Toddimus

Hi,

So I've searched and read, and searched and read some more... I'm at my friggin' wit's end. I have a new remote and I can't get the car to go into -- push the remote button(s) to program -- mode.

I can get easily to the first blinking clock light --ready to enter code -- mode, and (successfully?) enter the code numbers with the light coming on after each digit entry. The problem lies in that the light doesn't ever blink after I've put in the code. Yes, I've tried to wait at least 15 seconds just for the heck of it.

I got the code from the dealer (for free at Carlsen I might add), and it has four codes on it:

ignition lock / alarm system code XXXX
Anlerncode / Learning Code YYYY
immobiliser code YYYY
radio code ZZZZ

I'm assuming I should use the immobiliser code (which is the same as the Anlerncode / Learning Code YYYY). I've also tried the ignition lock / alarm system code to no avail.

Anybody seen all these codes for their car? And if so, which one is used to program the remote?

Ok, so here's my method...

I use exactly the method posed by hoggel except that instead of waiting 3 minutes after unlocking the car, I wait 90 seconds after removing the key from the ignition (after just having turned the ignition off).

I get to the point of the clock remote light blinking, signaling that it's ready to enter the code. I think, and maybe I'm wrong, that as long as I get to the blinking light, it's prepared to hear the code.

The obligatory pre-conditions for successful programming that I have assured:

• Doors, hood, rear deck, and glove box are closed
  
• Alarm system always makes it to the single, ~.5Hz blink when armed, after the 10 second fast blinking right after pushing the remote button.
  
• Factory stereo head, green wire DISCONNECTED (and covered) because alarm self tests won't pass with it connected. I have an aftermarket amplifier installed, with the factory amp disconnected. Maybe the green wire needs ground through the factory amp?? Anyways, the alarm gives me the "healthy" blinking when the wire is disconnected.
  

After all of this I can't get the clock light to blink the second time. I've tried different methods of key turning - all the way off then back on, - just to the first click then back on, and - two little clicks then back on.

Is it possible that the immobiliser was replaced by a previous owner, so the code is actually different than the one the dealer gave me?

Is the first blinking light making me think I'm good, but really I'm screwed? Is the single alarm blink when I lock the car giving me the false impression that the alarm passes all of its self tests?

What am I doing wrong?

Guy

I think you should be using the alarm code.......

The only thing that would cause the behavior you mentioned is the wrong code.

Also, when replacing the immobilizer the dealer SHOULD place a little decal with the new code inside the maintenance book and indicate the date of replacement.

Pull the seat all the way forward and remove the immobilizer box, see if it is a replacement or if someone labeled it with the code

Toddimus

Guy,

Thanks for the reply. I tried again this evening and still no love. I then looked under the seat to see if the immobilizer unit had been replaced. Well, there's no real evidence other than I can see the paper label on top of it is a bit scraped. There are shear bolts in place holding down the cover so I can't see in there yet. Either somebody's been in there and replaced the shear bolts, or nobody's been in there. I'm guessing it's the former.

My next step is to ask the previous owner AGAIN if he has the code or if it's been replaced. I'll then drill out the shear bolts and check out the immobilizer unit. Maybe somebody was nice enough to write the number on the box??

Then, if all else fails, I'll try contacting PCNA with the serial number of the unit that is installed in the car. I did a bit of a search to see what a new unit costs... $1200+ !!!! You've got to be f'ing kidding me!!! I know I can probably get one used for much, much less.

Does anybody know if the code could be read by the hammer or PIWIS? That would save me some serious grief!!

TRINITONY

I don't believe the code can be read by the hammer. Try swapping with a known working immobilizer. If that works your immobilizer is not working or you have the wrong code or it was previously swapped. There's someone on here with an immobilizer for sale..can't rem who right now..........

fullbooker

Send me your fax # and I will fax you the programming directions that I purchased on Ebay. Worked fine for me! Only issue was that any zero in code was considered ten by system.

