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Need to find a DIY for replacing the A/C ballast resistor. Did BS911's "COMPLETE A/C Diagnosis". Thank you! Replaced the drier and expansion valve and had the system refilled to proper levels. A/C works great but only when high fan is on. Low fan inop. Bought a new ballast but not easily seeing where this guy lives? In side the fan housing? Opened up the drivers front fender well and think I'm to the "help me now" stage! Tks Hubb
The AC ballast in on top of the AC condenser and angled to the chassis side. Use a small mirror to see what it looks like. You may also be able to access it by pulling the drivers side head light.
I found it easiest to just drop the AC condenser, which is very easy to do
I was able to get to it by taking off the wheel and removing the inner fender liner. That way you won't need to do a full bumper drop. It's a really tight squeeze, but with patience and a lot of cursing I was able to swap the resistor.
Is the car drivable whilst the bumper is off or is there stuff hanging? I was thinking of taking the car to the body shop, having them remove the bumper for a bumperette delete and respray and while that was being done, take the car home and do the resistors. Workable?
Is the car drivable whilst the bumper is off or is there stuff hanging? I was thinking of taking the car to the body shop, having them remove the bumper for a bumperette delete and respray and while that was being done, take the car home and do the resistors. Workable?
I would be concerned about the stuff that's left exposed (oil cooler/ac cooler, various fans, etc...). How about taking the car to the shop, having them match the paint color in person, go home where you remove the bumper yourself and then drop the cover off?
I'm not sure they need the car to do the matching - the bumper itself should be enough. While I probably can get the bumper off easily enough, I'd rather have them put it on, both to have it done right and to make sure I don't hack up the new paint. This would leave just one half hour drive with the front exposed.
I had been hoping for an easy fix. I see this is not going to be the case. Do I really need to pull fan and condenser to R/R the resistor. Don't se the headlight idea at all?
If it's similar to oil cooler resistor I unbolted the cooler assembly and dropped it just a few inches for access. It added maybe a 1/2 hr to the job, but I couldn't get at it otherwise.
It is quite easy to replace these resistors working through the headlight opening. Just unplug the wiring harness, leave the dead resistor in place, mount the new resistor on a fender bolt, inside the headlight area, and plug it into the harness.
BobbyT, do you have a photo of the resistor installed in the headlight area? I will be attempting this side (AC resistor ) this coming weekend and would prefer your solution.
I was able to get to it by taking off the wheel and removing the inner fender liner. That way you won't need to do a full bumper drop. It's a really tight squeeze, but with patience and a lot of cursing I was able to swap the resistor.
+1. Easy job, actually. 45 minutes start to finish the first time I tried.
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