Some Mods, Short Shift, 3rd Gear Chirps, Shifter knob vibration SOLVED
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My 993 for the past two and half years had two annoying problems.
The first was it chirped when quick shifting into 3rd gear sometimes and the other the shifter had a vibration
that caused the carbon shifter **** to make a lot of noise!
I first thought let's make this three piece shifter **** a bit tighter.
So I took it off and carefully attempted to take it apart. It 's press fitted in such a way that makes impossible to take it apart without damaging it.
I used silicone to fill all the gaps and then press fitted it back together and installed back on the shifter.
Although it dampened the vibration noise a lot , it was still present.
I had noticed increased play in the shifter so I thought sooner or later I'll take it apart and install the Short Shift Kit I had ordered from Gert about a year ago.
After going for a ride I parked the car in the garage and the next time I went to take it out I had no shfting ability at all. It got disconnected from the shifter rod .
I took it apart and ordered two cup bushings from a 928 and installed them in the shifter rod ($10 instead of $240 for the rod) PART # 928-116-145-03
I then installed the Short Shift Kit using new plastic bearings. PART # 999-924-002-40 get Four of them!
Everything went smooth but I didn't like the extra height that the Short Shifter has so I used the grinder and took it down about 1.5".
Now here's a Mod I came with that save's you being stuck and having to call a tow truck.
I made an L bracket to hold the front cup ball of the shifter rod from dropping off the ball on the front frame bracket.
I wondered why this wasn't done before.
It saves you from the cup bushing failure that's only a matter of time before everyone will experience.
All went well, a quick cleanup and out for a test drive. No noise, No vibration, No chirp when quick shifting into 3rd
and about a 25% shorter shifting pattern.
Everything back to perfection!![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
~Chris~
Sorry for the hand drawn parts but you get the idea![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/bracket_copy6.jpg)
Here's another option that you could replace both cups with these adjustable ones![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/sbk2.jpg)
Now for those of you who feel really creative go here and design your own, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/105_...s-Sleeves.html
The first was it chirped when quick shifting into 3rd gear sometimes and the other the shifter had a vibration
that caused the carbon shifter **** to make a lot of noise!
I first thought let's make this three piece shifter **** a bit tighter.
So I took it off and carefully attempted to take it apart. It 's press fitted in such a way that makes impossible to take it apart without damaging it.
I used silicone to fill all the gaps and then press fitted it back together and installed back on the shifter.
Although it dampened the vibration noise a lot , it was still present.
I had noticed increased play in the shifter so I thought sooner or later I'll take it apart and install the Short Shift Kit I had ordered from Gert about a year ago.
After going for a ride I parked the car in the garage and the next time I went to take it out I had no shfting ability at all. It got disconnected from the shifter rod .
I took it apart and ordered two cup bushings from a 928 and installed them in the shifter rod ($10 instead of $240 for the rod) PART # 928-116-145-03
I then installed the Short Shift Kit using new plastic bearings. PART # 999-924-002-40 get Four of them!
Everything went smooth but I didn't like the extra height that the Short Shifter has so I used the grinder and took it down about 1.5".
Now here's a Mod I came with that save's you being stuck and having to call a tow truck.
I made an L bracket to hold the front cup ball of the shifter rod from dropping off the ball on the front frame bracket.
I wondered why this wasn't done before.
It saves you from the cup bushing failure that's only a matter of time before everyone will experience.
All went well, a quick cleanup and out for a test drive. No noise, No vibration, No chirp when quick shifting into 3rd
and about a 25% shorter shifting pattern.
Everything back to perfection!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
~Chris~
Sorry for the hand drawn parts but you get the idea
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/bracket_copy6.jpg)
Here's another option that you could replace both cups with these adjustable ones
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/sbk2.jpg)
Now for those of you who feel really creative go here and design your own, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/105_...s-Sleeves.html
Last edited by c993k; 02-15-2008 at 08:22 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The front ball cup of the front shifter rod can be replaced with a metric spherical rod end. Cut the ball off the front mounting bracket, tap it and use a bolt and spacers to get the rod in the proper position. All bolt-on except the cutting and tapping.
I also modifided the rear end of the front rod (at the shifter) using a spherical rod end, but for this I modified the rod by welding on a piece to mount the rod end in because the factory rod has the ball cup welded on.
Mike
I also modifided the rear end of the front rod (at the shifter) using a spherical rod end, but for this I modified the rod by welding on a piece to mount the rod end in because the factory rod has the ball cup welded on.
Mike
#6
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The front ball cup of the front shifter rod can be replaced with a metric spherical rod end. Cut the ball off the front mounting bracket, tap it and use a bolt and spacers to get the rod in the proper position. All bolt-on except the cutting and tapping.
I also modifided the rear end of the front rod (at the shifter) using a spherical rod end, but for this I modified the rod by welding on a piece to mount the rod end in because the factory rod has the ball cup welded on.
