BobbyT

Andreas,
Has the length of the guide tube on your car been adjusted? I have fiddled with the length of mine, and would like to get it back to original length, which I can do using your photo for reference (if yours is unmolested).

The manual says to adjust the guide tube length so the lower part of the shift lever is vertical in neutral when viewed from the side, but it is hard to see with the boot in the way...

ppressle

I am building one using a 1/2" universal joint socket. (Snap-on ) One of those projects that has been sitting though.

AOW162435

Roger,
It's an RS part.

Pete,
The stock rubber boot is used for both versions.

Bobby,
My support rod is at the correct length. I merely replaced the front ball cup and reset the entire rod to the original length (on my bench).


Andreas

AOW162435

That's a great idea and should work just fine. It's about the same size.


Andreas

NP993

Do a search on my name -- I recreated the RS shift rod for about $1.50 in hardware from Ace.

BobbyT

Andreas, thanks for the quick reply. Do you perchance have an actual measurement for the correct support rod length? I'm assuming that at lease all the 95s would be the same length...

Stealth 993

Will this work on a C4?

Essexmetal

In the process of converting to RWD from AWD and updating the shift linkage at the same time. This thread is quite timely for what I am doing. Just have a thought on the U-joint for the trans to rod (RS style) connection.

Even though a socket universal joint has ample strength (and availability) just wondering if by it's very configuration if it is not too difficult to attach. It is not the best material to weld to given it will get brittle and does not have features at both ends to allow a bolt through attachment.
There are a variety of commercial and high-end joints like Apex, Borgenson and like brands that offer better attachment along with pivot bushings in the U-joints. Apex which are standard for most race / aircraft applications have a boot enclosed joint to keep the water out. For those who do not have hardware available locally companies like McMaster Carr and their online catalog will set you up.

Rick

1pcarnut

Noah,
Did the search, that is a brilliantly simple solution! Thanks.

CWay27

Too bad it doesn't work with a 964.

I'd like some more info on the helm joint if anyone has tackle this project.

chris walrod

The Apex joint is what I am using on this slow moving project. They are pricey, but the best!

CWay27

Looking at Mcmaster-carr online catalog and it looks like reproducing rod #15 and both ends with heim joints shouldn't be so hard. Am I missing something??

Essexmetal

Chris,
Nice collection there. I have a left over race stock and have not had to buy any Apex joints for years. Wonder how much $ a 3/4" is these days? I mentioned them for the same reason you pointed out, they are high end. I should have my shift rod finished by the weekend and will post some pics.

CWay27, I don't think you are missing anything. The biggest problem is not as much a rod end on either end of the tube but reworking the attachments on the shifter (#1) and reaction plate (#24). As you can see there are joints available that have studs instead of the through bolt hole. By using those someone without a machine shop could remove the spherical ball off the end of the shifter and reaction plate and drill a hole that they will attach to.

I am machining some weld-in studs that will accept a standard rodend. These studs will replace the ball end on the shifter and reaction plate. The only problem I see with rod ends is being careful on the type you choose. I like the SS teflon lined ones but these have a problem when new in a lightly loaded application. They have a fair bit of preload and are quire stiff. Usually you mount them in a lathe and run the spheres in until they are free moving. There are other rodends with bronze liners, cheaper and with much less initial preload, but they need to be kept dry and dust free. Some have boots. The SS teflon can tolerate the crap conditions the best.

Rick

chris walrod

A lot of our race teams do this only with a cordless drill at the track. One trick I learned while doing this is to dunk them in water right at the point in time they start to loosen up. Otherwise, they'll overheat and get even 'stickier'..

chris walrod

Forgot to mention they are a little over a C-note in terms of cost. Depending upon how many are purchased.