MrRoboto

I'm having issues with a little water leaking in from the top portion of the front windshield. Since the outter seal is only $22, i was going to try and tackle this myself. Is there anything I should know before I do this? Is it not a good idea in the first place?

MrRoboto

Will simply using some epoxy or sealer prevent the leaks?

pcar964

When I had my windshield replaced, the guy put the outer seal on before he installed it. He said it was very difficult to install the bead-seam into the gap once it's sealed in. Personally, I didn't think it would have been a big deal - for $20, worth a shot. But as far as leaking into the cabin, it sounds like the window bonding agent (or sealant, whatever it is) is the problem.

Van1

It's not that hard to replace. Just make sure that you use rubber assembly lubricant and it will press into the channel easier, albiet you will still have to use some force as you press. Also, it may take a few tries to get the right amount of stretch as you work it around the perimeter of the windshield. To much stretch and you will end with extra material at the end. Not enough stretch and you will end up short.

s2racer

i was putting some pedro's on the rear window seal, and part of it popped out. i put it back, but it got me thinking.....maybe i'll take the whole thing off and clean and wax around it. any thoughts on ease of putting the jeannie in the bottle after i take it off?

marc

gonzilla

I was wondering how hard this is too. I want to install a new one cause mine's a little warped at the bottom, but I don't want to do it at the expense of my sanity (I could see this install either being really easy or ridiculously frustrating).

Feehliks

I don't think replacement of the outer seal (very easy!) would prevent water from getting through a leakage in the bonding or frame. That small room underneath that seal gets filled every car wash or rainshower.

Either your windshield was installed incorrectly and the glue was not distributed evenly or you have this problem with a rusting windshield frame and there is a rust hole somewhere.

The outer seal is only good for keeping dirt away and to enhance looks.

You could fill the gap between the plastic frame of the window and the body with a dedicated filling material (black and rubber-like). Don't use expoxy or those silicone sealants used in houses! However, if you have the rust issue, this would not prevent the frame from continued rusting.

Best regards,

Felix

JasonAndreas

Yes and I believe the part number for the Porsche insulating sealant is 000-043-203-48 (but double check).

johnhh

I, just this weekend went thru this exercise. I put a new outer seal on the front windshield. It was easy. You don't have to stretch the seal, the length was just right. There is a factory tech bulletin instructing to add black sealant to fill the gap between the windshield seal and the body, just as Felix says. I did this as well after fixing some minor rust that was hidden under the outer seal. Use masking tape on both sides of the 'gap' to prevent black sealant from making a mess. Also pull the masking tape off quickly before the black sealant sets up. This too was easy.

The tough part was the back window (the tech bulletin says to check both if you are doing one). The back window had hidden rust in the gap under the outer seal, just like the front window, so now I know why the tech bulletin was written. That gap under the outer seal in both the front and rear windows needs to get filled or it will collect water and rust eventually.

John H

Chuck A.

What sealant did you use? Was it from the dealer or something you picked up at Home Depot?

johnhh

Sorry I took so long to answer back. I've been out of town.

I picked up the sealant from a local auto glass shop that pulled the rear window out and re-set it for me. The sealant was Dow #U428 urethane adhesive. It's the black stuff the auto glass guys use to set new windows onto the body.

Don't forget to use plastic gloves, that black stuff gets everywhere.

John H

95 C4 993

Does anyone know who or what it replaces the plastic that the rear outer seal on the rear back window fits into? Mine is cracked on one corner and the outer seal pops out now and again. The plastic wraps all the way around the rear window and not sure if the entire window has to be removed to fix this or not.

I went to the Porsche dealership 2x and they ordered the wrong parts both times (I recevied the rubber seals 2x) and after that they couldnt tell me what part it was the 3rd time. They told me to go to a glass shop.

Any insight, home remedy, fix or the part # for a 95 C4 Coupe would be appreciated.

thanks,

johnhh

That cracked 'plastic wrap' is the tough part that I had to deal with on my rear window. Mine was cracked and broken in several spots. There is a steel strip inside the plastic as well that rusts and breaks.
The Porsche dealer here said you could not order that window edging, you had to order a whole new window.
The local auto glass guy used an aftermarket widow seal to re-set the window. The aftermarket window seal is commonly used, it comes in various widths.
First we pulled out the window and took off the old factory window edging. I then cleaned up the rust and used POR-15 to seal up the clean metal. Then we re-set the window using the aftermarket seal.
Now the tough part - filling the gap between the window and the body that is under the window seal. As I said in an earlier post, this gap will collect water and rust, but also, the window seal can settle down into the gap and create an inconsistent 'look' of how the seal sets onto the body. So, you have to fill the gap with sealant. Using the factory seal would make this process easy, but using an aftermarket window seal complicates things - You have to lift up the window seal and get the nozzle into the gap to squirt in the sealant. Squirt in enough but not too much. How much is enough - just do it, you'll see as you do it. Use masking tape to control the mess. I had to squeeze down the nozzle in a vice to make it thin enough to fit into the gap under the window seal. I used a heat gun on the nozzle as I squeezed it in the vice to help 'set' the nozzle shape. Now, the window seal will not cooperate as you move the nozzle along the gap - practice first to get the feel of how to creep the nozzle along the gap without wrinkling the window seal. You will need an assistant to hold a light so you can see into the gap along the nozzle as you squirt in the sealant.
This whole thing is awkward but not too tough. It took me about an hour to mask and maybe an hour to practice and then do the sealant. Go slow, be patient, be smarter than that window seal. It saved me the cost of a new window so it was well worth my time.
The glass guy charged $150 to pull the window and re-set it. I had to order a new inside window gasket. Put the new gasket on before you re-set the window. I used about a tube and a half of sealant when filling the gap. Find an auto glass guy who has done Porsche before if you can. There are defroster wires along the sides and bottom of the window that can be cut if the glass guy doesn't know about them.

John H

Paul902

Last night after washing my car I pulled the rear outer seal out near the bottom corners of the windsheild. I did that to blow out the water collected underneath the seal. The corner part of the seal just popped right back in with no trouble, but I cannot comment on how it would be along the length of one of the sides. I just had the front windshield of my GTi replaced and the metal around/under the windsheild is completely rotted out. That made me start worrying about the water that sits in the lower corners of the rear windsheild when it is wet. Don't want the same trouble on the 993.