New C4 Clutch Slave and Can't Shift Gears
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
New C4 Clutch Slave and Can't Shift Gears
I just installed a new clutch-slave unit on my C4 and the peddle drops half way. Thus prohibiting me from engaging the gears. I bled the slave unit 5/6 times using a power bleeder and believe there is no air in the system. What in the world is going on folks? What am I missing?
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
#2
Rennlist Member
Could be air that migrated up to the master cyl - or a reservoir level that dropped too low during the bleeding .... regardless, it is a pain to bleed the master. What has worked for me is to top the reservoir to the nutz, reconnect the pressure bleeder, and second a helper to work the clutch pedal while you man the slave bleeder screw.
You open the screw while the helper depresses the clutch - then close .... and said helper slowly pulls the pedal back from the floor: after 5 or so cycles of this, the pedal firms up - and returns by itself as normal.
Keep an eye on the reservoir level, or this could start all over again
The slave piston can be forced all the way back by hand once connected to the line and prior to bolting to the bell housing - which is a 'pre-bleeding'; however, as the fun of installing it is now over, I would only consider that approach as a last resort.
You open the screw while the helper depresses the clutch - then close .... and said helper slowly pulls the pedal back from the floor: after 5 or so cycles of this, the pedal firms up - and returns by itself as normal.
Keep an eye on the reservoir level, or this could start all over again
The slave piston can be forced all the way back by hand once connected to the line and prior to bolting to the bell housing - which is a 'pre-bleeding'; however, as the fun of installing it is now over, I would only consider that approach as a last resort.
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Dayton Ohio.....Americas Playground!!!
Posts: 2,892
Likes: 0
Received 29 Likes
on
18 Posts
With BMW's I have found that sitting is the car and pushing the clutch in and out for 10 min or so will work out the bubbles that you cant get by bleeding. This sounds stupid but I assure you that it works on BMW's.
#5
Three Wheelin'
I would suggest to bleed again the slave cylinder. Chances are that you still have air in the circuit. No hammer is needed for that. Mine was going down to the floor, and I had to bleed it for a "looooong" time before it became "normal".
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks Gents, I'll give that a try this evening. Will update you later.
Ken
Ken
#7
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Just another note on this, are you 100% sure you installed the slave cylinder correctly? The metal tip in the front of it has to be dead center and you will hear short of a click when it is properly installed. if you are a bit off then you need to reinstall. Its a major PITA to get it in properly and it would explain the issues you have if its not done right... Just another thought on this as I have gone through it myself
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Just another note on this, are you 100% sure you installed the slave cylinder correctly? The metal tip in the front of it has to be dead center and you will hear short of a click when it is properly installed. if you are a bit off then you need to reinstall. Its a major PITA to get it in properly and it would explain the issues you have if its not done right... Just another thought on this as I have gone through it myself
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Installation of the Clutch-Slave Cylinder
Just another note on this, are you 100% sure you installed the slave cylinder correctly? The metal tip in the front of it has to be dead center and you will hear short of a click when it is properly installed. if you are a bit off then you need to reinstall. Its a major PITA to get it in properly and it would explain the issues you have if its not done right... Just another thought on this as I have gone through it myself
Ken
#10
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
No, I'm not 100% sure. But looking at one of the past post pictures, it looks like the slave's pointed-end should go into the off-centered round hole of the fork. Right? So, should the piston be pointing straight out or off to the right side where the hole is?
Yes, I think that's exactly what happened to me. The picture below shows what happened to my brand new slave unit. I'd thought it was a defective unit. So, I'd sent for a new one. It should be here sometime today. So, how can I make absolutely sure that I install it correctly the next time?
Ken
Yes, I think that's exactly what happened to me. The picture below shows what happened to my brand new slave unit. I'd thought it was a defective unit. So, I'd sent for a new one. It should be here sometime today. So, how can I make absolutely sure that I install it correctly the next time?
Ken
#12
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Ken,
I did the same replacement two years ago - PITA. Did you pop open the rubber bellhousing 'door'? If I remember correctly, I was able to verify if the rod end was in the divot by looking through the opening with a mirror.
Andreas
I did the same replacement two years ago - PITA. Did you pop open the rubber bellhousing 'door'? If I remember correctly, I was able to verify if the rod end was in the divot by looking through the opening with a mirror.
Andreas
#13
Racer
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Long Island, NY, USA
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Needs to be bled.
If you installed it off center without a full mating of both slave and tranny surfaces at all, it would break off an ear when you pushed in the pedal....ask me later how I know.
If the slave rod tip is not presented with an obstruction or stop and you depress the pedal....you'll blow all the internals right out the end....ask me later how I know.
So bleed it again...keep the fluid level up in the reservoir.
If you installed it off center without a full mating of both slave and tranny surfaces at all, it would break off an ear when you pushed in the pedal....ask me later how I know.
If the slave rod tip is not presented with an obstruction or stop and you depress the pedal....you'll blow all the internals right out the end....ask me later how I know.
So bleed it again...keep the fluid level up in the reservoir.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ken,
I did the same replacement two years ago - PITA. Did you pop open the rubber bellhousing 'door'? If I remember correctly, I was able to verify if the rod end was in the divot by looking through the opening with a mirror.
No, I didn't, but that's a great idea. I'll try that tonight.
Andreas
I did the same replacement two years ago - PITA. Did you pop open the rubber bellhousing 'door'? If I remember correctly, I was able to verify if the rod end was in the divot by looking through the opening with a mirror.
No, I didn't, but that's a great idea. I'll try that tonight.
Andreas
Needs to be bled.
If you installed it off center without a full mating of both slave and tranny surfaces at all, it would break off an ear when you pushed in the pedal....ask me later how I know.
If the slave rod tip is not presented with an obstruction or stop and you depress the pedal....you'll blow all the internals right out the end....ask me later how I know.
So bleed it again...keep the fluid level up in the reservoir.
If you installed it off center without a full mating of both slave and tranny surfaces at all, it would break off an ear when you pushed in the pedal....ask me later how I know.
If the slave rod tip is not presented with an obstruction or stop and you depress the pedal....you'll blow all the internals right out the end....ask me later how I know.
So bleed it again...keep the fluid level up in the reservoir.
Thanks everyone. I'll let you informed.
Ken
Last edited by 993Porsche; 07-31-2008 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Upload Pics and Additional Editing