How much brake fluid is required to bleed brakes and clutch slave cylinder?
#1
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OK, I know some of you guys have done this. Do you have any ideas how many litres (liters) of juice is required?
Thanks in advance.
Harry
Thanks in advance.
Harry
#2
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1 ltr. I checked this last week as I 'd like to do it this winter. give me a second to find the source again...
see second post here
Cheers
see second post here
Cheers
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Harry
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WIthout doing the clutch, I use a full 1/2 liter bottle of Motul Racing 600. I keep another available just in case and for later topoffs. At the next annual change, I throw the remainder away and start over with 2 bottles. I use a vacuum bleeder, which may use less fluid than a pressure bleeder as it is slower.
I do not have big reds, and they may have a higher caliper capacity.
I need to do my clutch.
I do not have big reds, and they may have a higher caliper capacity.
I need to do my clutch.
#7
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You guys are better than I am then. I typically switch ate colors (blue/gold) and find that I need at least 1.5 liters to see good color coming out. At $10/l it seems better to err on excess. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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#8
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by RS man
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Harry
My first Motive bleeder was missing the gasket in the cap and that kept it from pressurizing. It is obvious if you don't have a vent tube - there's a short cap on the reservoir.
#9
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The system holds precisely 0.9litres with level in container at top. (workshop manual)
but the bleeding proceedure takes so much more.
I make sure I use a brand new can of brake fluid, and not an open can.
Brake fluid highly absorbs humidity, so use a new can.
Blue fluid comes in two sorts. DOT 5.0 and DOT 5.1
Even if it is harder to fall on the DOT 5.0, do not use this brake fluid.
The DOT 5.0 is not for cars with ABS. (much for racing)
the DOT 5.1 is perfectly useable and for ABS
but the bleeding proceedure takes so much more.
I make sure I use a brand new can of brake fluid, and not an open can.
Brake fluid highly absorbs humidity, so use a new can.
Blue fluid comes in two sorts. DOT 5.0 and DOT 5.1
Even if it is harder to fall on the DOT 5.0, do not use this brake fluid.
The DOT 5.0 is not for cars with ABS. (much for racing)
the DOT 5.1 is perfectly useable and for ABS
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Of course I do it a bit different...... ;-)
I flush my system with Castrol brake fluid bought at Walmart...brand new from the bottle, good stuff just a lower boiling point than the Super Blue.. I use LOTS of fluid (several cans), keep flushing until I figure its nice and clean, then I use SuperBlue to do the final replacement. Yes there might be traces of the Castrol stuff in the system but only traces and this way I know that I have flushed it out as best as I can.....
Oh, I use compressed air with a custom cap and a pressure regulator...infinite air and works like a charm.
Your mileage may vary...
I flush my system with Castrol brake fluid bought at Walmart...brand new from the bottle, good stuff just a lower boiling point than the Super Blue.. I use LOTS of fluid (several cans), keep flushing until I figure its nice and clean, then I use SuperBlue to do the final replacement. Yes there might be traces of the Castrol stuff in the system but only traces and this way I know that I have flushed it out as best as I can.....
Oh, I use compressed air with a custom cap and a pressure regulator...infinite air and works like a charm.
Your mileage may vary...
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#11
Burning Brakes
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Like Mike, when I'm doing a flush I use copious amounts of basic brake fluid. Then ATE Super Blue until only blue comes out of the system. If I ever start using SRF maybe I'll flush with blue first!
But I use the Motive bleeder as intended, I fill it with fluid so I don't have to keep disconnecting it and topping the M/C off.
But I use the Motive bleeder as intended, I fill it with fluid so I don't have to keep disconnecting it and topping the M/C off.
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I am with Mike on the compressed air and no worries about the exact pressure....the regulator takes care of it. It only takes a second or two to top up the fluid level in the M/C.
I will post a picture of my setup when I bleed the fleet!
Cheers!
I will post a picture of my setup when I bleed the fleet!
Cheers!
#13
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Hello RS Man,
I assume you know our cars have a hydraulic brake booster.(BB)
The procedure is different than non BB equipped cars.
It is well described in Book 4 section 4-47 of the "Repair Manual".
Email/PM if you want more info.
Cheers,
I assume you know our cars have a hydraulic brake booster.(BB)
The procedure is different than non BB equipped cars.
It is well described in Book 4 section 4-47 of the "Repair Manual".
Email/PM if you want more info.
Cheers,
#14
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Monique, is it just the RS with the hydraulic brake booster? Does it mean that I will have to bleed the brake master cylinder, ABD circuit, brake booster circuit?
Harry
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Harry