Guy

You mentioned shear bolts....not sure what you are referring to. The immobilzer is a small black plastic box that is held in with a single 10mm nut. Once the nut is removed it lifts up and out, then can be unplugged.

If you know where it was serviced, call that dealer and see if they show the immobilizer replaced. My car went thru 6 of them total.

Toddimus

I appreciate the offer, but I don't have regular access to a fax. Is it any different than the ones posted here on RL? Something special?

I think I've got a code problem rather than a method problem. I could be wrong, but that's my working theory.

6 of them? I feel for you man! What was causing them to fail? No way it could have been that many faulty units. You better be playing the lottery if you're that lucky!

I bet your cover is not in place like mine still is. I bet after the third replacement, your shop decided to leave the cover off!

I see the little 10mm nut you're talking about, but even if I could eventually get the nut off, I couldn't get the immobilizer out from under the main cover (with shear bolts). The shear bolts look like big round head screws without the slot. You can see where part of the head sheared off when they were installed. I'll just drill out or grind a slot into them and get that cover off.

To compound problems, last night when I looked under there to check things out, my electric seat slide seems to be getting stuck on the way back. It will go forward, but it only goes back barely far enough for me to comfortably drive.

I keep forgetting to give the PO a call, so it's my own damn fault. If I find the shop, I bet they'll be able to help me. If not, then...

Thanks again for the help folks! You've gotta love Rennlist.

James K

After a week of frustration trying to program a new remote it finally worked! Previously, I was able to get the car to the point of entering the code, but the code never took. The reason it never took? It was the wrong code. I just happened to take a peak at my service book in all of the manual stuff and on the first page there was another sticker that looked exactly like the sticker on my key card, but with a different code. (Note: There is also a VIN sticker on the back of my key card that matches my car's VIN) Sure enough, I had both remotes programmed on the first try.

The car's records are not complete but from what I do have, I don't see anything about a new immobilizer. Any thoughts as to why I may have two code stickers? I wonder which code is registered with the dealers for my VIN. Perhaps at birth, this car got someone else's sticker as well, or maybe there was a mix up at the initial dealership (Houston, TX)? Either way if someone has a code that doesn't work, or doesn't have a code at all, you could try 5399, because it isn't mine.

Toddimus

James,

I think mine was replaced, but the guy who did it wasn't kind enough to put that sticker in my service book or manual. I spoke with the previous owner and he's going to take another look around for any other paperwork, but he doesn't know if/when the immobilizer was replaced. Jury's still out on how I'll get out of this, but I'm sure glad my single remote is still good.

My seat is still stuck too! DAMN!

Oh well, it's almost Friday. I have the whole weekend to get my hands on that immobilizer box.

Toddimus

So I couldn't wait for the weekend to see that little immobilizer box. I finally got the offending nickel out of the seat track, which allowed me to get at the front seat mounting bolts. Took the driver's seat out and after some Dremel and drill handiwork on the shear bolts, I got the theft resistant cover off of the boxes.




For the record, I didn't put those scratches on the plastic and paper sticker. Those are what make me think that it has been replaced, with a used one maybe??

Does anybody know what the numbers on the sticker mean? I was hoping that I'd find an obvious code written on the box somewhere. There is a four digit number, on the right side about half way down. SW ####

I tried that number and no such luck.

Which is the serial number? Or the number that is the encoded code number that Bosch or Porsche would use to look up the correct code for me?

Does anybody know? The more I know, the easier it will be for me to get my remote programmed without having to get another immobilizer box that HAS a code card.

I'm also thinking about getting into the working remote and doing one or more of the following...

• Cloning the remote with some other sort of transmitter
  
• Somehow figuring out how the memory chip is programmed, and replacing the chip on my new remote with a chip that has a copy of the working remote's memory chip image. If I figure this out, I'll still be screwed if my remotes die because I won't be able to start the car using the emergency code entry to disable the immobilizer. It's worth a try though. I know it's geeky, but it will be fun.

