Thanks, Andy. I think my dumb, old brain has it figured now!
Regards,
Stan
p.s.: I've been thinking about that YOUTUBE idea and it might not be such a good idea. In this crime-ridden world we live in, car thieves would love to know how the IMMOBILIZER works.

 

Thanks, Andy! I'll give this a try soon.

 

take care with different versions, here you go


http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...mobilizer2.htm

 

Does this mean ALL 1995's can use a key fob for access? I only have key access at this point and if it's as easy as buying the key fob and programming then I may do it.

Please advise.

Thanks

 

Not all '95's got the IMMOBILIZER. Mine is an early car and, fortunately, did not. Apparently, neither did yours. Consider yourself lucky!

 

How do you know if you have an immobilizer? If I can only get into my car wtih key access does that mean I can't use a key fob ever?

 

NC Trackrat,

Mine is an early 95 so that explains it. Not such a big deal.

 

If you had an IMMOBILIZER and used the key to unlock the door, the alarm would probably have gone off. Just be glad you don't. They're a PITA!

 

indeed they are...one thing (before I try this at home), I am buying a spare FOB want want to activate it. I don't want to have to reprogram my current FOB.

Do I have to reprog. my current FOB or would it not be affected?

 

When you do this procedure you have to program all of the remotes you will use (no more than four). If you don't include your current fob it will no longer work for your car. If you get through to the programming bit it's as easy to do two fobs as one.

 

Thanks....and - nice wheels, are those 18” Sport Design wheels (like mine)?

 

Works like a charm! Got it on the fourth try and did not set off alarm at all. Had to open the door after programming both remote before they started to work. Thanks!

 

I just did this on my 97 C4S, works!

However, it was a PITA, & took a few tries to get it right.
Any dealer should be able to get your "key code" mine didn't even charge me for it.

Lastly, when putting in the key code, don't go all the way to the on position, so the alarm light goes on, that is imputing that number, & not part of the inputting of the number.

 

My "on" position was all the way up to before I crank the car. It was not bad at all. Took a total of about 20 minutes. Half of it was to verify that I had the correct immobilizer code. So this diy also showed me how to start the car without the remote.

 

So I have been using this procedure and after maybe 10 attempts I think I must be missing something (either that or the code I got is incorrect).

First off, before each attempt I lock the car w/ the remote, verify the LEDs on the door go from fast blink to slow blink after 10 seconds. So all seems good with the alarm system.

Then I unlock the car as per the directions and give it a few minutes to prime the system.

When going through the procedure, I treat "Off" as key is in the leftmost position. I treat "On" as key is in the 2nd position, where all dash lights are lit.

So here's what's happening. Either I don't get the flashing dash light after entering the 4th digit, or the light comes on while inputting one of the other digits (usually the 2nd).

Occasionally I will also get in a mode where the dash light goes off after only 5 seconds. This is usually correcting by going back to step one in terms of locking and unlocking the car.

I have also gotten into a mode somehow where in either of the first two steps, the dash light goes off after 15 seconds, but then comes back on again after 5 seconds and stays on.

I believe my code is correct, although I don't have the physical card with the code on it; I had to call and get the code from a dealer.

Any other suggestions for how to figure this one out?

Thanks,

- Dave