LPMM, UNHOLY SH!T!!!
03-12-2007, 03:34 PM
#31
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My sound clips should be running, search through on my putfile site. Let me know if any need refreshing as they can time out over the months.
Cheers,
David
Cheers,
David
03-12-2007, 07:19 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Svaha
Caveman, which of your putfile clips corresponds to LPMM's?
.. Great site btw David, love it 
03-12-2007, 10:30 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by TRINITONY
Tks..clamps are already off..the muffler is just hanging on the hook I guess...was to late to fuss with it. After unhooking everything I was wondering why the unk it wouldn't fall..of course after a lil research here I found out there's a hook.. 
Just got done taking the mufflers off. Theyr're some big cans..damm.
Anyways, can I or should I do the LPMM and allow for the heat shield or do away with the shields?
03-12-2007, 10:46 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by TRINITONY
Just got done taking the mufflers off. Theyr're some big cans..damm.
Anyways, can I or should I do the LPMM and allow for the heat shield or do away with the shields?
Anyways, can I or should I do the LPMM and allow for the heat shield or do away with the shields?
03-13-2007, 01:00 AM
#38
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I did a few things:
1 - I replaced the bolts and lock nuts that hold the head sheilds with stainless steel ones.
2 - I used a zip blade (a very thin grinding blade that can we used on a hand held grinder) to do the rough cutting and then a air die grinder to get the curves in.
3 - I painted the shields with aluminum high temp header paint to freshen the look and protect the new exposed metal
4 - Now you can mount your nice and shiny heat shields on the mufflers again and go from there. They mufflers generate a lot of heat so you want the shields.
Cheers,
Mike
1 - I replaced the bolts and lock nuts that hold the head sheilds with stainless steel ones.
2 - I used a zip blade (a very thin grinding blade that can we used on a hand held grinder) to do the rough cutting and then a air die grinder to get the curves in.
3 - I painted the shields with aluminum high temp header paint to freshen the look and protect the new exposed metal
4 - Now you can mount your nice and shiny heat shields on the mufflers again and go from there. They mufflers generate a lot of heat so you want the shields.
Cheers,
Mike
Last edited by Mike J; 03-13-2007 at 02:56 AM.
03-13-2007, 06:37 AM
#40
Rennlist Member
Mark,
Apologies, I thought there were more LPMM clips. The only one is the one that Viggo referred to. Check out the older white 911 pulling away at Brands!
Cheers,
David
Apologies, I thought there were more LPMM clips. The only one is the one that Viggo referred to. Check out the older white 911 pulling away at Brands!
Cheers,
David
03-13-2007, 06:59 AM
#41
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Mike J
I did a few things:
1 - I replaced the bolts and lock nuts that hold the head sheilds with stainless steel ones.
2 - I used a zip blade (a very thin grinding blade that can we used on a hand held grinder) to do the rough cutting and then a air die grinder to get the curves in.
3 - I painted the shields with aluminum high temp header paint to freshen the look and protect the new exposed metal
4 - Now you can mount your nice and shiny heat shields on the mufflers again and go from there. They mufflers generate a lot of heat so you want the shields.
Cheers,
Mike
1 - I replaced the bolts and lock nuts that hold the head sheilds with stainless steel ones.
2 - I used a zip blade (a very thin grinding blade that can we used on a hand held grinder) to do the rough cutting and then a air die grinder to get the curves in.
3 - I painted the shields with aluminum high temp header paint to freshen the look and protect the new exposed metal
4 - Now you can mount your nice and shiny heat shields on the mufflers again and go from there. They mufflers generate a lot of heat so you want the shields.
Cheers,
Mike
a) used the zip wheel and die grinder to 'saddle notch' the bypass pipe first.
b) when this pipe was a tight fit to the muffler pipes, it was traced with a Felt Tip pen.
c) used a hole saw to punch through and the die grinder to remove the rest prior to welding .... can't have any restriction
Think I'll redo the heat shields your way!
03-16-2007, 11:41 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by FisterD
Definately notch-out the heat shield to fit the new bypass pipe.
03-17-2007, 12:03 AM
#44
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It was 94 here today! It's hard to imagine it snowing anywhere. You've got to get that bad boy out, warmed up, and smack the tach a few times. That's when the beast is roused. 
03-17-2007, 12:05 AM
#45
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Originally Posted by Svaha
It was 94 here today! It's hard to imagine it snowing anywhere. You've got to get that bad boy out, warmed up, and smack the tach a few times. That's when the beast is roused.
next week