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Front suspension wear items.

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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Default Front suspension wear items.

I'd be grateful if someone could provide a list of all parts that wear in the front suspension/steering of a 993. Also, for each item, how do you establish that they are worn.

Many thanks.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:22 AM
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Lower control arm - use a prise bar and push the arm to see how much it deflects, also by visual inspection for rubber cracking
Lower ball joint - visual inspection for cracked boot and by pushing on the wheel and looking for movement
Damper - look for leaking, irregular tire wear, etc.
Sway bar bushings - look for deformed rubber and cracking
Sway bar end links - look for cracked boot and loose or sticking joint
Steering rack - look for leaking, movement in the rack mechanism from worn bushings
Steering rack mounting - look for worn or cracked rubber
Inner tie rod - look for worn ball joint and play
Outer tie rod - look for cracked boot and loose joint when pressure is put on the tire to rotate it.
Wheel bearing - grinding noise when rotating the wheel. Loose wheel movement.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:33 AM
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Thanks Geoffrey.

That's quite a list!

The only things I can definitely discount are the shocks because I've just had new Bilstein HDs fitted. Front end feels "light" at speed, and was led to believe that this was most probably the shocks. I'm now looking for other possible causes.

Thanks again.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:37 AM
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The alignment, including appropriate rake has quite an effect on how the car feels at speed.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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Yes.

I had the alignment done after the shocks were fitted. I know there is one issue - the OPC that did the alignment reported that one of the lower ball joints is seized, and therefore they could not adjust the castor angle.

I plan to get both ball joints replaced, but because that'll mean a further alignment, I wanted the list so that I can get everything that's related checked whilst they're doing the ball joints (the work will be done by an independent that I use - he doesn't have the alignment gear, hence the reason I had to use an OPC). As I'm sure you know, alignments ain't cheap and so it could quickly become expensive if I fix one thing and have an alignment done, only to find it's something else that's causing the problem.

Thanks again.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SJB993
Yes.

I had the alignment done after the shocks were fitted. I know there is one issue - the OPC that did the alignment reported that one of the lower ball joints is seized, and therefore they could not adjust the castor angle.

I plan to get both ball joints replaced, but because that'll mean a further alignment, I wanted the list so that I can get everything that's related checked whilst they're doing the ball joints (the work will be done by an independent that I use - he doesn't have the alignment gear, hence the reason I had to use an OPC). As I'm sure you know, alignments ain't cheap and so it could quickly become expensive if I fix one thing and have an alignment done, only to find it's something else that's causing the problem.

Thanks again.
There are two nuts that secure the front ball joint to the lower control arm, one of which is an eccentric for adjusting caster. I am surprised the shop couldnt work it loose??

I feel its a good idea to replace ball joints at the 100K (mile mark.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 11:31 AM
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Hi Chris,

The shop (OPC) told me they had "broken two tools" trying to undo it. I'm hoping that the independent guy I use will have more luck when he comes to replace them.

Following on from what Geoffrey said, will it be very apparent to my mechanic if any of the things in Geoffrey's list are worn. What I want to avoid is a cycle of fix something, have the alignment done, find it's something else, have that done, have another alignment, etc. etc. I'd rather take the financial pain in one go if I can.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 10:06 PM
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My shops said they could not loosen the eccentric nut that conbtrols the left front CAMBER! What is it with these guys? I am trying another shop soon to check it out.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by henkinc
My shops said they could not loosen the eccentric nut that conbtrols the left front CAMBER! What is it with these guys? I am trying another shop soon to check it out.
I would find another shop -- camber adjustment at the front doesnt use an eccentric.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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henkinc

I think the eccentric nut adjusts the caster angle (not the camber). Sounds like the same problem I've got.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Geoffrey
Lower control arm - use a prise bar and push the arm to see how much it deflects, also by visual inspection for rubber cracking
Lower ball joint - visual inspection for cracked boot and by pushing on the wheel and looking for movement
Damper - look for leaking, irregular tire wear, etc.
Sway bar bushings - look for deformed rubber and cracking
Sway bar end links - look for cracked boot and loose or sticking joint
Steering rack - look for leaking, movement in the rack mechanism from worn bushings
Steering rack mounting - look for worn or cracked rubber
Inner tie rod - look for worn ball joint and play
Outer tie rod - look for cracked boot and loose joint when pressure is put on the tire to rotate it.
Wheel bearing - grinding noise when rotating the wheel. Loose wheel movement.
Great info, this place is great By the way, if the tie rod starts going bad, will its rate of destruction keep increasing even when the car is parked? haha jk man
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