1/6 to 1/3 of a turn on one rod has a significant effect. You can set toe at home, but must make up 2 jigs with 'stand-offs' that allow a steel tape measurement fore and aft of both wheels ... then do symmetrical adjustments with the rack centered and locked down ..... or go to a shop for a front toe reset



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