dry start conundrum
#1
dry start conundrum
The current Road and Track (July 2007, ppg 168) contains a letter from a vette owner re dry starts following two weeks of sitting. The editors opined that near continuous use is ideal while use every two days is practical. The use of Lucas oil additives (with a promise of no dry starts) and the installation of an oil accumulator were discussed.
What about us. It seems the Rennlist gospel is that we should avoid short drives and try to drive long enough to get the oil up to proper temperature and to then ahem exercize the car. This seems reasonable and I try to adhere to this gospel. Practically, this results in fewer drives albeit longer drives. Should adherents of the fewer starts and avoidance of short milk runs school of thought be concerned with the dreaded "dry start conundrum"??
As always, thanks in advance and yes I did a search (several) and I also was reluctant to ask an oil related question!!
Jack
What about us. It seems the Rennlist gospel is that we should avoid short drives and try to drive long enough to get the oil up to proper temperature and to then ahem exercize the car. This seems reasonable and I try to adhere to this gospel. Practically, this results in fewer drives albeit longer drives. Should adherents of the fewer starts and avoidance of short milk runs school of thought be concerned with the dreaded "dry start conundrum"??
As always, thanks in advance and yes I did a search (several) and I also was reluctant to ask an oil related question!!
Jack
#3
I think the beauty of our cars is that they are dry sump systems, almost instant oil on start up. And that a motor in good shape will keep the lifters pumped up under pressure and ready for service instantly. I don't use anything other than 15W50 M-1
#4
IMO dry or wet sumps do not make a difference when running dry bearings is concerned. The good news is that our boxer engines usually have to spin around a few times before they catch. This MAY give the oil pump enough time to prime.
After several weeks/months of no activity, for example when laid up over winter periods, it is recommended to pull the coil wires and 'dry starting' the car a few times to make sure the oil gets everywhere.
Where running short distances and insuffeciently heated oils are concerned, however, especially after long periods of inactivity , the formation of acidic components in the oil and exhaust systems due to accumulation of condensates and oil vapours become an issue. These have a seriously detrimental effect on the alloys used in and around your engine.
Peter R.
After several weeks/months of no activity, for example when laid up over winter periods, it is recommended to pull the coil wires and 'dry starting' the car a few times to make sure the oil gets everywhere.
Where running short distances and insuffeciently heated oils are concerned, however, especially after long periods of inactivity , the formation of acidic components in the oil and exhaust systems due to accumulation of condensates and oil vapours become an issue. These have a seriously detrimental effect on the alloys used in and around your engine.
Peter R.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 5
From: Seattle xburb - I can't see the Emerald City, but I know it's out there somewhere
I use Uplon upper-cylinder lube from Klotz, at 1/2 oz. per gallon mix, because my car is a garage queen and I'm never sure when the next time is that it's going to be used. As far as yanking the spark, I used to do that on other cars that were inactive for a while, but you're still loading a fuel charge in the cylinder, which can cause its own problems when spark is applied again. I would save that for situations where the car hasn't been used for a couple months or more.
#7
If it were me, I would drive it as much as you can. If you live in Florida, as do I, I'd drive it rain and shine and change the oil on a regular basis.
You have more to worry about with the top end valve guides and clogged emission ports than you do bearing failure. The 993 engine is a pretty stout beast, at least in the lower end. So, drive it.
I used to be one of those guys that would enshrine my cars and only drive it when the temperature and humidity were guaranteed to be ideal, garaged and covered it whenever possible. Then 5 or so years later I would sell it for a nicer car.
The problem with that is I was hardly using the car and paying a lot of money in depreciation just so I could preserve a nice car for the next owner. The cost per mile was very high and the enjoyment factor was too sparse.
Now I just drive my car everywhere in rain and shine. I take very good care of my car, but I don't bite my nails about road and weather conditions and the 10% low miles premium I used to get selling my cars has been cashed in for daily fun and it's worth every penny.
With ordinary care your engine's bearings should last 100's of thousands of miles. So I would not let that rob you of your driving pleasure.
You have more to worry about with the top end valve guides and clogged emission ports than you do bearing failure. The 993 engine is a pretty stout beast, at least in the lower end. So, drive it.
I used to be one of those guys that would enshrine my cars and only drive it when the temperature and humidity were guaranteed to be ideal, garaged and covered it whenever possible. Then 5 or so years later I would sell it for a nicer car.
The problem with that is I was hardly using the car and paying a lot of money in depreciation just so I could preserve a nice car for the next owner. The cost per mile was very high and the enjoyment factor was too sparse.
Now I just drive my car everywhere in rain and shine. I take very good care of my car, but I don't bite my nails about road and weather conditions and the 10% low miles premium I used to get selling my cars has been cashed in for daily fun and it's worth every penny.
With ordinary care your engine's bearings should last 100's of thousands of miles. So I would not let that rob you of your driving pleasure.
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#9
If my car sits for two weeks or more I pop out the DME, crank until oil pressure, and then put it back in and start the car. That way I know the oil is "around". Taking out the DME is good sense since it also shuts off the fuel pump so you are not squirting fuel into the cylinders.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
#10
Originally Posted by pedsurg
Marv: ...Now what this I hear about forgetting a certain 96 Arena Red 993??
Jack
Jack
If you really want an answer to that question, get a GT3 on loan for a day or two and the answer becomes obvious.
However, I do miss the gang here!
#13
Originally Posted by pedsurg
Mike: Is there any downside to cranking without the DME??
Jack
Jack
Cheers,
Mike
#15
Originally Posted by pedsurg
Thanks Mike. Is "for a while 2, 3, or 3 weeks.
What about everyone else. Is this the our best option for dealing with "dry starts"
Jack
What about everyone else. Is this the our best option for dealing with "dry starts"
Jack
Cheers,
Mike