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Problem With Bilstein Rear Shock Drop Link

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Old 10-22-2007, 08:05 PM
  #31  
Martin S.
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Cool Damn it, why...

didn't I think of that. Other Eric, right on the money again..it makes so much sens now.
Old 10-22-2007, 11:51 PM
  #32  
Dr. No
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Originally Posted by quasr
Per our conversation on the phone today these are the recommendations when installing the Bilstein shocks on the Porsche 993.

“Shorter E4-XB2-Z002A00 sway bar end link provided with the shock is to be used with original equipment (U.S.A.) sway bar. If equipped with RSR or European sway bar use original link”

Thanks and best regards,
Scott MacDonald
Eastern Regional Manager
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America

That pretty much wraps up why I had the problem. Scott explained that when the original springs and sway bars are not used and the 993 is lowered, it puts a tremendous load on the sway bar and could cause it to rotate under stress. My mechanic is redeemed now that I believe he did not just fail to properly tighten the locking collar. I hope Viper Bob is reading our postings on this matter and will just include a set of new OEM read sway bar drop links instead of the shortened ones. Hope this saves someone else out there the trouble I went through and potential danger that could result in the sway bar becoming disconnected.
Sorry, but I think this is totally wrong. I had OEM drop links (which are an inch longer and have different length threads on each end) to replace a busted Bilstein short one on my M030/turbo sway/HD setup. A very well-regarded mechanic would not put them on the car, they were too long, and the threads on one end were not long enough to secure the locking nut to. They just didn't fit with the HD mounts.

This seems to happen to a lot of 993 owners who take care to get decent mechanics to install their stuff. I am pretty peeved that BS does not include a $14 locking collar in this kit to prevent this.
Old 10-23-2007, 12:26 AM
  #33  
2ndof2
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Hey the other eric, First I gotta ask: Who is the other eric...you know, the other one? Anyway that post of yours makes some good sense.
What I meant to say is the sway bar is ABOVE the lower A arm. So apparently my car isn't low enough to have the sways below the A arms and therefore, I don't have the swivelling drop link mount problem.
The reason I didn't go with a lower ride height had everything to do with a few highly experienced Porsche dealership alignment guys tell me that if I went too low without all the RS bits I'd have some issues getting the kinematic toe settings right. I never considered the drop link issue until many months later when I started reading about it here. So perhaps I'll never have the problems with the mounts. That way I can go back to just worrying about my clogged SAI ports and worn valve guides!
Old 10-23-2007, 10:43 AM
  #34  
TheOtherEric
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quasr- To answer you PM here, your pic shows your sway bar is mounted ABOVE the lower a-arm. And you have the short drop links installed. So you have the right parts there, and this setup is not normally prone to rotating the drop link. So why did yours rotate? Two possibilities:

1. Your wrench didn't tighten down the lockring enough; or
2. Your wrench didn't have the drop link rotated to the proper position before tightening down the lockring.

Either way, it was his fault.
Old 10-23-2007, 10:45 AM
  #35  
TheOtherEric
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Originally Posted by 2ndof2
Hey the other eric, First I gotta ask: Who is the other eric...you know, the other one? Anyway that post of yours makes some good sense...
I pretty much go by OE here in chicago since there are other Eric's in the Audi club and Porsche club (like "Eric in Chicago"). Glad the sketch helped!
Old 10-23-2007, 01:54 PM
  #36  
993USMC
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This thread is not making the choice to upgrade my suspension any easier... I don't want to be paranoid about things going "clunk' or "snap" at the end of the day. It's all great info though, thanks for sharing.

Another question while the immortal suspension topic is up for debate:
-Can I use my standard US SUV springs (M029?) with the adjustable Bilsteins (with extra threads) and still lower my car to ROW or RS height?

Thanks,
Doug
Old 10-23-2007, 02:01 PM
  #37  
Dr. No
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Originally Posted by 993USMC
This thread is not making the choice to upgrade my suspension any easier... I don't want to be paranoid about things going "clunk' or "snap" at the end of the day. It's all great info though, thanks for sharing.

Another question while the immortal suspension topic is up for debate:
-Can I use my standard US SUV springs (M029?) with the adjustable Bilsteins (with extra threads) and still lower my car to ROW or RS height?
1. I think the lesson is get the "optional" locking collars and make sure the install is done by someone who lines the stuff up correctly. Most of these broken drop link problems seem to stem from improper installations.

2. I don't think you gan get to ROW height with SUV springs. New springs are a small part of the cost of the whole deal, so I wouldn't fool with them.
Old 10-23-2007, 02:08 PM
  #38  
JasonF
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Originally Posted by 993USMC
Can I use my standard US SUV springs (M029?) with the adjustable Bilsteins (with extra threads) and still lower my car to ROW or RS height?
I think the max lowering you'll get with stock suv springs and the Bilstein's with the extra threads is 10-15mm (1/2 an inch).
Old 10-23-2007, 04:54 PM
  #39  
2ndof2
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If theothereric is correct it seems that the only issue with drop links and mounts is if you drop your car down so low that you wind up running your sway bar below the lower A arms.

I had a discussion with my mechanic who has installed a bunch of these kits and he said he's always set the cars up at RS height but that the sway bars have always been installed above the lower A arms. He explained that there haven't been any incidents of drop links breaking or mounts moving on his customers' cars and I believe him. I did pass along the second set of locking washers suggestion if the bars are mounted below the A arms for future reference. I suspect my car will be just fine but I'd definately have gotten the second set of lock washers installed the first time round knowing what I know now. So for those of you looking at going with PSS9s you probably should always get the extra lock washers even if the sway is mounted above the lower A arms - just to be on the safe side.
Old 11-01-2007, 08:32 PM
  #40  
quasr
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Default Locking Collars

While having a tire replaced today I had the mechanic install the two additional locking collars Bilstein in NC had sold me. Only problem being the collars do not fit over the lower end of the shock which necessitates complete removal of the shock assembly, disassembly of the works and adding the lower collar first then rebuilding the shock/strut assembly. Three hours of labor.

Anyone interested in the Bilstein HD shock setup who has been following this thread should order the extra collars for the rear early and have the complete installation done once and for all. Oh, forgot to say it also cost me a 4 wheel alignment after the strut reinstall.
Old 11-01-2007, 09:12 PM
  #41  
Martin S.
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Cool Yup...that is the drill....

No other way to do it.....sad but true. 3 hours of labor to disassemble the rear shocks seems like a bargain to me.
Old 11-01-2007, 10:24 PM
  #42  
e9stibi
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I ordered the rings yesterday and hope they will be delivered before my scheduled installation in 10 days.

Thanks again for making me aware of the issue and taking preventative action.

rennlist rocks!
Erik
Old 11-01-2007, 10:49 PM
  #43  
autobonrun
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If someone gets a chance during an install to take a photo of a correct setup with all the locking collars in place it would be greatly appreciated.
Old 11-02-2007, 12:41 AM
  #44  
e9stibi
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I have not installed the PSS9s yet but I would expect that it looks like on the photo in kkim's post

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...op+link+damage

Erik
Old 11-02-2007, 11:56 AM
  #45  
TheOtherEric
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Originally Posted by e9stibi
I have not installed the PSS9s yet but I would expect that it looks like on the photo in kkim's post

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...op+link+damage

Erik
Almost. In his pic, the car isn't lowered much, so the sway bar is mounted ABOVE the lower a-arm, and his setup is correct. However, if the sway bar is mounted BELOW the lower a-arm (very low car), then you need to install the drop link mount all the way down at the very very bottom of the threads. You need the drop link mount as low as possible so the drop link can clear the lower a-arms.


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