Iris Blue Paint Code?
10-19-2007, 02:58 PM
#3
Drifting
There are two different codes for Iris Blue paint, my 95' is L39U, from my understanding the 96's and up are L39N
L39U = Iris Blue Metallic
L39N = Iris Blue Pearl Metallic
Hope this helps.
ZP44
L39U = Iris Blue Metallic
L39N = Iris Blue Pearl Metallic
Hope this helps.
ZP44
10-19-2007, 03:59 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
L39V as in VEEEEEEEE.
You can CLEARLY see it's a V from this pic: (when I was flushing my brakes...)
http://ifly.freeyellow.com/miscell/d...s/image004.htm
*Sometimes* (moreoften on "Paint supplier websites") - I've seen it listed as L39N.
It's sometimes referred to as "Iris Blue Metallic" and/or "Iris Blue Pearl".
Frankly, I think the actual car paint is both a mixture of metallic AND pearl -- coz as we know, when you walk around the car - and depending on whether it's in shade or sun - the color/hue changes depending on both the conditions and viewing angle.
Gerry
You can CLEARLY see it's a V from this pic: (when I was flushing my brakes...)
http://ifly.freeyellow.com/miscell/d...s/image004.htm
*Sometimes* (moreoften on "Paint supplier websites") - I've seen it listed as L39N.
It's sometimes referred to as "Iris Blue Metallic" and/or "Iris Blue Pearl".
Frankly, I think the actual car paint is both a mixture of metallic AND pearl -- coz as we know, when you walk around the car - and depending on whether it's in shade or sun - the color/hue changes depending on both the conditions and viewing angle.
Gerry
10-19-2007, 09:01 PM
#5
10-20-2007, 08:50 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Hi,
Yep, the 'code' should be by the brake fluid resevoir - just like in my pic.
DO remember, though, the OEM paint job is 10+ years old -- so it will have oxidized and, thus, will NOT match the paint that they will 'formulate' according to the specified 'ingredients' that 'make up' a batch of L39V/N. This is not too much of a biggie if you are getting the WHOLE car repainted. It IS a big deal, however, if you are just getting a PART or SECTION of the car re-done - such as the nose, hood, etc. If you are just painting a PART then the body-guyz will probably use the OEM-L39V paint formulation as a 'starting point' and then adjust the formulation so to match the current color/hue of the existing 10-yr old paint. It may take several tries just to get it right - but if they are anyway half decent body-guyz they should be able to achieve a 'perfect match'.
DO remember, tho', before you fork over your $$$ - view (with a critical eye) the car in the paint-shop/garage AND/OR shade AND also out in direct sunlight. Look along the EDGES to check to make sure that the clear-coat layer 'continues' around seams and corners. Run your hand over seams and edges - they should be smooth. If they're not then someone goofed. Also, look VERY carefully over the whole paintjob looking for 'fisheyes' (bad surface preparation) and orange-peel (many factors contribute to this) and 'blotching' and 'runs' amongst other 'imperfections'. Trust me, the first time you do a wash and wax job you are going to come across 'imperfections' that you are going to have to deal with or live with -- so better to SEE them at the paint shop -- not elsewhere.
Hope it turns out fab for you -- remember we'll wanna see pix.
Gerry
Yep, the 'code' should be by the brake fluid resevoir - just like in my pic.
DO remember, though, the OEM paint job is 10+ years old -- so it will have oxidized and, thus, will NOT match the paint that they will 'formulate' according to the specified 'ingredients' that 'make up' a batch of L39V/N. This is not too much of a biggie if you are getting the WHOLE car repainted. It IS a big deal, however, if you are just getting a PART or SECTION of the car re-done - such as the nose, hood, etc. If you are just painting a PART then the body-guyz will probably use the OEM-L39V paint formulation as a 'starting point' and then adjust the formulation so to match the current color/hue of the existing 10-yr old paint. It may take several tries just to get it right - but if they are anyway half decent body-guyz they should be able to achieve a 'perfect match'.
DO remember, tho', before you fork over your $$$ - view (with a critical eye) the car in the paint-shop/garage AND/OR shade AND also out in direct sunlight. Look along the EDGES to check to make sure that the clear-coat layer 'continues' around seams and corners. Run your hand over seams and edges - they should be smooth. If they're not then someone goofed. Also, look VERY carefully over the whole paintjob looking for 'fisheyes' (bad surface preparation) and orange-peel (many factors contribute to this) and 'blotching' and 'runs' amongst other 'imperfections'. Trust me, the first time you do a wash and wax job you are going to come across 'imperfections' that you are going to have to deal with or live with -- so better to SEE them at the paint shop -- not elsewhere.
Hope it turns out fab for you -- remember we'll wanna see pix.
Gerry
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10-21-2007, 01:01 AM
#8
Racer
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Gerry,
Yes they are going to paint the whole car. It is a long story, but I have a few porsches, and a very good friend wanted to buy one, his brother is a painter and I was going to have him spay the front of my car.
After trying to decide on a price to paint the front of my car and sell him my car, we decided he would have his brother paint the whole car and pay much less for my other car.
I am going to have the bumperettes removed and an other than that, all stock.
I will definetely post many pics
Yes they are going to paint the whole car. It is a long story, but I have a few porsches, and a very good friend wanted to buy one, his brother is a painter and I was going to have him spay the front of my car.
After trying to decide on a price to paint the front of my car and sell him my car, we decided he would have his brother paint the whole car and pay much less for my other car.
I am going to have the bumperettes removed and an other than that, all stock.
I will definetely post many pics
