Stone Guard adhesive removal
10-11-2007, 01:39 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Black 993
For application: Use a TINY amount of baby shampoo...just a couple of drops in a quart of water in a spray bottle. Get the surface of the car very wet, get your hands even wetter and peel the backing off while spraying the adhesive side of the film. Don't touch the adhesive side with dry hands as it will leave fingerprints. Lay it on the fender and you should be able to slide it around to get it into position. Needless to say the fender should be spotless when you do this. It's OK to peel the film back up and spray more water underneath. Once it's positioned GENTLY use the edge of a credit card to squeeze the water out from one of the edges (about 1" in or so), IIRC I started at the top edge. That should make the film adhere pretty well. Then carefullfy work the credit card across the film to push out as much water and air as possible. It may look like it won't fit the curve of the fender but as you work down the film it will gently stretch to fit. Use the credit card only on the film, NOT the paint. If it's not working right carefully pull up the loose end and spray more water behind it and start again. If you keep it wet you'll have lots of tries so don't worry if you screw it up. Spraying more water on the outside helps to make the credit card slide easily as you squeeze water underneath out. You should be able to squeeze almost all the water solution out. What little remains will evaporate through the film overnight. Obviously you want to work out all the bubbles of air and water. Repeat on the otherside (it will probably take half the time the first one did) and let it dry for at least a couple of hours before driving and a day or two before washing the car.
By the way, a very diluted alcohol solution is OK.. It won't cause hazing and is frequently used by the Pros. The alcohol sets up the adhesive VERY fast so a little is useful if you are having touble getting parts (like corners or edges) to stick. Just pull the offending edge away from the fender a little bit and give the underside of the film a shot with the alcohol solution and use the card to squeeze it down. I suppose it's possible to do the whole thing with the alcohol solution but you'll have to be really good at this so I'd just use it for touch ups and problem areas.
The fenders are pretty easy so you don't need a lot of skill to do it right, I know because I've done it. Now the mirrors on the other hand.....don't ask! One hint, it's tempting to use more soap but one of the tricks is to not get soap bubbles under the film - it can be murder to get them all out. A tiny amount of soap is enough and don't shake the bottle. Also, it helps if the car and film are a little warm - but not hot, the solution will dry too fast. Good luck!
For application: Use a TINY amount of baby shampoo...just a couple of drops in a quart of water in a spray bottle. Get the surface of the car very wet, get your hands even wetter and peel the backing off while spraying the adhesive side of the film. Don't touch the adhesive side with dry hands as it will leave fingerprints. Lay it on the fender and you should be able to slide it around to get it into position. Needless to say the fender should be spotless when you do this. It's OK to peel the film back up and spray more water underneath. Once it's positioned GENTLY use the edge of a credit card to squeeze the water out from one of the edges (about 1" in or so), IIRC I started at the top edge. That should make the film adhere pretty well. Then carefullfy work the credit card across the film to push out as much water and air as possible. It may look like it won't fit the curve of the fender but as you work down the film it will gently stretch to fit. Use the credit card only on the film, NOT the paint. If it's not working right carefully pull up the loose end and spray more water behind it and start again. If you keep it wet you'll have lots of tries so don't worry if you screw it up. Spraying more water on the outside helps to make the credit card slide easily as you squeeze water underneath out. You should be able to squeeze almost all the water solution out. What little remains will evaporate through the film overnight. Obviously you want to work out all the bubbles of air and water. Repeat on the otherside (it will probably take half the time the first one did) and let it dry for at least a couple of hours before driving and a day or two before washing the car.
By the way, a very diluted alcohol solution is OK.. It won't cause hazing and is frequently used by the Pros. The alcohol sets up the adhesive VERY fast so a little is useful if you are having touble getting parts (like corners or edges) to stick. Just pull the offending edge away from the fender a little bit and give the underside of the film a shot with the alcohol solution and use the card to squeeze it down. I suppose it's possible to do the whole thing with the alcohol solution but you'll have to be really good at this so I'd just use it for touch ups and problem areas.
The fenders are pretty easy so you don't need a lot of skill to do it right, I know because I've done it. Now the mirrors on the other hand.....don't ask! One hint, it's tempting to use more soap but one of the tricks is to not get soap bubbles under the film - it can be murder to get them all out. A tiny amount of soap is enough and don't shake the bottle. Also, it helps if the car and film are a little warm - but not hot, the solution will dry too fast. Good luck!
10-11-2007, 02:01 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
I just removed the stoneguards on my black 96 and tried two methods (one per side).
1. I used a blow dryer (not a heat gun which gets too hot) and found that 50% of the adhesive stayed on the car and 50% on the stoneguard. I started by heating 1-2" of the stoneguard and starting pulling from the top edged and applying 3M as I pulled. Pulling and applying at the same time is key. Not bad at all. Took me 20 minutes to get the whole piece off and another 20 minutes getting the rest of the adhesive off the car. I would spray 3M on one section of the adhesive, wait 10-15 seconds and then rubbed/wiped with an old 100% cotton towel. Perfect results without any scratches. I did wax the car before I started - I wanted to see the difference between a waxed car and the paint underneath the stoneguard. Non that I could see.
