993 RS rear suspension???
#46
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We have our own made in two different stiffnesses (road & track) but Chris's will definitely be up to the job.
Sounds like it to me. The whole back end moves under load, I noticed the effect the very first time I drove a standard 993 on the road, it's that little bit of uncertainty about the grip level you feel on initial turn-in as well as the movement you have noticed. Trust me, if you want your 993 to give you more confidence in its abilities, this is the way to do it.
I have been told that near cornering limits, the rear end of my car is not smooth, but seems to be loading and unloading slightly. I can't feel it (maybe I'm used to it), but several people have told me it looks really weird. Is this what you guys are trying to correct?
Greg H.
Greg H.
#47
I second what Colin is saying, given my car is the car with the "dirty" mounts, it was transformed on the track after Colin fitted the kit, it goes where it is told, at pretty much any speed angle and is controllable when you make rapid direction changes (like when you get it wrong - Colin wouldn't have any experience of this )and when it starts to drift as you go through a fast chicane, furthermore I noticed NO difference at all to ride quality on the road. Highly recommended.
Mine you I do have PSS9's and RS anti roll bars fitted. so no further deterioration on road from PSS9's on soft setting and a/r bars on middle setting.
Definitely a must do mod
John
Mine you I do have PSS9's and RS anti roll bars fitted. so no further deterioration on road from PSS9's on soft setting and a/r bars on middle setting.
Definitely a must do mod
John
#49
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I'm thinking that plain old flat solids are the more appropriate way to go for an RS type and the tilt kit is more for the high hp tt cars. Any comments on this notion.
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I just did my rear bearings and was hoping I didn't have to take the axles out again since it was such a PITA.
I was hoping there is a short cut from the obvious "take everything apart". For example, the workshop manual says you have to disassemble several rear suspension links to remove the axle but that is not true. I'm wondering about removing the shock to unload the suspension and just unbolting the side panels or maybe even unbolting one end of them to slide the tilt kit in. This seems like one of those things that would be a lot clearer the second time around.
Greg H.
I was hoping there is a short cut from the obvious "take everything apart". For example, the workshop manual says you have to disassemble several rear suspension links to remove the axle but that is not true. I'm wondering about removing the shock to unload the suspension and just unbolting the side panels or maybe even unbolting one end of them to slide the tilt kit in. This seems like one of those things that would be a lot clearer the second time around.
Greg H.
#51
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I just did my rear bearings and was hoping I didn't have to take the axles out again since it was such a PITA.
I was hoping there is a short cut from the obvious "take everything apart". For example, the workshop manual says you have to disassemble several rear suspension links to remove the axle but that is not true. I'm wondering about removing the shock to unload the suspension and just unbolting the side panels or maybe even unbolting one end of them to slide the tilt kit in. This seems like one of those things that would be a lot clearer the second time around.
Greg H.
I was hoping there is a short cut from the obvious "take everything apart". For example, the workshop manual says you have to disassemble several rear suspension links to remove the axle but that is not true. I'm wondering about removing the shock to unload the suspension and just unbolting the side panels or maybe even unbolting one end of them to slide the tilt kit in. This seems like one of those things that would be a lot clearer the second time around.
Greg H.
#55
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