Mike
I also modifided the rear end of the front rod (at the shifter) using a spherical rod end, but for this I modified the rod by welding on a piece to mount the rod end in because the factory rod has the ball cup welded on.
Mike
I've been thinking of doing the same. Do you have any pics of how you modified the fixed rear rod end? How about a good source for rod ends?
Andreas
#7
Guru
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The front ball cup of the front shifter rod can be replaced with a metric spherical rod end. Cut the ball off the front mounting bracket, tap it and use a bolt and spacers to get the rod in the proper position. All bolt-on except the cutting and tapping.
I also modifided the rear end of the front rod (at the shifter) using a spherical rod end, but for this I modified the rod by welding on a piece to mount the rod end in because the factory rod has the ball cup welded on.
Mike
I also modifided the rear end of the front rod (at the shifter) using a spherical rod end, but for this I modified the rod by welding on a piece to mount the rod end in because the factory rod has the ball cup welded on.
Mike
Trending Topics
#8
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My front bushing has quite a bit of up and down play and was getting ready to order the factory busyhing. Would love to do this mod, where can I get the spherical ends? Also, the bushing, if we are talking about the same one, appeared to have a thread end that attached to the shift rod, kind of like a tie-rod.
#9
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Count me in as a strongly interested party should you eventually sell something along these lines. I am really only looking for a fool-proof replacement for the stabilizer rod. I already have the RS shift rod (not shift lever) and love it.
Andreas
#10
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How does the RS shift rod differ from the stock unit?
#11
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Roger,
The shift rod connects the shift lever to the transmission. The stock unit has a rubber isolator that, you guessed it, isolates transmission vibrations from the shift linkage. At the same time, it allows for a noticeable amount of slop. The RS piece (#12 below) utilizes an all-metal universal joint instead. The end result is that it eliminates the slop.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/Linkage.jpg)
Andreas
The shift rod connects the shift lever to the transmission. The stock unit has a rubber isolator that, you guessed it, isolates transmission vibrations from the shift linkage. At the same time, it allows for a noticeable amount of slop. The RS piece (#12 below) utilizes an all-metal universal joint instead. The end result is that it eliminates the slop.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/Linkage.jpg)
Andreas
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I added as much information as I could for now, The idea is, you can bring the shifter rod back to original
form which is quite good for about 6-8 years and spend very little cash, you can buy a new rod and cups from the dealer
for about $280 which is no different than repairing you old one for just $10.
OR get the complete RS Short Shift Kit, or even the Weiltmeister kit uses solid ends.
You can make your own with the adjustable ends,
or create a brand new design with the rods and joints with parts from http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/105_...s-Sleeves.html making it bulletproof.
Either way you will eliminate the vibrating shifter **** problem and many of you will eliminate the 3rd gear shifting chirp.
I hope this helps someone! Good luck.
~Chris~
form which is quite good for about 6-8 years and spend very little cash, you can buy a new rod and cups from the dealer
for about $280 which is no different than repairing you old one for just $10.
OR get the complete RS Short Shift Kit, or even the Weiltmeister kit uses solid ends.
You can make your own with the adjustable ends,
or create a brand new design with the rods and joints with parts from http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/105_...s-Sleeves.html making it bulletproof.
Either way you will eliminate the vibrating shifter **** problem and many of you will eliminate the 3rd gear shifting chirp.
I hope this helps someone! Good luck.
~Chris~
Last edited by c993k; 02-16-2008 at 05:02 AM.
#13
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The front ball cup of the front shifter rod can be replaced with a metric spherical rod end. Cut the ball off the front mounting bracket, tap it and use a bolt and spacers to get the rod in the proper position. All bolt-on except the cutting and tapping.
I also modifided the rear end of the front rod (at the shifter) using a spherical rod end, but for this I modified the rod by welding on a piece to mount the rod end in because the factory rod has the ball cup welded on.
Mike
I also modifided the rear end of the front rod (at the shifter) using a spherical rod end, but for this I modified the rod by welding on a piece to mount the rod end in because the factory rod has the ball cup welded on.
Mike
Also, I did a Google search for Heim joints and found quite a few suppliers, some with teflon, some with bronze, some made from stainless and some aluminum, what did you chose and are these often available locally like thru a bearing supplier?
#14
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hi Chris,
First off, thanks for sharing!
I'm a complete dummy at DIY, would the info on this thread be enough for my shop to understand what to do?
Also, a pic would be fantastic
TIA
Chunn
First off, thanks for sharing!
I'm a complete dummy at DIY, would the info on this thread be enough for my shop to understand what to do?
Also, a pic would be fantastic
TIA
Chunn
#15
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 3,854
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The ball cup from 928motorsports is a neat piece but if you can get the right size ball and order from speedway, you can basically save close to 50$.
OR just wait till Chris finishes his rod kit and buy from him.
OR just wait till Chris finishes his rod kit and buy from him.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)