Toddimus

Kevin,

Hoggel's directions are right on. I think the 3 minutes wait time is the time to wait after unlocking with the remote. You'll have to open the door to prevent it from re-locking itself automatically.

In the owner's manual, when they talk about opening the door, they're either talking about opening it to prevent it from locking, or it's part of the emergency disable procedure when you use the key in the door lock.

If your light never goes out after 15 seconds, you might have some other fault. Do you get the "double blink" heartbeat of the LEDs in the doors after you lock it? If that's the case, you'll need to rectify any problems with the alarm system first, before trying to program remotes. The likely culprit is the stereo antitheft green wire that's shorted to ground. Pull your stereo out and see if there's a single green wire plugged into the cage that's mounted in the dash. It's supposed to be an open circuit when the stereo is installed, but for some reason it can get grounded and cause an alarm fault.

From my experience, the method of choice is to get into the car...

• Lock/unlock with the remote and turn the key on (without starting). No hurry here, but less than 1 min.
• Still sitting in the driver's seat, pull the key out of the ignition to "un-trigger" the buzzer (gong) contact.
• Wait 90+ seconds for the immobilizer to arm.
• Turn the key on (just before the starter position) and wait 15 seconds for the light in the clock to go out.
• Turn the key off and back on again within 5 seconds and wait for the light in the clock to start blinking (after about 15 more seconds).
• Then enter the code, waiting for the light to come on after each sequence for a digit of the code is entered.
• Finally, once the code is entered the light should start blinking.

This is where I'm screwed. The light never starts blinking after the code is entered. I think it's one of three things...

1. My code is wrong (the immobilizer was replaced by the PO without posting the code anywhere)
2. My ignition switch or buzzer contact is faulty
3. My immobilizer ist kaput.

I hope it works out for you. I'm still frustrated with it.

Guy

Not to beat a dead horse but be sure that you are only turning the key back just a hair or so, barely enough to lose the lights. Three shops told me I needed a new immobilizer. After months of messing with it, I finally got it. Its all in the touch

TRINITONY

ah..u planning of visiting DC/MD/VA/ anytime soon?

Kevin R.

Toddimus,

You mention a couple of interesting points.

1. At point four where you say turn the key on, well, the warning light never comes on at least not with the fan belt and battery warning lights (which is what I am understanding here). If I could at least get the warning light to come on and go off, I'd be laughing.

2. You mention the devious green wire. Yes, it's there but the warning light does the same thing, as in nothing, whether it is plugged in to the case or just left hanging to fend for itself. Thanks for the tip there though.

3. One more... yes I have the "double blink" LEDs in the doors when initiating the immobilizer but it still works as in the alarm will go off and the car will not start until I "unlock" using the remote.

What part number is the immobilizer? Is it what they call Control Unit Alarm System Central Locking System on the PET? Part #: 928 618 260 03

Now what??? According to you, if I have the double blink, I'm screwed, period.

Kevin.

hoggel

If you have the double blink you should be able to find the problem. Have you seen this thread?
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/370235-need-help-programming-remote-with-short-method.html

Kevin R.

Yes, I've read those instructions and attempted them after the instructions in my owners manual produced nothing. I have the double blink and see nothing there to remedy that unless I missed it completely. In fact, I have no real idea what having the double blink even means. Is it a guaranteed indication of some kind? As said, the warning light will not even come on to begin with so I am stuck at ground zero.

Toddimus

I've tried that, but still no love. I'll keep trying though.

The immobilizer part number is 993.618.159.02 and it lives under the driver's seat.

Check out the link hoggel posted and get rid of that double blink.

Kevin R.

Okay guys, the double blink has been remedied so I can now continue with this thread.

Here is the challenge I have next which I cannot find any post on. Once the alarm has been "primed" as noted in a prior post I turn the key and see the alarm icon light up. I wait for it to go out but it never does. It just stays lit until I finally choose to push the remote button to get it to go off.

Obviously if I cannot get it to flash then I am unable to begin entering the code sequence.

Here is an interesting side note... I have the rear seat delete with those two doors that share an electric motor that locks and unlocks them. Has anyone with this option ever had trouble programming their remote???

Any suggestions will do....??? Thanks in advance.

jaybratt

I Just joined you club, my fob got crushed and i cant get passed step one. My alarm seams to be in the way. The guy at the shop is just doing about the same thing. any luck on yours

Kevin R.

What chapter or region did you join?

Bushbaby

Looking at the above I'm glad the 95 just has a key....

HalfGerman

If only there was a way to Google Sony RM-V401 manual or codes. Hmmmmm