roche

where is the best place to buy a driver's side door seal for my '95 coupe? my current seal has a split right around the area your feet cross when getting in/out. i found the seal in the performance products catalog for $150, but that seems like a lot of money for a piece of rubber. any other places i can look?

thanks.

Kigiin

Same problem here too. Mine is rotten on the drivers side so need to replace it.... but $150 for only one side at Performance seems steep for just rubber.

epj993

Try Pelican Parts. Not much cheaper at about $142, though.

Don Plumley

I replaced both of mine with the Generic OEM seal from Pelican:

Coupe Door Seal, Left Or Right, 911 Carrera 2/4 (1989-94), 911 Turbo (1989-94), Each
Brand: OEM 911-531-095-02-M260 $32.25

(You will notice that the current p/n for a 993 door seal begins with "964-531-095", which crosses to this 911 part. That's why I thought it might fit a 993.)

It fit just fine, and was the right price. By two, pad your order with $13 of brake fluid or something to get it to $75, and shipping is free.

roche

i'll go there now.

Mike J

Don't complain about door seals...I had to order a new set for my Targa as part of the new roof and the cheapest I found was from Sunset at $250 EACH.

Cheers,

Mike

trojanman

Hey Don...

Took your advice and ordered these seals from Pelican. They look to be the correct fit (length, shape, etc.), but they appear to be a bit different from my OEM seals. They have "ribbing" where the OEM seals are smooth.

Do you have pictures of the generic seals installed on your 993? Would like to see the finished product before I commit to these. Thanks in advance.

Don Plumley

Sure - I'm out and will be back at the car later this PM.

trojanman

Thanks!

Don Plumley

Sorry for the delay - here's a pic, let me know if you want a different view, etc.

trojanman

Thanks Don... could you just take a shot of the whole door? Looks good by the way. How was the install? Did you use a silicone adhesive?

mike cap

Jeff,

Replacing the door seals is a royal PITA. I did mine a couple of winters ago when in storage.

What you need is a few cans of 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover to soften the factory adhesive, a bunch of wooden sticks (paint stir sticks and Starbucks coffee stir sticks), cotton rags and a new adhesive. I used and suggest Pliobond Industrial Adhesive. DO NOT use silicone glue or adhesive. You need something that will "tack" the new seal in place and the silicone will not do this. Also, silicone is the worse stuff in the world to try and remove, cured or uncured. This install is the wrong application for silicone.

Pull out the old seal, then use rags soaked with the 3M product to soften the old adhesive. A few small paint brushes will help you dab on the 3M product. I used those small battery cleaning brushes that are fairly stiff and about 3/8" wide. Very time consuming. Make sure to cover the exposed interior areas (seats, carpets) with cardboard or heavy blankets. You can use the wooden sticks and sharpen the ends as scrapers to use once the old glue softens. A lot of cotton rags will be needed to wipe off the old and softened adhesive. This will take HOURS on each side, trust me.

When all the surfaces are clean, dry fit the new seal to make sure it fits and so you know where to begin. Follow the Pliobond instructions to the letter to get the tack to work right. Install maybe 6" at a time. The Pliobond will hold the seal in place. Let it cure for 24 hours before closing the doors against the seals.

BTW, since this is such a messy job, it's a great time to change the door sills if they are beat up at all.

Hope this helps.

Mike Cap
1997 C2
Arena Red

Mike J

Interestingly enough my body shop uses a rubber adhesive that is spray on (might be 3M...I am guessing here) and it makes taking the seals off easier later on. The current seals on my doors which i am replacing are a real bear to remove since it looks like the factory or the dealer glued them down with some sort of contact cement...it makes it really hard to remove and leaves lots of residue.

What do you guys find the original glue is like on these cars and do you have any pictures? I am curious to see if the factory glue is rubber based or something different.

Cheers,

Mike

Mike J

Hi Mike,

The old sealant that you removed..was it yellow or? I think when my doors seals were reglued by the #$(*)$*)#(* dealer when they first replace my roof they used some form of contact cement...which has permanently stuck the seals to the car.

Don Plumley

Sure - but you'll just see a black line...

It's not glued in yet at all - just held in by friction. Given that, I might just tack it in a couple of places.