Timing cover torque
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Timing cover torque
Ive been searching for 45 minutes, some great information but I haven't found the torque specs for the timing cover bolts. I want to try replacing the little soft washers to see if that will clean up my leaks in the area before I go any further. Anybody have these handy?
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From: Somewhere....
Hi Andrew,
You mean the "valve covers"? If so.....
I torque them to 3 foot pounds - then go back re-torque to 6 foot pounds. Why 6 foot pounds? Using the method described on Robin's EXCELLENT site (http://p-car.com/) - 6 foot pounds is just about what I get. I use the torque wrench to try to get them all the same. However - I don't think it's critical to use a torque wrench for them - I'm just "that way"..
If you mean the timing chain covers - I have that somewhere, but they should only be about 6 foot pounds, as I recall?? I'll try to find the exact specs for them....
Hope this helps!
John
You mean the "valve covers"? If so.....
I torque them to 3 foot pounds - then go back re-torque to 6 foot pounds. Why 6 foot pounds? Using the method described on Robin's EXCELLENT site (http://p-car.com/) - 6 foot pounds is just about what I get. I use the torque wrench to try to get them all the same. However - I don't think it's critical to use a torque wrench for them - I'm just "that way"..
If you mean the timing chain covers - I have that somewhere, but they should only be about 6 foot pounds, as I recall?? I'll try to find the exact specs for them....
Hope this helps!
John
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I replaced the two lowest cup washers in the LR timing chain cover - which nicely stopped the slight oil leak: I just tightened them until the steel insert ( around the stud) made firm contact on both ends.
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From: Somewhere....
Originally Posted by Garth S
.... I just tightened them until the steel insert ( around the stud) made firm contact on both ends.
)..HTH!
JD
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Hmmm, I thought it was 7 (as tought by Gerry Woods). One foot pound is nothing anyways!
The problem with these low torques is that you have to have a very good low torque wrench (I have one for 1-35 and another from 20-200, both calibrated often). You should also excercise the wrench first (i.e. use it on a nut that is tighter so the wrench detects the torque a few times).
When I took Gerry Wood's engine rebuilding class (excellent by the way!) the told us, that in the case where you can't get a torque wrench in, use your pinky to hold the wrench. He figures your pinky is more sensitive and able to judge the tightness.
I often just go by feel, I have done enough of them and some using the torque wrench so my "torqu-o-meter" in my arm seems to work pretty good. No leaks yet on all the cars that I have done (knock on wood).
Cheers,
Mike
The problem with these low torques is that you have to have a very good low torque wrench (I have one for 1-35 and another from 20-200, both calibrated often). You should also excercise the wrench first (i.e. use it on a nut that is tighter so the wrench detects the torque a few times).
When I took Gerry Wood's engine rebuilding class (excellent by the way!) the told us, that in the case where you can't get a torque wrench in, use your pinky to hold the wrench. He figures your pinky is more sensitive and able to judge the tightness.
I often just go by feel, I have done enough of them and some using the torque wrench so my "torqu-o-meter" in my arm seems to work pretty good. No leaks yet on all the cars that I have done (knock on wood).
Cheers,
Mike
