HELP - PSS9 Allen Key hole stripped!
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From: Seattle, WA
HELP - PSS9 Allen Key hole stripped!
Hey Guys,
This morning MikeJ and I went to take off my drivers side front shock to replace the shock mount flange bushing as it's original and seems to be worn causing a thunking noise when under load..
Anyways the readers digest version is the allen key hole thats used to keep the strut from spinning while loosening the nut on the top of the shock is stripped.. so i cant loosen the nut.
Any one have any ideas on how to get around this? is there another spot we can hang onto to prevent the strut from spinning while we loosen / tighten the nut without damaging the shock?
worse case is cut the nut to get the shock out and either
1) Send to bilstein for repair
2) Buy a new set of PSS9's as it seems you cannot get just a set of front struts
3) Somehow get a machinist to re-key the top of the shock to a larger key (8mm)
Any help would be much appreciated..
Thanks!
Rob.
This morning MikeJ and I went to take off my drivers side front shock to replace the shock mount flange bushing as it's original and seems to be worn causing a thunking noise when under load..
Anyways the readers digest version is the allen key hole thats used to keep the strut from spinning while loosening the nut on the top of the shock is stripped.. so i cant loosen the nut.
Any one have any ideas on how to get around this? is there another spot we can hang onto to prevent the strut from spinning while we loosen / tighten the nut without damaging the shock?
worse case is cut the nut to get the shock out and either
1) Send to bilstein for repair
2) Buy a new set of PSS9's as it seems you cannot get just a set of front struts
3) Somehow get a machinist to re-key the top of the shock to a larger key (8mm)
Any help would be much appreciated..
Thanks!
Rob.
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From: Nova Scotia
If there is some semblance of the hex left, one of either a Torx/triple square (12 point)/SAE Allan will be slightly oversized just enough to gently hammer into the crater you are looking at .... adequate to counter hold the shaft to loosen the nut.
Maybe not pretty .... but it works.
Now, since you are about to toss those old PSS9's, my address is ....
Maybe not pretty .... but it works.
Now, since you are about to toss those old PSS9's, my address is ....
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Thanks Garth!
We tried different keys (the hole is almost round), triple hex, 7mm hex (the correct size), 8mm hex (next size up), Torx. etc. The problem is the nut on top is really really tight...way more than spec and the hole is stripped out. This combined with having a nyloc nut makes it very hard to remove.
I even tried an sharp easy-out bit that bit pretty well into the hole and gave us a solid purchase. I had to weld a grip on a 21mm socket and rob tried to hold onto a socket while I held the easy-out through the hole in the socket...still no budging and we were using lots of pressure. The nut is way too tight...likely someone used an impact gun. I also tried that to get it off..but I did not want to risk spinning the shaft too much. I am temped to take a dremel tool and grind thought the $#)($* nut...but I risk scoring the threads and it does not solve the problem with getting the correct torque when putting it back on.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Cheers,
Mike
We tried different keys (the hole is almost round), triple hex, 7mm hex (the correct size), 8mm hex (next size up), Torx. etc. The problem is the nut on top is really really tight...way more than spec and the hole is stripped out. This combined with having a nyloc nut makes it very hard to remove.
I even tried an sharp easy-out bit that bit pretty well into the hole and gave us a solid purchase. I had to weld a grip on a 21mm socket and rob tried to hold onto a socket while I held the easy-out through the hole in the socket...still no budging and we were using lots of pressure. The nut is way too tight...likely someone used an impact gun. I also tried that to get it off..but I did not want to risk spinning the shaft too much. I am temped to take a dremel tool and grind thought the $#)($* nut...but I risk scoring the threads and it does not solve the problem with getting the correct torque when putting it back on.
Any suggestions are welcome!
Cheers,
Mike
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From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by ppressle
Gentle use of an impact wrench?
We could always cut the bolt off but i'm looking for a way around having the suspension out and shipped for repair.. if thats the only way i guess it will have to wait till winter when i can part with the car sitting in pieces.
