Peter R.

Mine have arrived too. Thx man !

Peter R.

Toga

Well the States are not so far! I received mine today!! Thanks Colin! Thanks for organizing that. And the circuit is a piece of art!
During a short visit in Atlanta, I bought almost all the parts at radio shack. I see that some of us wonder about the box. Radio shack has hard ABS plastic boxes with an internal aluminum support (ref: project enclosure 6X3X2") It fits the width of the circuit quite well.

And now let's go for a "how to solder electronic parts" crash course

Cheers

Jukelemon

Hi all.

The component set and wiring is pretty straight forward BUT I don't see hookup directions for the OBD2 connector and serial port. It states where on the board in general BUT I do not see the specific hookup info i.e. which port to which. Does the OBD15 mean something i.e. a specific port? If so, what is the orientation of the plug that corresponds to it-likewise for the serial cable.

Thx

cowtown

The numbers on the OBD and Serial labels refer to the port pins. I think there may be tiny numbers on the OBD plug on the car, but here are the standard DB9 male and OBD2 female pin layouts.

It's important that these be right, so make sure you triple check them when doing the connectors!


EDIT - I saw your other post asking for help - go ahead and post questions here, or PM me. I've built 7 of these things now and will help you get it built as much as I can.

Bill Verburg

I received mine. Thanks!

fredo

If there is another run, or you find one in between the couch cushions, I'll take one.

Also, if anyone has an extra, I'm good with an ESD soldering iron and will assemble in trade for a bare board.

Thanks!
-fredo

cowtown

The numbers on the board correspond to the pin numbers on the OBD port. I.E., OBD15 is pin 15 of the OBD plug. Take a look at the graphic file with the pins in my previous post. Only the pins with wire connections on the board need to be hooked to the OBD connector - they're not all used.

Same goes with the serial connection.

You can use any fuse holder you like. I've seen blade fuses, round glass fuses, and PC mount fuses (which is what's in my picture in post 1 of this thread) used in this board. As long as it's close to the right amperage spec (see the bill of materials). An automotive fuse of any style is fine.

In my case I did solder the LEDs to wires and then the wires to the board. Note that you can just mount the LEDs and even switches directly to the board if you like. Some poeple just mount everything directly and don't put the board in a box at all. That works fine too.

Hope this helps. You'll get it up and running.

Colin

Peter R.

If I may be so inquisitive...what's with the three switches ? Thanks !

Peter R.

Toga

My "box" is ready gentlemen! But I found out that I don't have any plug on my laptop to receive the connector...Tomorrow morning at the computer shop to find a solution. May be a converter to usb?
Every connection was checked at least 3 times, and my soldering knowledge grew up at each component What I found the most difficult... to solder the wires to the connectors. The receiving pins on those connectors are quite small and close to each other.
Thanks again for the job Cowtown!

I'll Keep you informed

Cheers

cowtown

Sounds good JP. I think you may have a problem with a USB converter. I haven't tried one, but the 964 guys were running into issues. You might try adding a card that gives you a real serial port (if your computer is a desktop). If you've got a laptop, it might be best to borrow a machine with a working port just to verify the PCB is working before trying out a USB converter.

I got a question about the capacitor spots on the PCB. There are spaces for three, but only two are used. There was a debate about how much filtering was needed and I left the extra space on for those who want to use it. But every one I've built has worked fine with just the two caps.

Colin

Toga

Thanks for those inputs Colin. I have a few days off next week, I'll work on that.

JasonAndreas

Could someone tie the two k-lines together and see if everything still works?

Make sure the USB -=> RS-232 converter uses an FTDI chip and you should be okay.

Toga

Thanks Jason !

stedge

I am late to this but just one basic question (and I tried that link but am told I have to download an application... so I did not):

What is the benefit of these boards? Do they convert an OBDII to OBDI and thereby negate the possibility of the CAI problem? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Just curious.

Thanks

maurice97C2S

Wrong tree, Stedge ...

These boards allow the serial interface of your laptop to talk safely to the OBD port on your car. Then you can run the Scantool software to communicate with the ECU, CCU and other control units in your car, to interrogate and reset fault codes, look at sensor outputs etc. Pretty much what an OPC can do with a Bosch Hammer, PST2 etc.

Note this is for OBD1 systems, OBD2 systems are generally available .. your US 97 C4S will be OBD2 ..

cheers, Maurice