ryano

Depends on how much tire you want to eat. I drove a month.... Approx 500 miles before getting my alignment. Although it would be better to have it done immediately

CaptainGSR

I don't know how the JICs work. Here is what I did with the Pss10s prior to driving the car to the alignment shop.

I set both front wheels at max negative camber. (easy to do!)

For the rear camber: I put the adjustment bolts back to where they were prior to install. Both sides were in the same position in my case.

As far as height: since the ground on my driveway is uneven, I knew I could never get anything right by measuring from the ground to the appropriate suspension points, so I just worried about the position of the two locking collars on each shock assemblies during installation. I put all of them exactly in the middle of the Bilstein's suggested adjustment range, and made sure the driver and passenger side measurements were identical (for front and rear respectively).
(Bilstein's adjustment range is not measured from the ground, but from a specific point on each shock)

Unless you are on level ground, and on scales, don't worry too much for now... The shop will take care of the rest (if they know what they are doing!!!!).

Good Luck!

Viperbob1

JICs are a bi-tube shock. totally differnet from PSS9s. Unlike PSS9s you do NOT lossen or tighten the spring perch to set ride height. The entire shock is rotated relative to the lower mount to change height. So in many ways easier to adjust unweighted compared to PSS9s. If you set overall uninstalled height of shock to that of PSS9 you will be in ballpark for JIC. Since I am sure the JICs have stiffer spring than the PSS9s it will not lower as much when weighted. So rest is trial and error.

chaoscreature

Here is the support documentation for the JIC's.
http://www.jic-magic.com/SupportDocumentation.aspx
This should have come printed with your shocks in a little baggy along with the wrenches.
I have never done this before but it seems like the tube won't be very easy to "spin" like it says to do in the instructions. The front struts will likely rotate nicely around the upper monoball but the rear shocks seem like the spring will need to drag along the upper aluminum plate. Mine are still sitting in their box so I am just guessing right now.
If anyone here has adjusted their ride height with JIC's, was it difficult or fairly easy?

JPS

Dying to hear...

As in multiple install attempts to get it right? I don't relish taking things apart again to take another stab at the ride height?

It may. They haven't been shipped yet.

EDIT: Just read the above link. So it seems that the JICs allow for ride height adjustment after install? Is this true on a 993? The installation instructions at the beginning of the thread indicate that isn't possible?

baron95993

This is a great deal thanks

JPS

So one Q on the DIY...

The steps with the Hazet tool...that seems to be only if you are going to take the entire shock/spring assembly apart? Since I'm not using any of the PSS9 on there and replacing with the JIC, it seems I can skip this step and therefore don't need the special Hazet/O2 sensor/dremelled socket?

Am I reading this right?

Viperbob1

If doing the JICs you do not need the Hazet or similar tool... You are replacing the upper mount with the monoball unit that comes with the JIC.

chaoscreature

Right,
Just drop the whole mess down by removing the four screws with a 13mm socket and an extension. Place a jack under the control arm and apply a very slight pressure to hold the struts in place, then pull all the bolts out and lower the coil/strut assembly with the control arm.

zero9nine

I found this thread today and will use it to remove my shocks and install new springs on my 964.

I was recently warned that the shock will be under a lot of load/pressure and that I may need a spring compressor to relieve the load. Is this the case? The initial instructions make no mention of it. What about the rears???

I was under the impression that the pressure is off for the most part because the shock is fully extended.

Can someone clarify this before I potentially hurt myself :-)

Thanks
John

certz

There is some load, but I did not need or use a spring compressor to take mine apart - it will "pop" apart but not enough that I thought it was a danger. I did need to compress the spring to put the coilover back together, though. So, I guess since you are going to need a spring compressor, you can use it when disassembling the coilover just to be on the safe side, but it is not going to spring apart and send parts flying everywhere.

chaoscreature

After the car is on jackstands safely you can place a small floor jack underneath the control arm to apply pressure on the coil spring. I usually lift the control arm about half an inch from it's natural resting place. Use an impact gun to pull the 21mm bolt off the top hat then slowly lower the jack and the coil springs pressure will be relieved gradually. Mine weren't under any pressure whatsoever, but this method will keep stuff from shooting across the garage just in case

ABCar

No real dangers...just take your time

InTheAir

As mentioned, there shouldn't be a real issue. Although I too was warned about this prior to doing mine (nearly 5 years ago), and I make mention of it in this DIY, for the most part it is more of a small and controllable "pop" than anything big enough to hurt you.

At least this was the case for my 1996 with its 10 year old original suspension.

Glad to see that this DIY is still paying dividends!

Neil Perry

Jeff,
Fantastic post,
I used your DIY a month ago, to replace my shocks with PSS10's and all went smoothly.
Could not of done the job so quickly without your post.
It took about 4 hours to do all 4 corners.

Thanks,
Neil