Stone Guard adhesive removal
 

I ordered a new set of stone guards for the rear fenders and had a HELL of a time getting the film itself off. I have a lot of the adhesive still left on the paint and was wondering the best chemical to remove it that will still be safe for the paint.

I read all the posts about how hard it was to remove these things. Why I didn't believe them is beyond me! :banghead:

...careful!
 

I would recommend gentle heat with heat gun or hair dryer and keep rubbing it with 'bug & tar' remover and an old t-shirt. If you are tempted to use anything else stronger, don't, because you will 'rub' marks into the paint. You will need to use gentle heat to apply the new ones as well since the LAST thing you want is air bubbles that you cannot get out.

I did mine a while back black and i used that goo gone stuff then just scraped it off with my fingernails after it set for a minute or so. Took awhile but not bad, i wouldnt leave that stuff on too long but i dont think it would do any damage if you did.

JERRY

Oh yea as Marlon said use some heat as well i used a hairdrier also.

JERRY

Was thinking of the Goo Gone too. I had heard about some 3M Adhesive Remover but I'm afraid of putting it on the paint.

Any other success stories out there?

Believe it or not.

Peanut Butter.

The oils in the peanut butter will remove the left over adhesive.

I tried everything (except peanut butter). Heat (I used a blow dryer) and adhesive remover worked best for me also.

Adhesive remover is acetone based and will not damage paint typically. Just be sure to sue a none scratch towel to work it in

Goo Gone and a heat gun (very cautiously) took mine off easy. A blow dryer works fine from what I have read. I kept a buck of soap water and was rinsing a few times during the process.

Good info! Thanks everyone. I'll pick up some goo gone tomorrow.

Heat it, get a corner started, shoot Goo Gone it. Let the Goo Gone set for awhile. Then use heat again. Once the clear is off just use Goo Gone, heat and a little patience.

any tips for application of the new ones? I've read and heard of baby shampoo and alcohol but heard alcohol will make it haze.

I F$%^D up the 1st one replacing it and havent bothered ordering another one. Eventually I will but realized that 2 hands would be better than one installing it.

I think they make black stone guards??? I may go that route.

I looked and looked and looked and never found any black ones. I called everyone I could think of, looked all over the web, etc. I was told only the 2 colors of silver and white were all that were made for the 993, everything else was clear. I could have sworn mine were black until I started peeling them off.

They were actually brown they were so nasty :icon501:

3M adhesive remover worked for me - and a LOT of 'strong pulling'. The 3M-A-R does evaporate VERY quickly and leaves no residue.
I then left the car outside in the driveway all day (in the warmth of the sun) so that the 'once covered' paint could 'breathe' and become one with the other, surrounding paint. After a while the 'lines' started to go away and by the end of day two they were gone. Later on in the evening I then swabbed both rear fender areas with copious amounts of car-shampoo/water etc. Then I went about fixing any stone-chips (using the Langka method). The next day I wax'd+polished until you could NOT discern where that plastic protector 'used' to be. Then I 'finished up' with several (took me a week) 'layers' of hard carnuba wax. My 'arches' look fine now and, no, I didn't bother putting another pair of clear-plastic-protectors back on. (That was 2+ years and approx. 6,000 miles ago -- and my arches are still fine.)
The 'interface/edges' of the plastic meeting the paintwork are absolute wax/polish magnets - which after a very short while look totally ugly, IMHO. I'd totally prefer to repair the odd stone-chip rather than have a whole curve of encrusted waxola (like filthy fingernails) staring me in the face. But hey, that's just me.

Gerry