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Arrrrrrrgh! I'm sick of the bloody fasteners

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Old 02-24-2008, 01:41 PM
  #16  
RS man
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No luck with the bolt off set up - not enough space on the middle bolt. I will need to get the torx bit and also "grabit" which is a drill piece with counterclockwise thread and perhaps it might work....so we have to wait til the next weekend.

Harry
Old 02-24-2008, 05:24 PM
  #17  
chris walrod
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Originally Posted by RS man
Chris,

I am not sure how I can fit a chisel into the hex socket. I assume you are talking about the normal hexagonal headed ones?

Harry
Actually striking the head of the bolt with the chisel in a CCW manner.
Old 02-24-2008, 05:47 PM
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RS man
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Originally Posted by chris walrod
Actually striking the head of the bolt with the chisel in a CCW manner.
Eventhe round ones? I cringe to think what will happen with deflected blows - have you done this for the round-headed allen bolts, Chris - if you have any tips?

Harry
Old 02-24-2008, 06:33 PM
  #19  
jscott82
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Originally Posted by chris walrod
Actually striking the head of the bolt with the chisel in a CCW manner.
+1

I just went through this same exercise with the same bolt. After spending 4hrs soaking in wd-40, Allen wrenches, screw extractors, etc. I took a last ditch with a chisel.... There is just enough room to get the chisel in at 3:00 and get just enough angle on it to break the bolt free.
Old 02-24-2008, 06:37 PM
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RS man
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Originally Posted by jscott82
+1

I just went through this same exercise with the same bolt. After spending 4hrs soaking in wd-40, Allen wrenches, screw extractors, etc. I took a last ditch with a chisel.... There is just enough room to get the chisel in at 3:00 and get just enough angle on it to break the bolt free.
So can you talk me through it - did you make any scores in the head so that there is a notch in the bolt head so that the chisel won't slip and damage surrounding structures which is my major reservation with this method you suggest.

Harry
Old 02-24-2008, 07:25 PM
  #21  
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Ill do my best.... The car is now in the bodyshop for some other work so I cant take any pictures.....

But essentially you should be just able to get a chisel in just enough to knock it CCW. In my previous attempts to remove it I had cut a slot to try a large screw driver, I don’t think that was necessary but it certainly helped. As far damaging surrounding parts you don’t need to hit it that hard, just a good whack to get it started. One thing to note: you want to make sure you are using a metal hammer and solid chisel. Just give it a firm/hard tap.
If you look at the picture below, you can see the slot I cut and where the chisel deformed it a little at 2:00....

Does that help ?
Jeff

Last edited by jscott82; 03-19-2014 at 09:49 PM.
Old 02-24-2008, 07:26 PM
  #22  
chris walrod
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A chisel, with a few small taps, will start a groove in which you can start hitting it harder with.
Old 02-24-2008, 07:56 PM
  #23  
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I am going to do this in a few weeks. Can these be replaced with something other then a hex bolt. Something you can put a socket on. Are these a bitch to get off because they are the original ones. Are they easier the 2nd time around.
Old 02-24-2008, 08:29 PM
  #24  
RS man
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Jeff,
Thanks a lot for your picture and the details on how to do this.

Chris,
I will start gently as you suggest.

"Is this a great place or what?"

Yeah, it's a fantastic place with all the support, encouragement and collective knowledge you need when the going gets tough.

I'll let you guys know how i get on.

Cheers.

Harry
Old 02-25-2008, 04:52 PM
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Disaster, I have now mangled the head with the chisel. The bolt is not going to budge

Not sure what option I have now.....

Harry
Old 02-25-2008, 05:53 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by RS man
Disaster, I have now mangled the head with the chisel. The bolt is not going to budge

Not sure what option I have now.....

Harry
Oh No......

I was at wits end when I tried the chisel..... Hopefully some of the other very bright folks here can come up with a better idea, but the only options I can see are.
1) If there is anything left you may try warming the motor, soak the bolt in penetrating oil again, then lightly tap on the bolt to help work the oil in. Then cross your fingers, say a prayer and try again.

If that still does not work, options are getting pretty slim..... You may try:

2) Drilling the head off the bolt. drill it off, remove the sheet metal, then maybe the valve covers to where you can grab the nub (you did leave a little nub when you drilled it didt you?) with a pair of vice grips.

3) Drill out the center of the bolt. VERY carefully drill down the middle of the bolt with a bit that is 50% the size of the bolt. this may help relieve just enough tension to allow it to break free. Or you can tap the smaller hole and use a smaller bolt. Or just drill the whole thin and use a timecert(sp?).

Those were the only options I saw remaining on mine, both are definitely last resort.

Best of luck....
Jeff
Old 02-26-2008, 12:13 AM
  #27  
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After banging on it with a chisel for some time, you may want to try an allen driver of some sort since the head is now a different shape no doubt. I say this because a lot of times you'll find the bolt had since broke free without even knowing it. Give it a try.

Last edited by chris walrod; 02-26-2008 at 11:14 AM.
Old 02-26-2008, 12:25 AM
  #28  
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I know it is now too late for RS Man, but for any socket head bolt (there are lots on Porsches!) that seems like it might give me trouble, before attempting to break it loose, I first soak it in WD40/PB Blaster/whatever the penetrating oil of choice may be. I then insert the Allen socket into the head of the bolt, and give the bottom of the socket some good whacks with a hammer. This not only makes sure the socket is in all the way for a good bite, it also helps shock the threads loose, reducing the likelihood of stripping the head out.

If the worst happens and the bolt head strips out, I try the hammering the socket in method next if I haven't already. Sometimes that extra little bite from driving the socket in is all you need. I find that sockets like the ones that the pics of were posted work well also. If these aren't available, the chisel method already mentioned by Chris Walrod and others works well if there is room.
Old 02-26-2008, 03:57 AM
  #29  
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Above, Jeff implies you can get a drill in there. That being the case, try a stud extractor (I think our American friends call these Eaziouts - a bit like a coarse threaded tap but with the "thread" in the opposite direction). E.g. www. screwfix.com product number 200084-88.

Good luck!
Old 02-26-2008, 04:23 AM
  #30  
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I know its a bit late but I also recommend a high quality allen socket set. A sharp edge of the allen key is pretty important to get a really positve lock inside the bolt head. It seems that, though all the heat cycles, that often these bolts are almost welded to the heads and you need to apply quite a bit of torque before you get the scarey but satisfying ***snap**. I have used cheaper sets (even Craftsman) and find a better set results in less stripping.


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