964 / 993 Control Arm Bushings
#91
Chris - payment sent. thanks again - Greg
#94
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THis is a good question, one perhaps I should have addressed in the DIY guide. Jon is right, you will no longer need to final torque the mounting bolts at ride height. The tophat bushes rotate -somewhat- freely unlike the standard rubber bushings that are bonded to both inner and outer sleeve.
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#96
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If I have missed replying to anyones emails or PM's, please let me know and I will get to them. At the end of the week, I will go over all that I have sent to ensure you all have been replied to.
#97
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THis is a good question, one perhaps I should have addressed in the DIY guide. Jon is right, you will no longer need to final torque the mounting bolts at ride height. The tophat bushes rotate -somewhat- freely unlike the standard rubber bushings that are bonded to both inner and outer sleeve.
Andreas
#98
Hey Chris,
Any ETA dates for current orders ? After your England adventure ?
Thanks,
Glenn
Any ETA dates for current orders ? After your England adventure ?
Thanks,
Glenn
#100
Got the parts today - wonderful product and I can't wait to install them. Thanks Chris, you da man
#102
Drifting
Just installed my bushings. Very pleased with the fit. Took me about 6 hours, from jacking the car up to putting it back down on the floor, just taking my time and following Chris' DIY directions. Car already feels more responsive so am really happy with this mod, and it got rid of my shimmy when applying the brakes at freeway speeds.
After cleaning of the rubber from the metal inserts I also took some emory cloth and polished them a little to make them nice and smooth, thought this might reduce wear a little, not sure. The second pic shows before and after. And, that grease is the stickiest stuff I've ever seen in my life!!
After cleaning of the rubber from the metal inserts I also took some emory cloth and polished them a little to make them nice and smooth, thought this might reduce wear a little, not sure. The second pic shows before and after. And, that grease is the stickiest stuff I've ever seen in my life!!
#104
Drifting
Thanks, it's a cold and rainy day here today, so fired up the heater, put on some tunes and went at it. Had a good time and couldn't be more pleased with the results.
#105
Three Wheelin'
Just took my car for a ride with Chris' bushings. Above 30 mph, it seems that the car is easier to put into understeer situation. I thought the cars tires were cold so I heated them up with italian tune-up and tried again. It may be placebo, but I feel that the steering is more precise, easy to force understeer if I lay into the throttle in hard corners and easier to "correct" steerting situations.
I am extremely happy that Chris provided a great product. My rubber bushes were like wet noodles in comparison. If anyone is worried that the upgrade will make the car less docile - dont worry. I think it provides an improvement in steering when going HARD into corners etc. I cant tell a difference at low speeds. (EDIT - the suspension IS more solid feeling over rough pavement in intersections, almost like the sensation of having new shocks)
A few install notes:
1) Make sure you note how the brake dams mount to the arms. I wasted 1 hour installing them incorrectly, only to find that I had to jack the car up and correct.
2) When separating the caster extension off the arm, keep nut on stud and bang with hammer on nut. It will separate caster arm from control arm. Do not pry aluminum.
3) When heating the bushings, I found that if I heat only the center metal bush, I kept rubber smoking to a minimum.
3) Before cutting old bush metal sleeves off control arms, take drill and plunge into old bush to remove rubber from sleeve. I wasted time trying to use hacksaw to cut away. I was lucky on one arm, the drill bit "walked" the rubber out of sleeve when the bit was close to outer sleeve.
4) I used Jasco paint stripper to loosen the rubber. Left for a few hours and with metal brush.
5) For remnant rubber left on center sleeve, you can use torch to burn off and further loosen the rubber before wire wheel the center bush.
6) Invest in a vise and good punch and chisel set. Dont know how anyone could do this job without those tools. I recommend the craftsman punch and chisel set that is on sale for $34.95 - great selection of different sizes.
7) I also took light sand paper and carefully cleaned the aluminum arm before installing new bushes. There was residue (corrosion) left on arm from old bush sleeve. Probably does not matter, but its a chance to smooth out any nicks from bush removal process.
8) File down any imperfections that may have been left from channel lock teeth when removing steel bush.
9) No need to invest in bench grinder for wire wheeling, get one for a drill...
10) Make note of ridge on forward bush before c-clamping the center steel pivot into new bush. It will save you time when reinstalling arm.
11) No need to invest in 11? 13? mm allen wrench to get caster back where it belongs. Just clamp down outer bolt and the caster essentric will not move on you when you torque it down.
Sorry if some of these points are obvious, but it was things that I learned along the way.
Thanks again Chris for the bush solution. I look forward to seeing you again and buying some future products from you. Congrats! TJ
I am extremely happy that Chris provided a great product. My rubber bushes were like wet noodles in comparison. If anyone is worried that the upgrade will make the car less docile - dont worry. I think it provides an improvement in steering when going HARD into corners etc. I cant tell a difference at low speeds. (EDIT - the suspension IS more solid feeling over rough pavement in intersections, almost like the sensation of having new shocks)
A few install notes:
1) Make sure you note how the brake dams mount to the arms. I wasted 1 hour installing them incorrectly, only to find that I had to jack the car up and correct.
2) When separating the caster extension off the arm, keep nut on stud and bang with hammer on nut. It will separate caster arm from control arm. Do not pry aluminum.
3) When heating the bushings, I found that if I heat only the center metal bush, I kept rubber smoking to a minimum.
3) Before cutting old bush metal sleeves off control arms, take drill and plunge into old bush to remove rubber from sleeve. I wasted time trying to use hacksaw to cut away. I was lucky on one arm, the drill bit "walked" the rubber out of sleeve when the bit was close to outer sleeve.
4) I used Jasco paint stripper to loosen the rubber. Left for a few hours and with metal brush.
5) For remnant rubber left on center sleeve, you can use torch to burn off and further loosen the rubber before wire wheel the center bush.
6) Invest in a vise and good punch and chisel set. Dont know how anyone could do this job without those tools. I recommend the craftsman punch and chisel set that is on sale for $34.95 - great selection of different sizes.
7) I also took light sand paper and carefully cleaned the aluminum arm before installing new bushes. There was residue (corrosion) left on arm from old bush sleeve. Probably does not matter, but its a chance to smooth out any nicks from bush removal process.
8) File down any imperfections that may have been left from channel lock teeth when removing steel bush.
9) No need to invest in bench grinder for wire wheeling, get one for a drill...
10) Make note of ridge on forward bush before c-clamping the center steel pivot into new bush. It will save you time when reinstalling arm.
11) No need to invest in 11? 13? mm allen wrench to get caster back where it belongs. Just clamp down outer bolt and the caster essentric will not move on you when you torque it down.
Sorry if some of these points are obvious, but it was things that I learned along the way.
Thanks again Chris for the bush solution. I look forward to seeing you again and buying some future products from you. Congrats! TJ
Last edited by tj90; 01-28-2008 at 03:22 PM.