Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

I think you'll be just fine on both counts,...

JMHO, but I like to change oil more often on turbocharged cars and I'd be going no further than 4K on ANY oil.

jungleboy

Charles & Steve, thanks for all the insight and advice.... much appreciated!

Fred, Long Island

Recent purchase at Walmart....Jug of 15/50 with all of the above ratings.

jimbo3

Just returned 15/50 jugs to Walmart yesterday- not the right stuff. Ordered Brad Penn 20-50.

Charles Navarro

I too used to use only synthetics in every vehicle I owned as it was drummed into my head that synthetics were always better. Sure, a synthetic will provide better protection longer at the bleeding edge (granted it has a similar formulation to it's non-syn counterpart), but it's been my experiece as well as that of many other well respected engine builders that the formulation is just as important if not more so than the base-stock for most users, and that Brad Penn and Swepco are actually performing better even under race conditions than the aforementioned full synthetics.

I use a Motul semi-syn SJ rated oil in my new VWs since it's been giving me excellent UOAs. I have the Brad Penn, which is also a semi-syn) in the 911 as well.

It's worth mentioning, in the SAE paper published on the development of oils for Nascar, that they found they could get the same wear performance out of a synthetic 10w30 as compared to a non-syn 20w50, all additives being equal, if that's of any added help to the syn versus non-syn debate. That's not to say I would ever recommend a 10w30 in an aircooled Porsche...

RallyJon

Thanks for the info, Charles.

velocitylover

Thanks Charles, I'm expecting my Case of Brad Penn 20w50 from LN to show up at my door today !!
(Hope that the 1800 miles on castrol GTX 20w50 after my full engine overhaul didn't hurt things too much !!).Please keep the info on air cooled oil arena developments comming !!


Rob.(89 C-4 # 307)

stubenhocker

Here's an interesting one;

PROCESS F6


Norms & Specifications

Special PORSCHE engine oil.

Conceived to satisfy the PORSCHE latest requirements, particularly the 200h PORSCHE test (911 3.6L engine)


SAE 5W-40
ACEA A3/B3/B4
API SL/CF
PORSCHE
this is on Porsche's recommended list http://www.igol-fr.com/motor-oil-lubricant/motocars.htm

geolab

I do not like to turn the key and start my 993 engine in the morning with a 20W oil.

Just called a friend who trades oil and got his opinion on this thread. (he's a trader, not mech.)

The majority of engine oil bases are the same, what changes in brand is the additives.

There are FIVE major suppliers of engine oil base in the world, filling those oil cans.
There are few wholesale companies and warehousing entities specialized in doing the packaging and mix additives,
and brand the cans.
So you can purchase a MOTUL can that has never been at MOTUL.

MAJOR OIL producers and suppliers.

EXXON-MOBIL fairfax, virginia +Chevron texaco
supplies base for: mobil-esso-kendall-quaker-ford-havoline etc.

SHELL IN THE UK
supplies BP-castrol-shell , and valvoline in Netherlands etc

AGIP ITALY
supplies agip, lots of swiss owned oil brands due to border proximity

TOTAL-FINA-ELF
supplies elf-total-fina-MOTUL-Liqui Moly- IGOL- UNIL OPAL-fuchs etc


Thing is, the Elf you are using in the US is bottled mixed and stirred in the US with chevron base
And the Quaker full synthetic the Swiss is using, is filled with agip or ELF base.

Unfortunately, if an oil can has a min. of 11% of hydrocracked oil, you can brand it with 100% synthetic, (castrol - Mobile court suit)

The p-dealership here (owned by Porsche germany) uses Unil Opal 5W-40 (Opaljet 24S) for the 993 (SL) very very cheap. I use it in mine and I do not have a clue if it is ok.
I would really fancy a 0w-60 with the proper additives though, or why not 0W-70 ...until then.

Stealth 993

Didn't think this discussion would go on for so long.

Has anyone tried Shell Rotella T? It's cheap, & has a lot of additives, comes in both synth & dino.

A lot of turbo Audi guys swear by the stuff, & some Wallmarts carry the 1g synth & dino, about $20 per g for the stuff.

ceboyd

good to know this tidbit

..but has anyone used amsoil in the 993 with success?

I used the last of my old mobil 1 (before reformulated) last year for my oil change... so I'll have to pick up something soon for my spring oil change!

1pcarnut

Charles, I'm a little confused. You recommend not using a racing oil for street use since it is low on detergent and needs frequent changes, but you have 7 Brad-Penn oils offered at your site and all are labeled as racing oils. Can you clarify please and sorry if I missed something earlier in this thread regarding this.

Thanks.

RallyJon

Lots of oils are marketed as "racing oil" yet have plenty of additives for street use and even long drain intervals. That's like asking if every tool with the word "professional" on it should only be used by full-time mechanics.

Charles Navarro

The monograde Brad Penn racing oils are the lower detergent, true racing oils, not meant for long drain intervals. The label "racing oil" pertains more to the requirements of the lubricant for the performance aspect of the engine and in the case of the Brad Penn, is to differentiate these oils from their non-racing line of oils for newer, production vehicles, as the racing oils are just a small portion of their business. They manufacture Motorcraft oils as well as the diesel oils for New Holland, as well as other oils for resale.

Charles Navarro

The old rotella T which is what had a great reputation, is not what is being marketed now. It's now a CJ-4 oil, which I've had two customers so far have failures using as they assumed since it was Rotella that it was good.

If you want to use a cheap, easy to get diesel oil that is readily available, the Mobil 1 Truck and Diesel CI-4 5w40 is one of your only choices for being able to pick up at Autozone or your FLAPS. That is until it gets replaced with the newer CJ-4 Delvac 1...

Pay attention to the labels... if it says SM or CJ-4, to be on the safe side, stay clear. Preferably, if it says ACEA A3/B3 rated 0w40/5w40 with an SJ or SL rating, at the bare minimum you know it is probably good enough for a newer 986/996 based Porsche.