Don Plumley

Here you go:









Yes, getting the old adhesive out was a PITA, but a piece of cake compared to getting the carpet glue out.

Lawrence_P

I just tried this. You can insert tab "a" into slot "b". It can physically be man-handled on. However, the seal has a different profile and will produce a wind noise as a result. It is better than no seal at all, but not as good as it is supposed to be.

The seals are going back to Pelican and I am ordering the correct (costly!) one.

Thaddeus

Mine is also chewed up on the driver's side where my foot passes. The day it happened I was fit to be tied. I am not pleased to hear how much it's going to cost to fix it.

TheOtherEric

I'm surprised to hear Mike Cap describe this as a "royal PITA". My drivers side was chewed up, so I bought an OEM replacement, pulled out the old, and glued in the new. Simple as that. I saw no reason to try to remove the old adhesive.

I used Goo contact adhesive. Goo is pretty weak crap, so I'm not worried about it adhering *too* well. I paid $109 for the correct part.

Slow Guy

I realize this thread was started 9 mos. ago but for those that find this w/a search in the future you shouldn't complain at those prices for the Coupe or even the $250 for the Targa.

I purchased the Porsche replacement part from Sunset Porsche parts and it cost apx. $350 which was about $100 cheaper than the two vendors previously mentioned.

Of course the Cab seal is one contigious seal from the rear edge of one door all the way up and over the windshield-to-top and back down and all the way around the other door. I'm guessing the seal is 16' - 18' long total. I haven't done the replacement yet but I did it on my (former) '88 Cab., it was no big deal. 3M makes a very good Adhesive Remover but use it in a very well ventilated area. Using the PLASTIC putty knifes work well for this task.

2ndof2

Has anyone tried just replacing the section that was bad by cutting a short 6 or 8 inch piece and working with that instead of pulling out the whole seal and potentially creating wind noise? Seems to me a reasonable compromise and I can deal with two lines where the section starts/stops and a wallet with some money left in it alot better than a tattered & torn seal or a perfect seal and no gas money left.

tj90

Good point 2ndof2. Wonder if splicing can be done with professional results?

Thaddeus

You know what I'd be interested in... a PERMANENT solution. Because sure as rain in May the new seal is just going to get torn up again.

Just brainstroming here...

I'm thinking it might be worthwhile to get some of that gasket stock that is used on stove doors that's squishy and made out of braided stainless steel. You piece that in along the lower edge, and it would stand up to a moderate amount of abuse and still (perhaps?) seal out the wind noise... if properly done, it might look really cool too.

hm....

2ndof2

tj90,

Now that I've had some coffee and had time to think about it; it really would come down to whether the section near where your feet wears out the seal is very similar to the width & height of the older 911 part. If its significantly different the end result may not be so good.

Another idea: The wear on mine isn't so bad. It is worn through but not so bad that I'm really concerned. Mainly an asthetic issue. Maybe there's a foam or some product that could be used as a filler? It would be interesting to know if there's something that could be applied after simply trimming the area. Like a black silicone material?