chris walrod

On the front std dampers, there are threads but for purposes of corner balancing more than ride height adjustment. In that image, you cannot see the threads due to the crud build-up.

Bob usually includes extra lock rings as they are not part of the 'kit' that Bilstein sells, rather added by those to know of these troubles.

Also, Bob likes to furnish all of the plastic clips, clamps and doo-dads that install on the replacement shocks. Getting the old original plastic off of the std shocks is not worth the time since new plastic costs so little.

quasr

I know for sure the clips and extra parts described in the DIY were not in the kit I purchased on Ebay. Following the instructions, I purchased the brake line clips a the dealership and provided them to the mechanic. This was the first time I used this mechanic and had a clutch change out at the same time. So far I have found the cruise control does not work, the oil level gauge no longer works, stuff like that. Just hoping they were installed correctly.

GeoT3

One thing about Bilstein's drop link mount set up without another lock ring is that the drop link mount on the shock can rotate into the half shaft and its rubber bellows... and cause great damage to both... I aways kept a close eye on mine after every drive and also marked the mount with a marker to check any movement...

the drop link has to be vertical and should not be loaded.

TomF

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. There are several threads about adding additional locking rings to the setup on installation. Bilstein gave away sets of extra locking collars on occasion before they realized that everyone needed them and then they started selling them at a modest price. They are cheap, less than $20 for a pair IIRC, and need to be installed. We need to step up the pressure on them to include them originally in the kit. The cost is minimal to them and it is poor business to do otherwise.

Texas993

I checked my set up last night after reading this string. It is fine. My VB kit appears to have locking rings on the rear.

ed devinney

It would be good if the HDs and PSS9s came with the extra locking rings by default. The extra rings would add peace of mind but I think there isn't a problem without them, if properly installed. I've got about 1k miles on my HDs and have seen no evidence of the mount moving (I used liberal paint marks).

I used an aluminum drift and a hammer to set the locking rings in place. You don't want to beat them into submission but IMO you do want to make sure they are seated and not going to move.

autobonrun

When I change my shocks, I will definitely add both locking collars. I don't want to have to look under my car every time I complete a drive. If it does move, then what, do another install? I don't want that hanging over me.

It sounds like each side needs two of these locking collars. Are there any old posts that have pictures of the collars correctly installed on the drop links? I've searched and didn't see any photos.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Ed:

When the PSS-9's came out in 1998, we gave Bilstein a whole list of things that needed improvement; one of which was the inclusion of sufficient locking rings to secure the swaybar mount on the shocks. This was based on using RSR, Moton and JRZ shocks on these cars. That list was summarily ignored until they took notice of our upper perch kits which are now included in every kit. (They still ignored the rest of the suggestions we offered)

The HD shocks still don't include that extra pair of lock rings, even after all this time and a LOT of feedback from shops. We have been providing them since '98 since one really must have them for a proper installation.

There are specific spanner wrenches made specifically to turn & lock those rings and I do suggest those in lieu of using a drift & hammer. I cannot bring myself to beat on things except as a very last resort.

ed devinney

Thanks for the info on the PSS9s, I didn't know they came with the extra rings SOP. They are of course the 100% solution, have to do that eventually, before my next alignment.

Agreed on the wrenches, my local race supplier was out of stock and I let myself get hurried. In my own defense I must say that I didn't beat on anything, although once you introduce a hammer maybe beating is a given :-) ? No visible mars on either the drift or the collar.

quasr

I pressed the ball stud back into place and was able to reinstall the rubber sleeve. I then turned the link mount on the shock back to proper alignment with the sway bar hammer/drift pinned the locking collar tight. Seems the collar was quite loose on the right side. I then checked the left side and found it was tight. I marked both sides for future reference and will order another set of collars. Thanks all for your valuable input. By the way, it seems there is no direct contact with Bilstein, only contact with their main distributor in the U.S.

quasr

Greetings guys and gals. Reference my original posting regarding installation of Bilstein HD shock, M030 European springs and the M030 front/rear sway bars with shortened sway bar drop links, here is what I learned today. I contacted Bilstein in NC and while ordering the additional locking collars ($14.00 ea) and spanner wrench ($7.00) for the rear shock, I mentioned my weekend woes regarding the passenger rear sway bar drop link platform (not sure the technical name) having rotated and popped out one end of the shortened drop link that Viper bob had supplied with the Ebay suspension kit. The parts guy immediately asked me if I had the stock OEM springs and sway bars on my 993 and I replied that I had also installed the European M030 lowering springs and matching M030 sway bars that were supplied in a package buy. This is what I was told and later emailed regarding the shorter links supplied in the kit from Vortexmotors:

Per our conversation on the phone today these are the recommendations when installing the Bilstein shocks on the Porsche 993.

“Shorter E4-XB2-Z002A00 sway bar end link provided with the shock is to be used with original equipment (U.S.A.) sway bar. If equipped with RSR or European sway bar use original link”

Thanks and best regards,
Scott MacDonald
Eastern Regional Manager
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America

That pretty much wraps up why I had the problem. Scott explained that when the original springs and sway bars are not used and the 993 is lowered, it puts a tremendous load on the sway bar and could cause it to rotate under stress. My mechanic is redeemed now that I believe he did not just fail to properly tighten the locking collar. I hope Viper Bob is reading our postings on this matter and will just include a set of new OEM read sway bar drop links instead of the shortened ones. Hope this saves someone else out there the trouble I went through and potential danger that could result in the sway bar becoming disconnected.

TheOtherEric

Sorry quasr but I don't fully understand your post. A couple things:

1. Bilstein guy's statement is simply wrong. The bar you're using doesn't determine what drop links you use. If the car is lowered (to ~RS height) then the sway bar goes under the lower a-arm and as a result you need special non-standard links, for example the RS links, which are long. If you don't lower the car too much, then the sway bar goes ABOVE the lower a-arm and you use the shorter links like you did.

2. It's not Viperbob's responsibility to change what links are supplied in the bilstein pss9 kit, because the links are supplied by Bilstein, not VB. And the shorter links are the correct links in certain applications, but probably not for most applications. So that's an issue left for us to sort out really.

Here's the deal: Bilstein assumes we're only going to lower the car 0.5" to 1", in which case we install the sway bar above the lower a-arm and use their short links. If you go lower, they disavow anything having to do with it; you need you find your own links (i.e. RS links) and PURCHASE a set of lockrings from them to properly secure the mount. That's what they told me when I complained about their inadequate locking of the mount.

TheOtherEric

p.s. your mechanic probably did screw up the install. Sorry.

2ndof2

I'm a little confused about the drop-link issue (M030 vs USA) and its relevance to the movement of the mounts on the bilstein assembly. I had my car's ride height set at what was reported to me as being "top of the range" for RS specs. I have the M030 bars (and links I assume) yet my drop links sit above the lower A arms. I haven't noticed any rotation of the mounts and have the mounts and threads marked to inspect for any movement. I didn't see any indications of the sway bars having hit the top of the lower A arms either. I suspect if that happens hard enough all hell breaks loose and your drop links go kaput!

TheOtherEric

2ndof2: I made this sketch to help explain the issue a year or two ago. You can see that when the sway bar is mounted above the lower a-arm, you don't get much horizontal force on the drop link mount. But when the sway bar is under the a-arm, there's definitely a horizontal component of the force, and that's what causes the mount to start moving.