993 RS rear suspension???
#31
Drifting
Colin-
Can you comment on the difference in mounting of the GT2 Tilt kit in regards to your project and 95 993's photo? It appears yours is assembled differently....?
Can you comment on the difference in mounting of the GT2 Tilt kit in regards to your project and 95 993's photo? It appears yours is assembled differently....?
#32
Seared
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#33
I am curious about your alignment specs moving around. I just have not had this problem with 993s (996s are another story). What is moving around?
With the tilt kit the thin crossmember is placed above the side panels, as shown in post 16. It looks wrong but if you install the crossmember in the 'normal' position, the transmission cover becomes an air scoop. You have to counterbore the bolt holes and use allen bolts to get the bolts up out of the way. You can use a hand electric drill to do this in a pinch.
#34
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The correct assembly with the stiff kit is the dirty one - because the front of the frame is lower you have to raise the undertray brace to compensate, which usually means countersinking the lower holes and mounting the brace on top of the subframe lugs.
#35
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They come out easily. I pry them out with a couple big screwdrivers. If there is rust then YMMV!
I am curious about your alignment specs moving around. I just have not had this problem with 993s (996s are another story). What is moving around?
With the tilt kit the thin crossmember is placed above the side panels, as shown in post 16. It looks wrong but if you install the crossmember in the 'normal' position, the transmission cover becomes an air scoop. You have to counterbore the bolt holes and use allen bolts to get the bolts up out of the way. You can use a hand electric drill to do this in a pinch.
I am curious about your alignment specs moving around. I just have not had this problem with 993s (996s are another story). What is moving around?
With the tilt kit the thin crossmember is placed above the side panels, as shown in post 16. It looks wrong but if you install the crossmember in the 'normal' position, the transmission cover becomes an air scoop. You have to counterbore the bolt holes and use allen bolts to get the bolts up out of the way. You can use a hand electric drill to do this in a pinch.
Is any thing else attached to the cross member besides the trans cover?
#36
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Not even close , except for the color. You're building the car I want, except that I refuse to trailer anymore and so need to keep it streetable. So far having a ball w/ it.
#37
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Thanks for all the great info guys! I'm just about to order up ERP monoball bushings front and rear, the tilt subframe mounts and monoball camber plates and rear shock mounts. Looking forward to the results!
#38
RL Technical Advisor
Bill et al,
I switched to the Tarett control arms and also used ERP monoballs inboard on the kinematic arms. As per Steve W's advice, this really 'tied down' the rear end and improved feel immensely. Also very streetable.
Now, re. the Gt2 solid mounts - does anyone have a part number for these? Are these Porsche motorsport parts, or 9M/aftermarket...?
TIA,
Matt
I switched to the Tarett control arms and also used ERP monoballs inboard on the kinematic arms. As per Steve W's advice, this really 'tied down' the rear end and improved feel immensely. Also very streetable.
Now, re. the Gt2 solid mounts - does anyone have a part number for these? Are these Porsche motorsport parts, or 9M/aftermarket...?
TIA,
Matt
We use, recommend, and sell the ERP solid mounts (flat or tilted) for this purpose.
#39
#40
Trev
#41
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Simply because the engine is not fitted in the car yet. Marc fitted the brace in the stock location as we did not have the countersunk bolts in stock and we wanted to get all the parts on the shell.
#42
The 9m way of tuning a 993 suspension is:
1. Springs & damper package (handling kit) KW preferred & recommended.
2. Front wishbone bush upgrade - RS wishbones or poly
3. Stiff axle kit (GT2 Evo, as photo
4. RS anti roll bars.
I think Smart Racing Products stock the stiff axle kits but no doubt they are available from other vendors.
1. Springs & damper package (handling kit) KW preferred & recommended.
2. Front wishbone bush upgrade - RS wishbones or poly
3. Stiff axle kit (GT2 Evo, as photo
4. RS anti roll bars.
I think Smart Racing Products stock the stiff axle kits but no doubt they are available from other vendors.
Trev
#43
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It's pretty much impossible for one technician to the whole job in one day, so the way we usually handle it is to put two technicians on the job, one doing the left side and the other the right; once it's built it will be 4 wheel aligned which is back to a one-man job. Best estimate of total time for the work is around 10 hours.
I dare say we could also help you out with a little "creative invoicing" for the better half's benefit - shame we spotted a crack in the rear subframe.
I dare say we could also help you out with a little "creative invoicing" for the better half's benefit - shame we spotted a crack in the rear subframe.
#44
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Is #2, the poly front bushes what Chris Walrod is selling?
I have been told that near cornering limits, the rear end of my car is not smooth, but seems to be loading and unloading slightly. I can't feel it (maybe I'm used to it), but several people have told me it looks really weird. Is this what you guys are trying to correct?
Greg H.
I have been told that near cornering limits, the rear end of my car is not smooth, but seems to be loading and unloading slightly. I can't feel it (maybe I'm used to it), but several people have told me it looks really weird. Is this what you guys are trying to correct?
Greg H.
#45
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Is #2, the poly front bushes what Chris Walrod is selling?
I have been told that near cornering limits, the rear end of my car is not smooth, but seems to be loading and unloading slightly. I can't feel it (maybe I'm used to it), but several people have told me it looks really weird. Is this what you guys are trying to correct?
Greg H.
I have been told that near cornering limits, the rear end of my car is not smooth, but seems to be loading and unloading slightly. I can't feel it (maybe I'm used to it), but several people have told me it looks really weird. Is this what you guys are trying to correct?
Greg H.
For me, I'm just wanting to replace 11 year old rubber with 50K miles on it. It's mostly a weekend/track toy these days so going with monoball bushings will be the better choice. I'm doing the tilt kit because my Turbo will have over 500HP shortly and it already squatted a lot under accel before; so would like to keep the suspension in better alignment without resorting to super stiff springs.