cowtown

No, you're almost there. Check assembly one more time and post a couple pictures of the front and back sides of your board. Also your cable and plug.

Do you have a multimeter with a continuity function? Forget the jumpers on the switch connections and test the switch itself. It's worth the $10 to get a meter if you don't have one.

You're using the latest Scantool and CFg file, right?

You'll get it going.

tj90

Thaddeus: Im pulling for you! Im still waiting on my OBD cable which should have been here today. Its a great idea to post pics of your board so that we can all look at the assembly. Take a look at my board - you guys see anything wrong? The only thing I worry about is heating the PNPs and NPNs too much during soldering. The board is discolored in a few areas. I wonder if there is a way to test the transistors while they are soldered in???

Cupcar#12

is it too late for a 964'er? - just saw this thread (need to hang out here more often )

Thaddeus

I appreciate the words of encouragement!
I have been using a mulimeter. I am using the latest scantool and config file.

I replaced one resistor I thought might be bad but that didn't change anything. I also tested continuity from each pin on the OBD cable through to the db9 connector. I built an interesting matrix chart.

I also tested the switches.

I'll post some pics tonight. The board was prettier before I started re-heating solder joints and replacing various components... but there it is.

jimq

will the Alarm code below taken from the 993 part work on my 964 or will I mess something up?

[Alarm]
address=64
baudRate=9600

Input.1=Door sw:
Input.2=EngineHood:
Input.3=LuggageComp:
Input.4=PositionSw:
Input.6=CentralLock:
Input.7=GloveComp:
Input.8=Radio:

Switch.1=Act:
Switch.2=DeA:

raycm

tj90,

Your pcb.
R1, R2 should be red/red/red looks like orange on them.
The switches. I can't follow wires. Middle sw contact to middle pad on board.
The connectors seem to be reversed. Left side of board DB9 should have nine pin connector and I see a nine pin connector on right side of board. If that is for the PC serial port it should be female and the one in your picture is a male.
The transistor at the bottom/center of board should be 2n3906 all other 2n3904.
Nice fuse and as ugly as mine.

When you connect board to your PC and configure Hyperterminal you will test transitors. An ohmmeter can also check diodes and transistors.

FYI. To prevent overheating parts when soldering use needle nose pliers and hold lead between part and pcb pad while soldering. Of course turn heat control to low heat, use small solder tip and all that type of stuff.

Ray

Thaddeus

I tested all the leads from the obd side to the db9 side and got the following results. I touched the ohmmeter to the respective OBD pins in my OBD plug and then to each of the active db9 pins in succession. Perhaps somebody whose board is working could test theirs the same way and see if my results indicates some flaw?

Tested with ohm meter from pin to outputs (DB9 side)

switches in left/left position (Alarm/ABS/CC) (this is the one that works)

obd 3: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)
obd 5: needle nudges up at 3 db9 output points, jumps way up at one
obd 7: nothing, infinite resistance
obd 15: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)
obd 16: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)

switches in right/left position (airbags) (does not work)

obd 3: nothing, infinite resistance
obd 5: needle nudges up at 3 db9 output points, jumps way up at one
obd 7: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)
obd 15: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)
obd 16: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)

switches in left/right position (motronic) (does not work)

obd 3: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)
obd 5: needle nudges up at 3 db9 output points, jumps way up at one
obd 7: nothing, infinite resistance
obd 15: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)
obd 16: needle nudges up at all 4 db9 output points (small current flow)


I tried running the system with a different PC, a Toshiba Satellite, using a USB to DB9 adaptor I bought at Radio Shack. I tried it with the power supply connected to the laptop and the engine running. I was able to connect to the ABS/CC/Alarm stuff no problem. Still could not connect to Motronic or Airbag systems. This seems to imply it's a problem with my handiwork on the circuit board, since I'm getting the same results with 2 separate PC's.

But it would seem we have another USB to DB9 adaptor that can work with this system, Radio Shack 6' USB to DB9 connector cable, part number 26-183, 37 bucks. FWIW, it worked on my Toshiba. Obviously I am not representing that it will work for other people or that it might not cause issues with the PC or the car's computer, so try it at your own risk. And the guy told me they would accept it for a refund if it did not work with my peripheral. I am running XP on my laptop and I was able to assign the USB-DB9 port 'COM1' in XP, which is the default port for Scantool, so the amount of software configuration is minimal.

Any input appreciated.

Thaddeus

tj90

Ray: Thanks for the feedback. To answer your comments: The resistors are 3 bands of red, switches are wired so that middle bad to middle switch, left pad goes to left side of switch. The DB9 and DB19 connector are reversed to be compatible with cables I already had. The DB19 goes to a female DB9 plug that plugs to COM1 port on PC. I ohmed out both connections to make sure that wires are going to proper pins.

I hooked everything up. Running scantool v4, swapped cfg files with 993 files. Tried connecting with car ignition on and off (car not running in either case) and seeing blinking LEDs but nothing else. Scantool GUI interface blinks "connecting" but never connects. Using hyperterminal that came with XP, I create a .ht session to COM1 - i type random keys on the keyboard and not seeing any characters reflected back. I assume that board is not behaving correctly but maybeIm using hyperterminal incorrectly. Maybe transistors not working?