All input on this is welcome. Criticism, encouragement, and general information.

Cheers

TRINITONY

Can you post a photo of all that's under your seat?

Tks!

Toddimus

Another stupid question for the gurus out there...
Does the remote programming code actually reside inside the immobilizer box (I assume this is the case), or is it coded into the Motronic box? Also out of curiosity, where is the antenna for the remote? Inside or outside the box?

I'm taking Friday off from work to go out of town, so I'll stop by the dealer and ask them about getting me a proper code. I hope this will get resolved one of these days soon.

I didn't take a wide angle shot of the whole under the seat area, but here are two that show most of the area. If I go back in, I'll be sure to take a better photo of the area.

The Motronic shot is oriented such that the top of the photo is towards the front of the car. The big copper wire on the left goes to my rear footwell speaker box.

The immobilizer shot is actually with the box removed from its mounting and leaned up against the central tunnel of the car.

TRINITONY

Thank you very much!

These photos are sufficient.

Toddimus

Ok, still not solved. I need some input with folks who have access to the manual and are very familiar with codes. Loren, JasonAndreas, SteveWeiner, Bill V... any one of the gurus here on the list??

Here's where I stand...

A friend of a friend, now a friend of mine, works at a dealership. He and another tech hooked up my car to the PIWIS tester. Good news is that I don't have any DME faults. Bad news is that they couldn't program the remote either.

Here's what we found after I had bought them lunch...

• The vehicle identification and programming of the alarm information screens on the PIWiS seemed consistent with an immobilizer module that had been installed at the factory. Also, since my shear bolts were still intact, they also thought that it was still "factory sealed". So, in this case, my code number is correct. He pulled the number from PCNA and it matched the one I already got from another dealer.
  
• Their tried and true method of programming the remote didn't work either. They said I'm doing it right.
  
• Bunch of faults (~5) in the HVAC system. Cleared them and they didn't come back.
  
• A whole bunch of faults (10+) in the alarm system! We cleared them and only one of them came back. Code 14. "Implausible position for drive links" or something like that.
  
• They noticed something during the programming procedure, after cycling the key the first time, when the light first goes out. Upon turning the key back to the on position, the light in the clock (between 3 and 4 o'clock) turns on immediately. After 15 seconds it does begin to blink, but they found this immediate turn on behavior strange. They remembered that usually it takes a second or two to come on. Any thoughts here?
  
• They also suggested that I might try swapping clocks with a known good car. One time, replacing a faulty clock had fixed the problem for them. Unfortunately, they didn't have one around to swap. Still need to figure how I can try one. I do have a neighbor with a C4S that I haven't met yet!!
  

For alarm code 14, their troubleshooting table said to check the drive links in the connectors in the doors. I think it was X11 and X12, but there were specific tests called out that I don't remember. Can anybody give me some guidance? Are these the door locking solenoids or motors? I should have asked for a copy of those pages, but I didn't want to push it or get them in trouble for helping me out, gratis.

As I understand it, there are other drive links (solenoids and motors) scattered around the car. During the programming process, does your "gong-dinger" go off during each cycle of the key? Keep your mind out of the gutters!! Also, the rear fan, and some other solenoid in the engine bay sound like they're cycling. Is this good... bad?

I'll get to the bottom of this if it the last thing I do! You gotta love problem solving.

Again, I'd appreciate any input from you folks out there.

Thanks

Kevin R.

Hey Toddimus, those points posted by hoggel are a wee bit off right at the get go.

If I wait for 3 minutes and the immobilizer self-activates, when the ignition is switched "on", then the warning light will stay on until the cows come home (or the battery dies, which ever comes first) unless I disable it with the remote.

Mine will not even go into step one and two from the manual. The owner's manual states the door is to be "opened" before switching the ignition on.

Any other suggestions to get it initiated to allow programming to commence would be appreciated by those who've had similar troubles?

Thanks.