2. I followed the same technique as above but I used OPPS. It is an adhesive/wax/lipstick, etc..... remover that I found in my local auto parts store as well as my local hardware store. It worked much better than the 3M stuff and was easier to apply because it is in a non-pressurized can with a small nozzle that lets you direct the stuff directly on the edge that is being pulled away. It took me on 15 minutes to get the stoneguard off and only 20% was left on the car. This stuff is super.
I hope this helps since I finally pulled the trigger and changed the stoneguards after reading all the wonderful threads on this topic.
Tom
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
96 Cabrio
Turbo twists
Euro RS splitters
Carbon fiber air box
Rennspeed pedals
Fabspeed exhaust
1. I used a blow dryer (not a heat gun which gets too hot) and found that 50% of the adhesive stayed on the car and 50% on the stoneguard. I started by heating 1-2" of the stoneguard and starting pulling from the top edged and applying 3M as I pulled. Pulling and applying at the same time is key. Not bad at all. Took me 20 minutes to get the whole piece off and another 20 minutes getting the rest of the adhesive off the car. I would spray 3M on one section of the adhesive, wait 10-15 seconds and then rubbed/wiped with an old 100% cotton towel. Perfect results without any scratches. I did wax the car before I started - I wanted to see the difference between a waxed car and the paint underneath the stoneguard. Non that I could see.
2. I followed the same technique as above but I used OPPS. It is an adhesive/wax/lipstick, etc..... remover that I found in my local auto parts store as well as my local hardware store. It worked much better than the 3M stuff and was easier to apply because it is in a non-pressurized can with a small nozzle that lets you direct the stuff directly on the edge that is being pulled away. It took me on 15 minutes to get the stoneguard off and only 20% was left on the car. This stuff is super.
I hope this helps since I finally pulled the trigger and changed the stoneguards after reading all the wonderful threads on this topic.
Tom
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
96 Cabrio
Turbo twists
Euro RS splitters
Carbon fiber air box
Rennspeed pedals
Fabspeed exhaust
10-11-2007, 02:19 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
oh yeah...........
In applying the stoneguards I used a 50% water and 50% rubbing alcohol plus 3 drops of car shampoo solution. After struggling a bit with one side, I found that the more solution you use, the easier it is to position the guard. Also key is to spray your fingers wich get wet anyway, but spray them beofre you peel ack the paper backing. Spray, a ton of the solution (am I repeating myself??) and then when all is OK, GENTLY use your car tinting squeege to begin to pull the liquid out from behind the guard. If you press too hard at first, the guard will begin to shif, you will then have to peel back and apply more solution............. ask me how I know. Once it is partially squeeged, then you can get the rest. Start from the middle and squeeze outward at all times to avoid bubbles. I ended up with one small buble and used a pin to pop a hole and then squeezed the air out.
Tom
In applying the stoneguards I used a 50% water and 50% rubbing alcohol plus 3 drops of car shampoo solution. After struggling a bit with one side, I found that the more solution you use, the easier it is to position the guard. Also key is to spray your fingers wich get wet anyway, but spray them beofre you peel ack the paper backing. Spray, a ton of the solution (am I repeating myself??) and then when all is OK, GENTLY use your car tinting squeege to begin to pull the liquid out from behind the guard. If you press too hard at first, the guard will begin to shif, you will then have to peel back and apply more solution............. ask me how I know. Once it is partially squeeged, then you can get the rest. Start from the middle and squeeze outward at all times to avoid bubbles. I ended up with one small buble and used a pin to pop a hole and then squeezed the air out.
Tom
10-11-2007, 02:30 PM
#19
Drifting
oh yeah...........
In applying the stoneguards I used a 50% water and 50% rubbing alcohol plus 3 drops of car shampoo solution. After struggling a bit with one side, I found that the more solution you use, the easier it is to position the guard. Also key is to spray your fingers wich get wet anyway, but spray them beofre you peel ack the paper backing. Spray, a ton of the solution (am I repeating myself??) and then when all is OK, GENTLY use your car tinting squeege to begin to pull the liquid out from behind the guard. If you press too hard at first, the guard will begin to shif, you will then have to peel back and apply more solution............. ask me how I know. Once it is partially squeeged, then you can get the rest. Start from the middle and squeeze outward at all times to avoid bubbles. I ended up with one small buble and used a pin to pop a hole and then squeezed the air out.
Tom
In applying the stoneguards I used a 50% water and 50% rubbing alcohol plus 3 drops of car shampoo solution. After struggling a bit with one side, I found that the more solution you use, the easier it is to position the guard. Also key is to spray your fingers wich get wet anyway, but spray them beofre you peel ack the paper backing. Spray, a ton of the solution (am I repeating myself??) and then when all is OK, GENTLY use your car tinting squeege to begin to pull the liquid out from behind the guard. If you press too hard at first, the guard will begin to shif, you will then have to peel back and apply more solution............. ask me how I know. Once it is partially squeeged, then you can get the rest. Start from the middle and squeeze outward at all times to avoid bubbles. I ended up with one small buble and used a pin to pop a hole and then squeezed the air out.
