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Rotors/Pads DIY Query

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Old 01-13-2007, 09:16 PM
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TMc993
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Default Rotors/Pads DIY Query

Okay....I'm about to take the plunge into the rotor/pad DIY. I've done this on other cars so it isn't THAT threatening, but I do have one concern. Looking at the DIY on pcar.com, there is a reference to cutting the brake line bracket on the strut to eliminate the need to disconnect the brake lines.

This concept is attractive to me in that I HATE breaking into any hydraulic circuit (Don't even ask why!), but at the same time, I'm a little squeamish about cutting into the brake line bracket.

Have any of you done this? If so, any suggestions/hints?

Also, any other "Heads up!" warnings or hints will be appreciated.

TIA.

TMc
Old 01-13-2007, 09:54 PM
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911C2
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I did my front pads a few months ago in the garagge with the car's jack. I knwo insane ha? But it went easy. I did not open any hydraulics and did not cut the conector either. Went smooth as silk.

I do have one suggestion Order the sensors when you get the pads and rotors. I spent more time trying to get the sensors out w/o breaking them and then ended up breaking one on each side anyways.

Got OEM rotors from Sunset in OR.
Old 01-13-2007, 10:15 PM
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Dudley
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You do not need to cut the connector to change the rotors. If you pull the holding clip, you will have enough play to remove the calipers and the rotors.
Though if you have a dremel tool, cutting the bracket is simple enough and it will make the brake job easier. You will need to cut this bracket anyways once you get around to updating your suspension.
Old 01-13-2007, 11:03 PM
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Leland Pate
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Yup, just snip the bracket as posted. It's no big deal and it'll make future work easier.
Good luck with your rotor job. I need to do the same... ...again...
Old 01-13-2007, 11:13 PM
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4X4SCHE
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If you are just doing pads or rotors there is absolutely no reason or benefit to cut the bracket that holds the brake line to the strut. This bracket need only be modified if you are changing the struts. This is because it is lets you remove and replace the strut without diconnecting the flexible line from the hard line where it joins at the bracket, avoiding opening the hydraulics.
Old 01-13-2007, 11:20 PM
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Mark Harris
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Bought my front pads and sensors from Sunset in OR. They are awesome. Saved a ton over the local stealer. I have a C4S. If you happen to have big reds, I have an extra set of back pads and sensors (OE textar from Sunset) that I will make you a good deal on.
Old 01-14-2007, 10:09 AM
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dhicks
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Totally agree with 4x4SCHE.....I did mine rotors and pads last year and did not cut the bracket....just pulled the clip and that was sufficient......however when I changed my suspension I did cut the backet, as other said, its no biggy, but I dont think really necessary when doing rotors........another vote for Sunset here, jeff is great
Old 01-14-2007, 11:20 AM
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TMc993
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Thanks guys...That's what I need to know.

TMc
Old 01-14-2007, 10:31 PM
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Jeff96-993
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I replaced rotors and didn't cut the bracket... pull the retainer and you have enough wiggle room to move the caliper out of the way to get the rotor off, just like the others have mentioned.

HOWEVER, you do not have infinite room, and if you get careless you could put a kink in the metal line. Make sure the caliper is supported by a careful helping hand while you R&R the rotor.

I've always managed to avoid problems, but it's something to be careful about.
Old 01-15-2007, 10:22 AM
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Paul902
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When I installed my HD's, I actually left the tabs uncut, and had Porsche route the brake lines through them when they were doing a fluid change....
Old 01-16-2007, 01:40 AM
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Pete Lech
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I also did pads and rotors all around without cutting the brackets - no problems.

I left out the anti-squeal shims, and am sorry I did, because after a short while the noise became horrendous. I plan on going back in and reinstalling them. The car is used mostly on the street, with some autocrossing.



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