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From: Corona, CA
Obviously you do not want a "hard tool" contacting the shock shaft below the nut, but how about one of the nylon oil filter strap things carefully wrapped around the shaft below, along with gentle use of the impact gun from above?
That, or just a few turns of nylon webbing around the strut and vice grips holding on to the webbing around the shaft - action as a cushion and the webbing should grip tighter the more it turns....???
Should work both ways to loosen and tighten depending on how you wrap the webbing...
That, or just a few turns of nylon webbing around the strut and vice grips holding on to the webbing around the shaft - action as a cushion and the webbing should grip tighter the more it turns....???
Should work both ways to loosen and tighten depending on how you wrap the webbing...
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From: Los Altos, CA
Can you put a side load on the strut from underneath to get it to bind a bit and then use an impact wrench from the top?
I think you could also tighten it with the impact... calibrate it with lower air pressure and your torque wrench on a lug nut. Not perfect, but it will get you in the ballpark.
Sears has some hammer in easy-outs. Don't know if they will handle the 50-100 flt lbs you are going to need to get the nut off though. How about one of those nut splitters. Do they work when up against something? (caveat... I have never used one of those)
I think you could also tighten it with the impact... calibrate it with lower air pressure and your torque wrench on a lug nut. Not perfect, but it will get you in the ballpark.
Sears has some hammer in easy-outs. Don't know if they will handle the 50-100 flt lbs you are going to need to get the nut off though. How about one of those nut splitters. Do they work when up against something? (caveat... I have never used one of those)
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From: Nova Scotia
If the PSS9's are similar to the HD's on my buggey, there is ~3mm of thread proud of the locknut .... on a 14mm shaft: were I faced with the same desperation after the oversized driver failed, I would use a fine Dremel cut-off wheel to slot the shaft for a 14mm " screwdriver": the screwdriver would be a 'T' handle affair with a ~6mm long pilot pin to keep the blade centered in the buggered hole .... and the 'T' handles long enough to keep Mike from spinning Rob while manhandling the custom socket ...... 
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Great ideas everyone...this is what makes Rennlist great!
I would like to try to hold the shaft still with some sort of strapping and then use the impact gun. If that does not work then go for the slotting idea and the screwdriver or t-shaped handle. That would require fabricating a custom tool since we would still have to use a socket for the nut and somehow maintain the screwdriver in the slot. Midly heating the nut is a good idea too...I can't torch it since its a nyloc nut and the insert would just melt.
Cheers,
Mike
I would like to try to hold the shaft still with some sort of strapping and then use the impact gun. If that does not work then go for the slotting idea and the screwdriver or t-shaped handle. That would require fabricating a custom tool since we would still have to use a socket for the nut and somehow maintain the screwdriver in the slot. Midly heating the nut is a good idea too...I can't torch it since its a nyloc nut and the insert would just melt.
Cheers,
Mike
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Sanity Cruise, Ca
Originally Posted by Mike J
...I can't torch it since its a nyloc nut and the insert would just melt.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
I gained a new respect for heating stubborn nuts and studs recently. Worked like a charm on a rusted stud. I also pre-heated using my halogen lamp for a few hours.
Cheers
Race Car
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Wilmington NC
cooking the nylon off the nut would seem like the simplest thing. Could probably be done with a lighter as so not to heat the rest of the assembly to much. tack welding a bolt head on top is another great idea, as is notching the current head, although I don't think a screw drive would have enough holding power.
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From: Belgium
Originally Posted by Garth S
If there is some semblance of the hex left, one of either a Torx/triple square (12 point)/SAE Allan will be slightly oversized just enough to gently hammer into the crater you are looking at .... adequate to counter hold the shaft to loosen the nut.
Maybe not pretty .... but it works.
Now, since you are about to toss those old PSS9's, my address is ....
Maybe not pretty .... but it works.
Now, since you are about to toss those old PSS9's, my address is ....
Peter R.