993 RS rear suspension???
#1
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993 RS rear suspension???
I know that some of you have changed your rear suspension to RS spec. I am in the process of putting together a parts order and am wodering if any of you have changed the side panals to the RS version.
993.331.051.80 Side panel /L
993.331.052.80 Side panel /R
I'm curious as to how necessary this might be, or even if it's worth it considering the cost of the parts.
993.331.051.80 Side panel /L
993.331.052.80 Side panel /R
I'm curious as to how necessary this might be, or even if it's worth it considering the cost of the parts.
#3
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The difference is that the slot for the camber adjuster is longer. To make use of this you also need the RS camber eccentric bolts.
You can pretty easily modify your stock parts to replicate the RS parts.
You can pretty easily modify your stock parts to replicate the RS parts.
#5
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I already have the RS eccentric bolts and washers on the list of parts that I will order.
While I have your attention,
I'm going to replace all the rear arms and hardware w/ factory, that's A(RS), kinematic(RS) and camber(generic late993)
but the thinking is to do the toe link w/ a Tarret piece w/ their lock kit.
Does that all sound reasonable??
I do not want to make this into a track only car which an all monoball set up would be.
This past year I put ~2000mi on the car of which ~1200 was on a track the rest street.
TIA for any advice
#6
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As far as I know Bill, the only difference with the RS frame and standard are the stiffness of the bushes. For my money you should keep the standard frames and fit the GT2 Evo solid bush kit, it won't kill the compliance of the back end but it will nail out the strange rear wheel steering effects that happen when the rear end unloads suddenly. In order of priority, this mod is third on our list behind a handling kit and front wishbone bushes.
#7
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what do you mean by handling kit? What are the subsequent items?
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#8
I am generally not in favor of adjustable length arms on 993s (although they are very handy in some situations) because things get really complicated when you have both the ability to change the location and the length of the arms.
I guess if you lock down the eccentric then you don't have that problem. The motorsport toe links are great because they eliminate that stupid long ball joint stud which makes taking the crossmember off much easier. Of course the motorsport parts are quite expensive.
All things considered, the aftermarket links probably are a good choice.
I think you can get away with monoballs in a street car if you leave the rubber mounts in the subframes. The increase in noise won't be too bad.
BTW Colin is probably right about RS subframe bushings. I have never thought about it because the only time I see RS subframes they are in race cars with solid mounts.
I guess if you lock down the eccentric then you don't have that problem. The motorsport toe links are great because they eliminate that stupid long ball joint stud which makes taking the crossmember off much easier. Of course the motorsport parts are quite expensive.
All things considered, the aftermarket links probably are a good choice.
I think you can get away with monoballs in a street car if you leave the rubber mounts in the subframes. The increase in noise won't be too bad.
BTW Colin is probably right about RS subframe bushings. I have never thought about it because the only time I see RS subframes they are in race cars with solid mounts.
#10
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The 9m way of tuning a 993 suspension is:
1. Springs & damper package (handling kit) KW preferred & recommended.
2. Front wishbone bush upgrade - RS wishbones or poly
3. Stiff axle kit (GT2 Evo, as photo
4. RS anti roll bars.
I think Smart Racing Products stock the stiff axle kits but no doubt they are available from other vendors.
1. Springs & damper package (handling kit) KW preferred & recommended.
2. Front wishbone bush upgrade - RS wishbones or poly
3. Stiff axle kit (GT2 Evo, as photo
4. RS anti roll bars.
I think Smart Racing Products stock the stiff axle kits but no doubt they are available from other vendors.
#11
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I am generally not in favor of adjustable length arms on 993s (although they are very handy in some situations) because things get really complicated when you have both the ability to change the location and the length of the arms.
I guess if you lock down the eccentric then you don't have that problem. The motorsport toe links are great because they eliminate that stupid long ball joint stud which makes taking the crossmember off much easier. Of course the motorsport parts are quite expensive.
All things considered, the aftermarket links probably are a good choice.
I think you can get away with monoballs in a street car if you leave the rubber mounts in the subframes. The increase in noise won't be too bad.
BTW Colin is probably right about RS subframe bushings. I have never thought about it because the only time I see RS subframes they are in race cars with solid mounts.
I guess if you lock down the eccentric then you don't have that problem. The motorsport toe links are great because they eliminate that stupid long ball joint stud which makes taking the crossmember off much easier. Of course the motorsport parts are quite expensive.
All things considered, the aftermarket links probably are a good choice.
I think you can get away with monoballs in a street car if you leave the rubber mounts in the subframes. The increase in noise won't be too bad.
BTW Colin is probably right about RS subframe bushings. I have never thought about it because the only time I see RS subframes they are in race cars with solid mounts.
#12
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#13
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The 9m way of tuning a 993 suspension is:
1. Springs & damper package (handling kit) KW preferred & recommended.
2. Front wishbone bush upgrade - RS wishbones or poly
3. Stiff axle kit (GT2 Evo, as photo
4. RS anti roll bars.
I think Smart Racing Products stock the stiff axle kits but no doubt they are available from other vendors.
1. Springs & damper package (handling kit) KW preferred & recommended.
2. Front wishbone bush upgrade - RS wishbones or poly
3. Stiff axle kit (GT2 Evo, as photo
4. RS anti roll bars.
I think Smart Racing Products stock the stiff axle kits but no doubt they are available from other vendors.
The back will be this winter's project, I have been getting an ugly squirm in back when a completly unloaded suspension reloads
So given that the car needs to remain 50/50 track street would the Gt2 tilt/solid bush kit be a worthwhile change?
#15
Colin fitted these to my car, now I am not an expert at all but I do drive my car on the road a fair bit ~ 4000 - 5000 miles per annum and do approx 10 - 12 track days a year and they did not affect the harshness at all (or to be more precise, I did not notice any change in harshness) but they do stop the tail self steering on the track and have saved me from going into serious tank slappers (massive fishtailing) on at least two occassions on the track.
Prior to speaking to colin my car felt like it had a massive fat backside on the track that wobbled around on hard cornering, I changed out the engine and gearbox mounts to RS items to no avail, but the GT2 mounts solved the issue totally.
I can totally agree with Colin these are a definite top 3 for suspension but no one apart from colin seems to know about them - prob the reason Colin is the Ninemeister - no affiliation, just a happy customer :-)
BTW the billet head conversion still going strong after 30k miles and 3 years
Prior to speaking to colin my car felt like it had a massive fat backside on the track that wobbled around on hard cornering, I changed out the engine and gearbox mounts to RS items to no avail, but the GT2 mounts solved the issue totally.
I can totally agree with Colin these are a definite top 3 for suspension but no one apart from colin seems to know about them - prob the reason Colin is the Ninemeister - no affiliation, just a happy customer :-)
BTW the billet head conversion still going strong after 30k miles and 3 years