DOT-R vs Slicks
#1
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I have been using slicks for the past 3 years and have never used DOT-R tires but am interested in the pluses and minuses of DOT-R's.
Does anyone have any experience with running both slicks and DOT-R's? I am looking for opinions on adhesion vs longevity of both. If I can get more track days out of DOT-R's I am inclined to try them as long as I do not lose a lot of stickiness.
TIA
Does anyone have any experience with running both slicks and DOT-R's? I am looking for opinions on adhesion vs longevity of both. If I can get more track days out of DOT-R's I am inclined to try them as long as I do not lose a lot of stickiness.
TIA
#2
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Right away, if I were you, the person I know with the most experience in this department is Kary at Group 9 Motorsports. Google Group 9...it will come up. Group 9 is a Rennllist sponsor too.
If you have any needs for racing tyupe stuff, Kary is a great source.
If you have any needs for racing tyupe stuff, Kary is a great source.
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#3
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R rated tires are a cross between a slick and a street tire. As such, they are heavier and do not have as much grip. R Rated tires are WAY better than street tires for grip. They are also a little more informative as to when they are about to let loose over slicks. They are also more expensve than slicks.
Depending on the slick you are using and the compound, they may last just as long as an R Rated tires. I got about 24 heat cycles out of my slicks (Yokohamas), Before with the Pilot sport Cups, they were great for the first 8 or so heat cycles and then drifted off and were generally done with around the same number of heat cycles. All in all I felt that I saved money and had MUCH better traction with slicks...
Depending on the slick you are using and the compound, they may last just as long as an R Rated tires. I got about 24 heat cycles out of my slicks (Yokohamas), Before with the Pilot sport Cups, they were great for the first 8 or so heat cycles and then drifted off and were generally done with around the same number of heat cycles. All in all I felt that I saved money and had MUCH better traction with slicks...
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Harvey,
I've run them all. No r-compound comes even close to slicks in stickiness. Hoosiers come a little close, but not really. Plus they have the longevity of a slick. Not worth it for DE's. What slicks have you been using (new/used)?
George
I've run them all. No r-compound comes even close to slicks in stickiness. Hoosiers come a little close, but not really. Plus they have the longevity of a slick. Not worth it for DE's. What slicks have you been using (new/used)?
George
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I have been using used Dunlops and Yokohamas mainly and I usually cord them before they start losing grip. I tried a set of Hoosiers but was not impressed with them at all (longevity or grip).
Based upon the feedback it appears that I am better off sticking (no pun intended) with the used slick program I am currently using.
Thanks!
Based upon the feedback it appears that I am better off sticking (no pun intended) with the used slick program I am currently using.
Thanks!
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If you get your used slicks for $300 from South Carolina, then there is not better option in my opinion. They typically last the weekend and many locally use them. Much better than $1,350 for Sport Cups or $1,1000 for Hoosiers. But if you race with the PCA, that's what you have to use.
George
George
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I've run the Yokos and Michelin slicks on a couple of Cup cars and get nowhere near the longevity of 24 heat cycles or come close to cording. After 5-6 heat cycles they are 1-2 seconds slower from new (now just "practice" tires) and after about 12 heat cycles they are too much work to drive fast anymore. What am I missing here? When I ran MPSC's on a track 993, I could get at least 15-20 decent heat cycles, with another 10-12 "practice" heat cycles. From my experience the MPSC would be cheaper than even used slicks. Plus you can drive them on the street if need be. Also I would never drive a slick in the rain, but have driven MPSC's with okay results.
Re: slicks giving you warning before they break away, I've noticed that when you are near the limits on slicks, they will start to "hop", particularily in the rear. Not only does it give you this warning, but I've tried to anticiapate and use the hopping to help turn the car in.
Re: slicks giving you warning before they break away, I've noticed that when you are near the limits on slicks, they will start to "hop", particularily in the rear. Not only does it give you this warning, but I've tried to anticiapate and use the hopping to help turn the car in.
#9
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Originally Posted by Harvey Yancey
I have been using used Dunlops and Yokohamas mainly and I usually cord them before they start losing grip. I tried a set of Hoosiers but was not impressed with them at all (longevity or grip).
Based upon the feedback it appears that I am better off sticking (no pun intended) with the used slick program I am currently using.
Thanks!
Based upon the feedback it appears that I am better off sticking (no pun intended) with the used slick program I am currently using.
Thanks!
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Kevin,
That slick with 12 heat cycles still works better (much better) than a brand new Hoosier or Sport Cup. You've been spoiled by the slicks. You can never go back to r-compounds.
You know I drive them until I see cord...........
George
That slick with 12 heat cycles still works better (much better) than a brand new Hoosier or Sport Cup. You've been spoiled by the slicks. You can never go back to r-compounds.
You know I drive them until I see cord...........
George