Tom
10-11-2007, 06:41 PM
#20
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
i use "rapid-remover" to remove adhesive, and "rapid-tac" when applying (both to the race car and the porsche). google them and get them at any graphics supply place. not over-priced and are designed for the job.
marc
marc
10-11-2007, 07:36 PM
#21
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2006
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3M adhesive remover worked for me - and a LOT of 'strong pulling'. The 3M-A-R does evaporate VERY quickly and leaves no residue.
I then left the car outside in the driveway all day (in the warmth of the sun) so that the 'once covered' paint could 'breathe' and become one with the other, surrounding paint. After a while the 'lines' started to go away and by the end of day two they were gone. Later on in the evening I then swabbed both rear fender areas with copious amounts of car-shampoo/water etc. Then I went about fixing any stone-chips (using the Langka method). The next day I wax'd+polished until you could NOT discern where that plastic protector 'used' to be. Then I 'finished up' with several (took me a week) 'layers' of hard carnuba wax. My 'arches' look fine now and, no, I didn't bother putting another pair of clear-plastic-protectors back on. (That was 2+ years and approx. 6,000 miles ago -- and my arches are still fine.)
The 'interface/edges' of the plastic meeting the paintwork are absolute wax/polish magnets - which after a very short while look totally ugly, IMHO. I'd totally prefer to repair the odd stone-chip rather than have a whole curve of encrusted waxola (like filthy fingernails) staring me in the face. But hey, that's just me.
Gerry
I then left the car outside in the driveway all day (in the warmth of the sun) so that the 'once covered' paint could 'breathe' and become one with the other, surrounding paint. After a while the 'lines' started to go away and by the end of day two they were gone. Later on in the evening I then swabbed both rear fender areas with copious amounts of car-shampoo/water etc. Then I went about fixing any stone-chips (using the Langka method). The next day I wax'd+polished until you could NOT discern where that plastic protector 'used' to be. Then I 'finished up' with several (took me a week) 'layers' of hard carnuba wax. My 'arches' look fine now and, no, I didn't bother putting another pair of clear-plastic-protectors back on. (That was 2+ years and approx. 6,000 miles ago -- and my arches are still fine.)
The 'interface/edges' of the plastic meeting the paintwork are absolute wax/polish magnets - which after a very short while look totally ugly, IMHO. I'd totally prefer to repair the odd stone-chip rather than have a whole curve of encrusted waxola (like filthy fingernails) staring me in the face. But hey, that's just me.
Gerry
Pete
10-12-2007, 11:06 AM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok my old guards are off! The 2nd one was MUCH easier. I used a plastic putty knife (very very VERY carefully I might add) to get between the adhesive and the film since my guards were in such bad shape. That took off the film (girlfriend heated with hair dryer, I removed the film). This left me with quite a bit of adhesive still on the car. Sprayed (soaked) with Goo Gone and let sit for about 15 mins. Came back across it with a cotton towel and rubbed until the skin was gone from my fingers (literally!) but at least they are off. Today will be the day for application of the new ones.
Headed out now to find a tint squeegee!
Big thanks to everyone for all the help. I have no idea what I would do w/o this place!
I'll be sure to post pictures when done.
-Justin
Headed out now to find a tint squeegee!
Big thanks to everyone for all the help. I have no idea what I would do w/o this place!
I'll be sure to post pictures when done.
-Justin
10-12-2007, 02:18 PM
#23
+1 for 3M adhesive remover. I got the spray can at the local Walmart.
I did this replacement 1 year ago and it really improves the look of the car after replacing the 10 yr old polar-silver painted guards with clear OEM guards. I like like the look of the clear guards much better.
The install was surprisingly easy if you follow the guidance provided in this thread.
Good Luck
Erik
I did this replacement 1 year ago and it really improves the look of the car after replacing the 10 yr old polar-silver painted guards with clear OEM guards. I like like the look of the clear guards much better.
The install was surprisingly easy if you follow the guidance provided in this thread.
Good Luck
Erik
10-13-2007, 10:50 AM
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
Got the new ones on. Only one slight problem with the drivers side. Its backing had shifted I guess and now part of the rear edge has dirt/lint stuck to it and made a very defined outline around the rear of the guard. Its the only thing I can think happened. Sunset gave me another at cost though so it should be here monday. Very easy to install though and looks 100 times better
10-13-2007, 07:46 PM
#25
Addict
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
I used just a couple of drops of baby shampoo in water to apply the new pieces.
If you use the alcohol solution, it will adhere RIGHT NOW with no more slip, so save it for a stubborn piece or to anchor a spot so you can pull on the material to stretch it into the proper place.
If you use the alcohol solution, it will adhere RIGHT NOW with no more slip, so save it for a stubborn piece or to anchor a spot so you can pull on the material to stretch it into the proper place.
