Remte Entry Key Fob Programming Made Easy
02-07-2009, 08:53 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Just practice this again to verify. I do not worry about the led's on the door until I was ready to program the remote. First I disable the alarm. Open and close the door and then let it be for about 10 minutes. Get in the car, and close the door and verify that I cannot crank the car to verfiy that immobilizer is kicked in. Like you said, OFF is furthest left. But I also have a second notch where nothing lights up. And then the next notch is where all of the lights on the dash lit up. That is the ON position for me. The only light I look at is the remote symbol light right below 3 o'clock on the clock. That is the light that the instructions is referring to. From then, I count each off-on again as one count in steps 3-6. Each time having to go over this middle notch as fast as I can. And then after the fourth code, and the remote light on the clock is flashing, I can start the car. I hope this helps you to verify that you have the correct code for your car. Then you can do it all over again and this time with the remote FOB's and the led on on the door as stated in the instructions.
02-11-2009, 10:20 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
Update
SUCCESS!
Turns out the first code I got from the dealer was merely the ignition/key code, which is not the same as the learning/immobilizer code, which did the trick on the first try.
So after probably 5 cycles of locking the car with one remote, unlocking with the other, switching remotes, etc. (all with a stupid grin on my face), I stamped "success" on this one and called it a night.
Rennlist posts and previous threads were invaluable in figuring this all out. This place is the greatest!
- Dave
Turns out the first code I got from the dealer was merely the ignition/key code, which is not the same as the learning/immobilizer code, which did the trick on the first try.
So after probably 5 cycles of locking the car with one remote, unlocking with the other, switching remotes, etc. (all with a stupid grin on my face), I stamped "success" on this one and called it a night.
Rennlist posts and previous threads were invaluable in figuring this all out. This place is the greatest!
- Dave
07-22-2009, 01:41 PM
#34
Drifting
I just got a new key and fob and am going to try to program it.
Question: Is the programming code that I should be using, the one that is on the cardboard tag attached to the valet key (i.e. the skinny key)?
Question: Is the programming code that I should be using, the one that is on the cardboard tag attached to the valet key (i.e. the skinny key)?
07-22-2009, 05:13 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Rinty-
I don't think so...That's probably the code to cut duplicate keys. What you're looking for is a white sticker with 6 numbers, the last 4 are surrounded by a black line rectangle. There's a bar code underneath the numbers. Use the numbers in the rectangle in the order given.
Regards,
Stan
I don't think so...That's probably the code to cut duplicate keys. What you're looking for is a white sticker with 6 numbers, the last 4 are surrounded by a black line rectangle. There's a bar code underneath the numbers. Use the numbers in the rectangle in the order given.
Regards,
Stan
07-22-2009, 07:49 PM
#36
Drifting
Thanks, Stan. I'm going to give it a try, before I take it to the dealer. Just as long as I remind myself to not get frustrated....
P.S. Sure enough, when I got home I checked the cardboard tag attached to the skinny key, and there are two sets of numbers on it, one enclosed by the rectangle. Unfortunately, I have too high numbers, so if I have to take it to the dealer, I'm going to have them reprogram it with low numbers.
P.S. Sure enough, when I got home I checked the cardboard tag attached to the skinny key, and there are two sets of numbers on it, one enclosed by the rectangle. Unfortunately, I have too high numbers, so if I have to take it to the dealer, I'm going to have them reprogram it with low numbers.
Last edited by Rinty; 07-23-2009 at 01:53 PM.
07-27-2009, 01:31 AM
#37
Drifting
No joy on the programming: couldn't get to the flashing light. So it's booked at the dealer on Thursday morning, and we're off to the Kootenays on Saturday morning.
03-31-2010, 03:11 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
I'm assuming you're trying to get the immobilizer icon on the clock to flash, indicating the system is in "learn" mode and ready to accept keys.
At least four possibilities that I can think of:
1) Wrong code. If you've been using the ignition code, try the immobilizer code or vice versa.
2) One of the sensors is activated. When you lock the car, do the lights on the doors flash once every few seconds or do they blink twice every few seconds? If they flash twice, check trunk latches, door switches, glove box, radio, etc.