Here is something else Im finding when scantool.exe is not running, ignition on and hyperterminal off:

Switch 1 in any position and switch 2 to the left (pins 1& 2 shorted) - LED 3 (PWR) constant on.

When scantool is running and trying to connect:

Switch 2 must be to the right (pins 2&3 shorted) to see any LEDs light.
With Switch 2 to the right, and switch 1 center, L3 pwr is constant on.
With switch 2 to right, and switch 1 right (pins 2&3 shorted) L3 and L2 (poll) alternate blinking.
With switch 2 to right, and switch 1 left (pins 1&2 shorted) L3 blinks.

Funny LED 1 (L1) never lights.

Im tired, so im quiting for the night. My plan of attack is to check schematic and make sense of the behavior im seeing. To any of you guys that have this working - can you confirm that the LEDs and switch positions seem correct? I can short the LEDs (they were 1.6V) so they are suspect. I also am concerned that heat during soldering may have fried a transistor.... Does not make sense why switch 2 must be to rght to see LEDs. If its centered or left, no LED blinks - thats funny.....


Switch

raycm

"Using hyperterminal that came with XP, I create a .ht session to COM1 - i type random keys on the keyboard and not seeing any characters reflected back. I assume that board is not behaving correctly but maybeIm using hyperterminal incorrectly. Maybe transistors not working? "

You neeed to fix this. If it doesn't loop data it doesn't work.
Hyperterminal test has a couple of steps. Shorting pin 2 to 3 and seeing echo proves hyperterminal is working to the connector.

LED. An LED that should light and doesn't can be checked by replacing with one know to work. It can also be checked by shorting across the outer leads of the transistor. If it doesn't light then transistor or resistors, diode asscociated with it have issue. Most likely transistor.

Ray

raycm

Thaddeus,

You have 2 working interface boards. You probably have some issue with Motronic.
I have same question from my last post. What type of ALARM do you have? Do you have a ignition key with RF connect to the alarm?
Another question. What year/model auto do you have?
See below comments that cause me to make the above conclusions.

I believe you have 2 PCs, and 2 interface boards that talk to your auto with same results.
"I was able to connect to the ABS/CC/Alarm stuff no problem."
This means the PC serial port is working, the OBD pin 15 wakeup is working, the OBD pin 3 is sending/receiveing data and is working. The interface board is working except for the possibility of the OBD pin 7 connection to switch 2. (Ignoring SRS) Pin 7 is the data line for Motronic. Some alarms disable this line until you disable the alarm.

"tried running the system with a different PC, a Toshiba Satellite, using a USB to DB9 adaptor I bought at Radio Shack. I tried it with the power supply connected to the laptop and the engine running. I was able to connect to the ABS/CC/Alarm stuff no problem. Still could not connect to Motronic or Airbag systems. This seems to imply it's a problem with my handiwork on the circuit board, since I'm getting the same results with 2 separate PC's."

There is a small possibility that you have the same mistake with 2 interface boards.
1) Both boards use the same switches and they are not configured as Common, normally closed, normally open. But I believe you disconnected the switches and put wire jumper to correct wiring.
2) Your auto may not like the Motronic address/baud rate.

As I said last time the Alarm has kept others from connecting to Motronic, until it was disabled.

Ray

Thaddeus

Ray, I only have 1 interface board. I connected it to 2 PC's to rule out the PC as an issue.

I have a 1995 C4.

I have tried it with the engine running, alarm clearly disabled.

I will look at the components that are not shared between 3 and 7, focusing on potential problems with line 7. I will also play with the baud rate in the config file for Motronic, if you think that's OK to do. maybe the 964 baud rate would be more appropriate for an older 993...

edit: obviously have to set the baud rate in windows too

Thaddeus

I have a key with a separate alarm fob. I'm assuming the alarm is deactivated because I'm trying to connect with the engine running.

raycm

Your saying you can enable the alarm from the fob? Then it is RF (radio frequency) controlled.
As I suggested the first message I wrote, you should read the OBD1 thread.
A couple of persons had the issue with this style alarm. It prevented the Motronic from talking over the OBD interface. There is discussion of the wiring from Motronic through the alarm then to the OBD connector. You may think the alarm is disabled but it isn't unless you disable it properly. I don't have this style alarm. Mine is engaged and disengaged by turning the key in the door. i.e. I don't know the exact procedure for the RF alarm.

Ray

Thaddeus

Thanks Ray, I will re-read that thread more carefully. This may be the issue.

BTW, I just proved that changing the baud rate up or down only prevents the interface from working at all. Sigh. Tried 7200 and 14400; got nothing.

raycm

The interface doesn't care about baud rate. Are you using the USB to serial port converter. It cares about baud rate.

Motronic, CCU, etc all care about baud rate in that they will respond at one an not other baud rates.

Ray