WTB: RS Shift Rod
#106
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Garth, yes , I too have done much of this math myself, and will have a solution once the parts get here. I'm tired of looking at the stock rod on my workbench....need...parts.....now!
#108
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This is a great project and it is what many of us enjoy most about our 993's.
We can actually work on them. I too wish UPS would get those parts to you asap so we can enjoy the next step. Thanks in advance for letting us look over your shoulder!
Neil
#109
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#112
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What I realized by looking at the latest pictures is that 993 rod and 964 are very different. The 964 rod is closer to RS rod minus universal joint versus 993 rod where you guys have a bid flange with 2 bolts. In order for it to work with using the 993 rod, you would have to cut the knuckle off and re-use the flange. It would be way easier to start off with 964 rods but then again, the core exchange deal wouldn't work with the 993 guys.
#113
Seared
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What I realized by looking at the latest pictures is that 993 rod and 964 are very different. The 964 rod is closer to RS rod minus universal joint versus 993 rod where you guys have a bid flange with 2 bolts. In order for it to work with using the 993 rod, you would have to cut the knuckle off and re-use the flange. It would be way easier to start off with 964 rods but then again, the core exchange deal wouldn't work with the 993 guys.
The factory RS shift rod for the 993 is indeed a 964 part number.
Andreas
#114
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But like you said, it will work... RS part is same for both 964/993.
It's all good!
#115
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That's " cut twice, weld 3 times", one of which is a butt weld - which can be more problematic. What I mentioned above was "cut once, weld twice", achieved by inserting a length of 16mm/5/8" od sleeve down the throats of both the joint and rod once the flange is cut off. All straight 'pipe', no alignment issues so even a dufus can weld it up correctly. So, I qualify ...
Anyway, if you still want a job, that's the way it's gonna be in this northern franchise .... for I fully intend to capture the entire Nova Scotian 993 population
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On a serious note ... if you would be so kind, what is the distance on a 'real' RS rod between the mounting bolt hole center and bellows flange? On a conventional rod coupler, it is 24mm to a 32mm od disc ( ~1" and 1 1/4"). The bellows is at max. extension when in 1/3/5 gears, so I'm curious to see if the RS rod requires a little more stretch ( in case some additional bellows extension is required to cover an after market U-joint).
#116
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On a serious note ... if you would be so kind, what is the distance on a 'real' RS rod between the mounting bolt hole center and bellows flange? On a conventional rod coupler, it is 24mm to a 32mm od disc ( ~1" and 1 1/4"). The bellows is at max. extension when in 1/3/5 gears, so I'm curious to see if the RS rod requires a little more stretch ( in case some additional bellows extension is required to cover an after market U-joint).
I just measured this the other day - it's 62.3mm, or 2.449" from the center of the bolt hole to the flange. The stock bellows that came with my car fits the RS rod perfectly.
Andreas
#117
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OK, the first RS-Style shift rod is in Darin's car now. It came out great.
Will post pics, probably tomorrow. Long day at the FDM factory... we needed to fab a load of 2WD conversion trans mounts too...
Need shower and food.
Soon Cactus, soon!
By the way Mr. Cactus, if you can, please email me a pic of your shift rod. Need to see the trans end... from the rag joint back. Thanks!
Will post pics, probably tomorrow. Long day at the FDM factory... we needed to fab a load of 2WD conversion trans mounts too...
Need shower and food.
Soon Cactus, soon!
By the way Mr. Cactus, if you can, please email me a pic of your shift rod. Need to see the trans end... from the rag joint back. Thanks!
#118
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#120
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