3) Does your code contain a 0? Do you flick the key 10 times in this case?
4) Lack of patience. After locking and verifying the door lights, if you then unlock the car, you need to wait maybe 90 seconds (I forget the exact number offhand) before starting the procedure.
Can you provide us with some more details about how you're trying to do this?
- Dave
At least four possibilities that I can think of:
1) Wrong code. If you've been using the ignition code, try the immobilizer code or vice versa.
2) One of the sensors is activated. When you lock the car, do the lights on the doors flash once every few seconds or do they blink twice every few seconds? If they flash twice, check trunk latches, door switches, glove box, radio, etc.
3) Does your code contain a 0? Do you flick the key 10 times in this case?
4) Lack of patience. After locking and verifying the door lights, if you then unlock the car, you need to wait maybe 90 seconds (I forget the exact number offhand) before starting the procedure.
Can you provide us with some more details about how you're trying to do this?
- Dave
03-31-2010, 03:11 PM
#40
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!! YES!!!!!!!!! Wow im so happy right now.
The priming part is one of the most important parts.
Now I have another question.
When I activate my alarm the led on the door flashes in doubles. Is that normal?
The priming part is one of the most important parts.
Now I have another question.
When I activate my alarm the led on the door flashes in doubles. Is that normal?
03-31-2010, 03:13 PM
#41
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I'm assuming you're trying to get the immobilizer icon on the clock to flash, indicating the system is in "learn" mode and ready to accept keys.
At least four possibilities that I can think of:
1) Wrong code. If you've been using the ignition code, try the immobilizer code or vice versa.
2) One of the sensors is activated. When you lock the car, do the lights on the doors flash once every few seconds or do they blink twice every few seconds? If they flash twice, check trunk latches, door switches, glove box, radio, etc.
3) Does your code contain a 0? Do you flick the key 10 times in this case?
4) Lack of patience. After locking and verifying the door lights, if you then unlock the car, you need to wait maybe 90 seconds (I forget the exact number offhand) before starting the procedure.
Can you provide us with some more details about how you're trying to do this?
- Dave
At least four possibilities that I can think of:
1) Wrong code. If you've been using the ignition code, try the immobilizer code or vice versa.
2) One of the sensors is activated. When you lock the car, do the lights on the doors flash once every few seconds or do they blink twice every few seconds? If they flash twice, check trunk latches, door switches, glove box, radio, etc.
3) Does your code contain a 0? Do you flick the key 10 times in this case?
4) Lack of patience. After locking and verifying the door lights, if you then unlock the car, you need to wait maybe 90 seconds (I forget the exact number offhand) before starting the procedure.
Can you provide us with some more details about how you're trying to do this?
- Dave
03-31-2010, 03:22 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
For the radio, my first question is if you have an aftermarket radio. If you do, I would check that the green wire from the car is NOT attached to the radio. This signal is meant to be normally open, and closed (like when the radio is ripped out) triggers the alarm. It's a common mistake for guys to assume the green wire means ground or something and hook it to the back of their aftermarket radio when installing.
- Dave
03-31-2010, 03:27 PM
#43
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Start by seeing if the interior lights come on when you open each door individually.
For the radio, my first question is if you have an aftermarket radio. If you do, I would check that the green wire from the car is NOT attached to the radio. This signal is meant to be normally open, and closed (like when the radio is ripped out) triggers the alarm. It's a common mistake for guys to assume the green wire means ground or something and hook it to the back of their aftermarket radio when installing.
- Dave
For the radio, my first question is if you have an aftermarket radio. If you do, I would check that the green wire from the car is NOT attached to the radio. This signal is meant to be normally open, and closed (like when the radio is ripped out) triggers the alarm. It's a common mistake for guys to assume the green wire means ground or something and hook it to the back of their aftermarket radio when installing.
- Dave
I took out the climate control too but both have been put back and work fine.
03-31-2010, 05:24 PM
#45
Still plays with cars.
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Andy,
Great post. I have copied it to the 993 DIY forum so it will be easily available.
Best,
Great post. I have copied it to the 993 DIY forum so it will be easily available.
Best,