mgianzero

Although the shade mechanism on some cars can be a bit noisy, there are certain things to be aware of on these shades which can lead to deeper concerns. One common scenario is the spring that attaches to the rear part of the shade guide rail which can works it's way loose. It attaches to the rail to provide tension when the rail raises and lowers with the shade opening and closing. I've discovered that many shades are secured to the rail by a standard zip tie to keep it in place. Not sure if this is done routinely on all shades. This zip tie can work its way loose and cause the spring to slip a bit.

But there are various other causes for shade noise. It might help to video the shade in action with focus on where the noise appears to give us better insight.

mgianzero

I'd also like to make a comment that those who post to Rennlist please start a new thread whenever the subject matter changes (or another problem arises) so that it makes it easier for other rennlisters to follow and help all who request it.

It also becomes confusing when old posts are revived by new users, especially when the topics are a bit different.

Thanks for understanding!

Marc

luckyJ

apologies...fairly new user so not fully up to speed with rennlist etiquette...have lots to learn but fun!....thanks

mgianzero

That's understandable. Don't want to make anyone feel uncomfortable. Here on Rennlist we are all pretty easy-going people who try to help anyone who asks.

It just makes it easier to follow topics and help other Rennlisters when we stick to the same topic. You can always start a new post for your question and then it's easier to search for and answer as a thread.

Marc

Tim, near Boston

The interior trim panels which run fore / aft and which cover the roof rails are covered in some sort of vinyl / leatherette. Over time, as the adhesive ages, the material can detach from the structural part of the trim. This may happen in a way is not noticeable from inside the car. The loose material may then foul the slide mechanism as the roof opens or closes.

It is a good idea to periodically inspect the trims while outside the car and above, looking down with the roof open. Alternatively you can run your fingers along the top side of the trims while in the car, again with the roof open, to see if any of the covering has worked loose.

If you find loose fabric, remove the trim panel from the car and reattach the vinyl / leatherette with contact cement. For this, my mechanic strongly recommended Weldwood Original, and not a water-based / "nonflammable" cement.

Tim

Q8drill

Mike,
Im installing a new motors mounting plate for the Targa roof 1996 Targa, Do i have to install the mounting plate first then the insert the cables?

Ahmad

mgianzero

Are you replacing the mounting plate driving mechanism (000-043-204-36)? I've never had to replace these piece if that's what you are referring to. If that's not the correct part, please tell us the part number you mean. Porsche does not describe all their targa parts very concisely and it's easy to get the parts mixed up.

If I do understand this to be the correct part ... then, by intuition, I would assume you would thread the cables into the mounting plate tunnels AS you are installing this piece. The reason being, if you try and thread the cables afterwards, you get into a tight space which may kink the cables by bending them too much. Why would you need to replace this part. I've never seen it wear out. Perhaps others can chime it who have, perhaps installed this part. Mike J - are you there?

Mike J

Yeah Marc, I am here, but you know more than I do about this stuff. I have not had to replace this part either. I do know when you do the alignments one motor needs to be fixed, and you adjust with the other one - NOT both at the same time.

Cheers,

Mike

Q8drill

yes Mike, Im replacing the mounting plate (000-043-204-36), The cables were stuck inside the giudes, Too much rust insdide. Water drain was plugged, I had to cut the cables then remove the mounting plate, I just recieved the mounting plate but i already had cables in place inside the tracks. I tried to insert the cables while trying to connect the guides into the end of the track but it did not work, So i will have to remove the cables and then try again.

Cheers

Mike J

So the rust was from the drains being plugged, and the water was sitting in the drain channels on each side of the roof?

There are no clear procedures for these roof mechanisms - apparently some of this was taught during the factory training, so I think the way you are proceeding is the typical way, it will take a lot of trail and error to put it all back together, and then fiddling to get the alignment just perfect. The good thing is that once you are done, you will know how to service the roof and not really be afraid of fixing it.

Cheers,

Mike

Q8drill

So now i have to pull the cables out then install the mounting plate, Im going thru pcarworkshop manual to see the drawing of parts. I inserted the new cables 3 months ago and waited till today for the mounting plate to come from Germany, Now i have to find out how to remove the cables out, I forgot, I think i have to remove the top glass, correct me is im wrong. I removed the class before to find out why the roof was stuck then i found out it was the cables stuck inside the guides.

cheers

mgianzero

Ahmad,

Yes, you most definitely need to remove the glass to proceed with replacing cables for several reasons.
1) The first reason is that you won't have the room to work with inserting the cables. What I did was remove the glass and unbolt one side guide rail at a time and pulled it about 30% inwards to the cabin so that you can negotiate the tight bend needed to install the cables. (We can go thru the steps in detail when you get there.)

2) I don't know about Mike, but I don't know of any reliable way of knowing if the cables are EXACTLY in synch with each other without looking for the pin positions that connect to the rear axle plates. I think you can be one notch off and not really know it otherwise. Mike is right in saying, once you DO get these cables synchronized (or aligned) to each other, always keep one of the two motors mounted so as to prevent the cables from moving separately.

I cannot emphasize enough the importance of not kinking the cables. They can bend a bit, but don't over bend them (you can usually tell when your going to far). When I installed the cables I also twisted each cable slightly as I feed them into the channels (or sleeves) like winding a garden hose.

Good luck!

Marc G.

mgianzero

Another thing to note is, once you have the cables synchronized and have one motor installed, you can test it very easily by watching the pins move to the exact same position at the same time. I note where they are once they rise up in the knock out lever (where the pins raise up in the guides when glass fully closed). You can do this with one motor mounted, but be careful that the cables do not meet much resistance as they will bend and possible kink where the missing motor mount to the mounting plate.

Also do not run just one motor with the glass installed. This causes too much strain on one motor and the cables can kink or get chewed where the motor gears engage the cables.

Q8drill

I will replace the shock obsorbers and the drive shafts boots till i get somebody to help me remove the top glass, i dont want to scratch anything. I just recieved a set of Bilstein shocks. I had hard time to remove the drive shafts, Hard to remove the drive shaft even after removing the shock obsorbers. Nothing easy to do in this car. Thats why the dealer charge us a lot if we have to go there.

cheers

mgianzero

Good luck with it Ahmad. The top can be removed with one person, but it's good practice to have a second pair of hands on your first removal. I must have taken my top glass out about 10 times (I've had several problems w/ my car, as well as I try to do things in baby steps and still drive it.

I use a set of beach towels to cover the glass openings (A and B pillars and front windshield) so you can gently rest the glass once you remove it. The other things I do is COMPLETELY remove the cover strips that go along side the glass. I believe the Porsche manual says to merely lift them partially out. But if you did this they just get in the way and just easier to pull them out. You can slide them in and out fairly easily once you break the adhering tape beneath it. After you put them back you can adhere the cover strips again. But I've been driving my car around for a year and the cover strips seem to do just fine without any adhesive.