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Anal perspective on 993 pricing

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Old 06-04-2007, 09:23 PM
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AShearer
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Default **** perspective on 993 pricing

Guys:

I'm still in the hunt for the "right" 993 for me. I've done some research, took all of the cars I found on-line below 40,000 miles only 97's and 98', C2S and C4S. I put these in a spreadsheet and did the following analysis.

Purchase price divided by the number of miles below 40K, the car has on it. This gives you cost per mile UP TO 40K. Then, I assumed that the car with 40K on it would be worth $40,000. Then calculated the residual cost per mile.

The interesting thing is, the car with the lowest cost per mile in both categories was a 98 C2S with 10,000 miles on it, listed for $68,500.

I used 40K miles as the drop off point, because from what I see, this seems to be the mileage where the prices start to depreciate more rapidly.

Please challenge my assumptions here? If you think I'm just crazy, please keep you opinions to yourself.
Old 06-04-2007, 09:44 PM
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zicoramone
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Originally Posted by AShearer
If you think I'm just crazy, please keep you opinions to yourself.
Yes, you are crazy!

- sell your car add the $68,500 and buy a GT3 RS. Voilá
Old 06-04-2007, 09:52 PM
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Phil
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Originally Posted by AShearer
Guys:

I'm still in the hunt for the "right" 993 for me. I've done some research, took all of the cars I found on-line below 40,000 miles only 97's and 98', C2S and C4S. I put these in a spreadsheet and did the following analysis.

Purchase price divided by the number of miles below 40K, the car has on it. This gives you cost per mile UP TO 40K. Then, I assumed that the car with 40K on it would be worth $40,000. Then calculated the residual cost per mile.

The interesting thing is, the car with the lowest cost per mile in both categories was a 98 C2S with 10,000 miles on it, listed for $68,500.

I used 40K miles as the drop off point, because from what I see, this seems to be the mileage where the prices start to depreciate more rapidly.

Please challenge my assumptions here? If you think I'm just crazy, please keep you opinions to yourself.
wow!
here is a tip when buying a 993.......
Find a good car.....have a PPI done......buy it! good cars will get all the money!, unless you find a buyer needing a quick sale.

Throw out all the Kellybluebooks, N

ADA guides, Black books etc.......They do not reflect the market on these cars.

Over analyze an investment, purchasing a 993 does not require a spread sheet. sheesh!
Old 06-04-2007, 10:05 PM
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ppashley
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I did a lot of analysis around pricing for purchasing my '95 993 last year.

I did scatter charts of prices by mileage, but these cars have varied and costly original options, plus potentially extensive aftermarket mods, that can affect desirability, +/- (all 'in eyes of beholder'), has it had any engine work (for a '96+ has it had the CEL issue sorted) and simple analysis does not take these factors into consideration.

At the end of the day its just input data into your decision making process.

What really counted for me was finding the car with the spec and history I wanted. This is for most an emotive purchase rather than one of economics, else we'd all be driving 350Z's... far more sensible.

Plus there were other intangiable factors which were too complex to factor in, such as confidence in the seller, as a reputable company for example.

Essentially its important to know market parameters, but when you see that car with the spec you're after in great condition, then it's your call if you want to pay up or not. Analysis just provides you with information to negociate pricing. These are scarce cars, so patience is important, strike fast when you see what you are looking for, and get a PPI from an independant shop, preferably recommended from rennlisters.

Just my 2c.

Good Luck!

Phil

'95 993 Coupe
(Stock)
Old 06-04-2007, 10:06 PM
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jimbo3
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Your only assumption is that a typical 97-98 2S and 4S with 40,000 miles is worth $40,000. Will keep my opinion to myself, as requested.

-Jim
Old 06-04-2007, 10:06 PM
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AS,

I do know that it can be daunting and the web can provide too much info. When I am looking for a car and comparing one deal vs. another I add/subtract .20/mile. Its easy and allows me to see what is the better deal...the 1996 with 40k miles for $45K or the 1996 with 60k miles for $40k.

In the end though these aren't the rarest or cars and are made to be driven. Find a car in good shape with a PO you are comforatable with (this is a big one for me...I think you can tell alot about how a car was/is maintained by the PO...his lawn, house, lots of Pcar books, enthusiast? etc.). Get a PPI and have at it. No offense but I am always amazed when people talk of taking 6 month to find a car. Right now YOUR car is on Autotrader.com/Cars.com/Rennlist or the PCA classifieds waiting for you.

Don't by a 993 for $68K.

I got mine for 33K with about 35k miles and drive it very very hard...no CEL, only pads, tires, oil and brake fluid after 4 years and 50 +/- track days. Nock wood....

Good luck.

Jamie
Old 06-04-2007, 10:08 PM
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scott watkins
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Buy my '97 c4s, problem solved.
Old 06-04-2007, 10:08 PM
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Knock wood I should say...hope this doesn't come back to bite me.
Old 06-04-2007, 10:09 PM
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See there....Scott Watkins has YOUR car. Way to go Scott.

Is this a great place or what?
Old 06-04-2007, 10:11 PM
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scott watkins
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Lord knows I don't do much, but I sure do try ;-)
Old 06-04-2007, 10:16 PM
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DC from Cape Cod
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Please don't take this the wrong way but there is a value difference between a 1996 C2 with 35K miles and a 1998 C2S with 10K miles.

Some people search for a car based on price range first.

Other search for the car they want first, then they haggle over the price.

Completely different market.

It took me almost 18 months to find the car I wanted....some are hard to find.
Old 06-04-2007, 10:44 PM
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GARY 95 993
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In the end if you like it buy it.
Old 06-04-2007, 10:55 PM
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jford
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DC,

You are indeed right. C2's are far more plentiful and I know, for some, the color combinations that they will consider limit the choice. I initially rejecte my car because of the hideous blue interior bits but, knowing it was to become primarily a track car, pulled the trigger based on the condition, price and low mileage.

I may have been a bit harsh (for lack of a better word) in saying that 'I don't know why it takes some so long to find a car' .

Cheers,

Jamie
Old 06-04-2007, 11:13 PM
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Ed Burdell
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I put a lot of science into my purchase:

Is it black with a red interior? If yes, then:
Has it been crashed? If no, then:

Done.
Old 06-04-2007, 11:31 PM
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I did something similar before I bought mine. Then I found mine, and I knew based on its condition that it was the one. Based on my calculations, it was about 2500 bucks higher than it "should" cost. I paid the extra money. I'm happy.

If I had remained too wedded to my analysis, I might still be driving an Accord. Is that 2500 bucks a factor, 8 months down the road? Hell no.


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