Can Someone shed some light on "Drop Links" please
12-13-2007, 08:18 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hello Sami,
You have a 993 carrera 4S with an M030 option.
There are two versions of M030. USA and ROW.
USA version, the car sits at 157 millimeters height in the back
ROW version, the car sits at 127 millimeters height in the back
From what I see from plenty of pictures of your car, it surely does not have the SUV height.
So, presumably, you have the ROW version of the M030.
If so, why did you purchase a new set of M030 springs whilst you have them already?
If you wanted new with new, forget my question.
Now for the suspension work, please read the workshop manual section thoroughly, it is sooooo
important. Especially the RS section, where they speak a lot about camber settings, RS settings for racing only.
My ride height rear is between M030 and RS. It is at 116 millimiters today.
I used the original droplinks (M030 ROW) no Problem at all.
If you have m030 and buy shorter droplinks, you are throwing money in my opinion.
For front, any carrera 4 wheel drive has the M030 front droplink, so you have it.
BTW, if you decide more money should go in, you can change them later.
Very Important: Please note on a paper to tell the mechanic to tighten and torque the swaybars, droplinks, and the rear bottom control arm holding the strut with the car DOWN resting on its wheels.
Take care dude
What I would change on a M491 ROW is the front swaybar.
Some came with 20 millimeter, some with 22.
I would check and if you have the 20, I would put the 22 on the list, especially
that you would want to feel the crisp after installing the new suspension.
You have a 993 carrera 4S with an M030 option.
There are two versions of M030. USA and ROW.
USA version, the car sits at 157 millimeters height in the back
ROW version, the car sits at 127 millimeters height in the back
From what I see from plenty of pictures of your car, it surely does not have the SUV height.
So, presumably, you have the ROW version of the M030.
If so, why did you purchase a new set of M030 springs whilst you have them already?
If you wanted new with new, forget my question.
Now for the suspension work, please read the workshop manual section thoroughly, it is sooooo
important. Especially the RS section, where they speak a lot about camber settings, RS settings for racing only.
My ride height rear is between M030 and RS. It is at 116 millimiters today.
I used the original droplinks (M030 ROW) no Problem at all.
If you have m030 and buy shorter droplinks, you are throwing money in my opinion.
For front, any carrera 4 wheel drive has the M030 front droplink, so you have it.
BTW, if you decide more money should go in, you can change them later.
Very Important: Please note on a paper to tell the mechanic to tighten and torque the swaybars, droplinks, and the rear bottom control arm holding the strut with the car DOWN resting on its wheels.
Take care dude
What I would change on a M491 ROW is the front swaybar.
Some came with 20 millimeter, some with 22.
I would check and if you have the 20, I would put the 22 on the list, especially
that you would want to feel the crisp after installing the new suspension.
thanks, but as u can see fr the unflattering photos attached and the fact that my car is canadian, I do have SUV height, therefore I have M030 US.
what I was told by viperbob, is that this means I have the thicker M030 ROW sways ( 22mm fr and 20 back).
sam
hu3om libnan!
12-13-2007, 08:55 PM
#33
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sam,
On one end of the swaybar there should be a paint dot which will identify which bar it is. Unfortunately, I'm not at home right now to say for sure, but I think my M030 swaybar has a light blue paint smear on it. P-car.com shows the correct paint dots if you want to look and confirm the springs while you're under there (but doesn't include the swaybars).
http://p-car.com/susfaq.html
I think maybe the US and ROW M030's had the same swaybars but don't remember for sure. Only keep the US parts catalog on my laptop.
Paul
On one end of the swaybar there should be a paint dot which will identify which bar it is. Unfortunately, I'm not at home right now to say for sure, but I think my M030 swaybar has a light blue paint smear on it. P-car.com shows the correct paint dots if you want to look and confirm the springs while you're under there (but doesn't include the swaybars).
http://p-car.com/susfaq.html
I think maybe the US and ROW M030's had the same swaybars but don't remember for sure. Only keep the US parts catalog on my laptop.
Paul
12-13-2007, 08:57 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
DB73 and the curve in the drop links.
Tarett may sample you on a link (Assuming you provide a credit card) to take to your mechanic...or you to look at it.
Next week, maybe sooner, I will pull off the wheels and take some pics...and post them up.
As to "I think maybe the US and ROW M030's had the same swaybars but don't remember for sure." Don't beat me...this is from memory. US stock bars ar 20mm front 17mm rear. I know for certain M030 (RoW) bars are 22mm front 20mm rear. 993 TT RoW rear bars are 21mm rear, great upgrade...22mm front, 21mm rear, and bunch an added drop link connection hole in the 21mm rear bars to connect the bar for added stiffness, if needed. This is an old ANDIAL trick.
12-14-2007, 12:24 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Agreed! 
The C4S has specific front drop links, shaped like a deformed horseshoe so as to clear the front halfshafts. The HD rears, supplied with the shocks, are ~1/2 the length of the OEM parts.
Before doing the install, pick up a second pair of locknuts for the rear spring perches - lock them top and bottom.
The C4S has specific front drop links, shaped like a deformed horseshoe so as to clear the front halfshafts. The HD rears, supplied with the shocks, are ~1/2 the length of the OEM parts.
Before doing the install, pick up a second pair of locknuts for the rear spring perches - lock them top and bottom.
Also, any chance u have a pic of the "rear spring [erches" that I should lock down?
thanks,
sam
12-14-2007, 02:05 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Sam,
The lower (black) locknut is the one added, as the normal install has one only on top of the drop link mount to also act as a spring perch. If you add the lower one, some very minor hand filing on the mount is necessary to assure that the nut tightens flush with the mount. The principle is that with nuts either side of the mount, any rotational force on the mount tightens it to one nut or the other: not true with a single nut.
You might also want to drill & tie-wrap the rear springs to the upper mount (see pic) this keeps them in place when the car is lifted ...
In the installed pic, the drop link is absolutely vertical when the suspension is loaded - not off angle as shown with the suspension drooped due to lifting.
Cheers ...
The lower (black) locknut is the one added, as the normal install has one only on top of the drop link mount to also act as a spring perch. If you add the lower one, some very minor hand filing on the mount is necessary to assure that the nut tightens flush with the mount. The principle is that with nuts either side of the mount, any rotational force on the mount tightens it to one nut or the other: not true with a single nut.
You might also want to drill & tie-wrap the rear springs to the upper mount (see pic) this keeps them in place when the car is lifted ...
In the installed pic, the drop link is absolutely vertical when the suspension is loaded - not off angle as shown with the suspension drooped due to lifting.
Cheers ...
