vjd3

Well, that's at least four Rennlist 993's that Mark has done the top end on now :-)

Mine's doing quite well.

pedsurg

Thanks Neil. Could you elaborate on what exactly you had done (and did not do) and the approx cost.
Did you notice any difference on the ride home??
jack

nsully

Jack- in my case the guides were quite worn. Play in the exhaust was around
.030, and the intake .006-.008.The valves spec. was good and only took a grind. So, a complete valve job, rings, clutch components which included the fork, tube, and pilot. gasket kit including case thru-bolt seals, chain limiters, sound pad, power steering belt, vent gasket, thermo o-ring, 4 wheel alignment, and a bunch of little stuff that is a part if the job. Engine is very clean, with all new hardware including stainless on the intake bolts. Keep in mind that I supplied the clutch components (Sunset). Total cost just a hair under $4,000.

The change is dramatic! Smoother, Stronger, and much more fun. The most noticable change is in the 4K RPM and above. Before I thought my power was good with a big jump from 4-6. That is not so noticable now. The whole range is much stronger and yes it still goes as you pass 4000 RPM. It is just stronger before you get there!
I am very pleased, and the alignment was an added bonus. My steering wheel is finally centered.

AOW162435

I am glad to hear that the end result was well worth the distance. Now that your clutch is new, what will we do over the winter?



Andreas

pedsurg

Bravo!!
very well done indeed

bluejam

Please clarify for me somebody.
nsully had valve guides, complete valve job and rings. Is that what is considered a "top-end"?
For $4,000?...with clutch?

Tell me it is so.

fast_freddy

It is so.

vjd3

Mine was just under $5000 with RS clutch and LWF, M030 and Bilstein HD suspension installed and aligned, and a 60k service, plus a couple of other minor things -- AC/oil resistors, etc.

(Not including suspension and clutch parts, of course.)

NP993

X2

Mark did the valve job on my 993 exactly a year before I bought it, along with a bunch of miscellaneous seals, PS belt, etc. My car runs beautifully, does not burn or leak ANY oil, and you simply cannot tell that the engine's been out of the car. I have never been able to spot any hack work or shortcuts, and I have a very discriminating eye for that kind of stuff. So here's another vote for Mark. And honestly I really don't want to even say what the bill was...I think there are guys here who've paid more for an oil change and alignment.

bluejam

Well, up towards the $5,000 bill for all that work done sounds fair to me and is quite a relief to hear. 10k-12k just seems outrageous, no matter how good the work.
My '95 has 90k and does not leak or burn any oil and sure seems to run strong. Hoping to at least get her over 120k before dropping the motor. Hoping the clutch can last also.
Great thread...thanks to all.

aaronazevedo

Freddy -

Just saw your car today, as I spent some time at the shop. He'll be getting my business as well! Very excited.

Aaron

FLYT993

8k-12k is what I hear most often here in CA, for quality work. The fact that he can do exceptional work for half of that or less, is simply staggering. At those prices, it would pay to SHIP the car to him, buy a one way ticket, and then drive back!!!!

race911

What's outrageous? Last I checked no one was pointing a gun to anyone's head for auto repair work. I did a hell of a lot of 911 engine and transmission work when I came back here to go to law school starting 20 years ago. I basically charged half what the going rate was. (This was the grand old days of 2.7's pulling studs by the minute.) But if you took me out of "working out of the family garage and living for free"......well, do the math on how much it takes to run a shop and have a little left over for yourself at the end of the day. Which I had done the three years prior. Tough gig.

fast_freddy

Was it on the lift? Was he ranting about that ***** from Vermont?

os993

Lads,

I'm at 126k and still running strong. My oil consumption is minimal and I see plenty of miles ahead of me.

I totally understand the issue here and that these cars are old (mine is 10+yrs) and parts will wear and tear, but for those of you in the 50k-80k mile range, don't be sweating bullets just yet!

The golden question is what I'll do if I need the repair. Money is a bit tight these days, with the economy and having my wife stay home taking care of two little ones (man, shopping at Whole Foods and Baby Gap is worse than buying Porsche parts - LOL!!), so I don't know what I'll do when the call comes. In the end, I probably will take my car to Jerry Woods (as I have been doing for all my major service) and most likely get the job done. I'm hoping it really isn't close to $10k though...

These are beautiful collectable cars - I intend to keep mine for quite some time, so looks like I'm in it for the long haul...

Let's see how I'm doing at 150k miles... ; )