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~~DIY Suspension Install for Dummies~~~

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Old 03-10-2008, 09:00 PM
  #136  
AOW162435
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Originally Posted by progenitor04
do i need a spring compressor to remove the front shocks?
No. The entire strut assembly comes out as one unit. Once you undo the top nut, you'll see there is little to no tension on the stock spring.


Andreas
Old 03-10-2008, 09:11 PM
  #137  
InTheAir
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Originally Posted by hawk14414
Just finished up my install - no spring compressor required. Follw the DIY, and you'll be fine.
Hawk, how did your install go?
Old 04-09-2008, 01:28 AM
  #138  
FlatSix911
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I am knee deep in my new Bilstein HD suspension installation and seem to be stumped on Step 26:
PREPARING/INSTALLING NEW FRONT SHOCK/SPRING ASSEMBLY:

The two locking collars have been positioned and locked on the shock, however the lower spring perch (reused) does not seem secure and can shift back and forth on the top of the collars.
The flange on the top of the locking collars is approximately 60 mm and the ID of the lower spring perch is 70 mm – hence the wiggle room.
  1. What do I need to do to secure the lower spring perch from shifting?
  2. Should I position the smaller locking collar on top of the spring perch to sandwich it a secure position?

(F25.) Disassemble the existing shock/spring assembly. You will need to reuse the top spring perch, the thick washer/spacer, the spring hat, and the lower spring perch that supports the bottom of the spring. See pictures below for detail on assembly.

(F26.) Position and then tighten the two lock collars on the lower shaft of the Bilstein HD shock to the desired height (see Ride Height discussion above). If you do not have a pair of lock collar wrenches, you can loosen these lock collars using a flat head screwdriver placed in one of the notches and hitting with a hammer (be careful as you will be hitting aluminum lock collars with a steel screwdriver). Once loose, position the lock collars to achieve the desired ride height and re-tighten. This can be easily varied even after installation on the front of the vehicle; however, the rear of the vehicle will require partial disassembly to adjust the ride height.
Old 04-09-2008, 01:37 AM
  #139  
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I would NOT sandwich the spring perch with the collars.

The photo, if I am seeing this correctly, shows that the perch sits atop one collar that has a 'neck' on it so to speak. If the perch fits onto the neck and is held fast.. I'm pretty sure you are good to go.

I installed JIC cross on my 993 but I did the 964 with Bilstien HD and it was pretty straight forward.

These are the notes and some photos from my 964 install.
http://964-carrera.blogspot.com/2006...front-end.html

I'm surprised that you are running into questions. The HD's on the 964 where pretty straight forward, but I know the two cars are a bit different (the rears are night and day.. the 993 fronts took a couple of hours, the rears where... well you know.. like days.....
Old 04-09-2008, 01:50 AM
  #140  
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FotoVeloce, thanks for your reply.

You are correct, The lower spring perch fits over the neck (or flange) on the locking collar.
The problem is the diameter of the neck is too small to hold fast on the spring perch - perhaps I have the wrong size locking collars?



Originally Posted by FotoVeloce
I would NOT sandwich the spring perch with the collars.

The photo, if I am seeing this correctly, shows that the perch sits atop one collar that has a 'neck' on it so to speak. If the perch fits onto the neck and is held fast.. I'm pretty sure you are good to go.

I installed JIC cross on my 993 but I did the 964 with Bilstein HD and it was pretty straight forward.

These are the notes and some photos from my 964 install.
http://964-carrera.blogspot.com/2006...front-end.html

I'm surprised that you are running into questions. The HD's on the 964 where pretty straight forward, but I know the two cars are a bit different (the rears are night and day.. the 993 fronts took a couple of hours, the rears where... well you know.. like days.....
Old 04-09-2008, 01:55 AM
  #141  
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Hm. I can see your concern. Would the upper locking colar off the stock shock work? Wait.. I'm thinking 964 here.. the 993 doe not have collars on the fronts does it? I save the collars off any install that I do, never know when you might need one. The ones of the 964 might be the right diameter but the neck is probably the same size as the locking collars you already have. :/

I could dig them out and measure them if there is any value in the exercise.

Originally Posted by FlatSix911
FotoVeloce, thanks for your reply.

You are correct, The lower spring perch fits over the neck (or flange) on the locking collar.
The problem is the diameter of the neck is too small to hold fast on the spring perch - perhaps I have the wrong size locking collars?
Old 04-09-2008, 09:19 AM
  #142  
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Ted -

I'm not sure I'm understanding you correctly--however, just to be clear, the two locking collars are installed at the correct height and tightened together to prevent movement of the collars on the shaft of the shock. The lower spring perch is then slipped down over the top of the shock and simply rests on top of the top locking collar. The lower spring perch is permitted to freely rotate on top of the top locking collar and could conceivably be slipped back up the shaft. However, once everything is installed, the spring will keep the spring perch resting on top of the top locking collar.

You want the lower spring perch to rotate freely because as you can tell it has a shape that complements the lower end of the spring--namely, there are small little depressions in the spring perch that receive the end of the spring (shown in the photos).

Let me know if you are referring to something else.
Old 04-11-2008, 02:48 AM
  #143  
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Well, a bit more searching and I found the answer to my question on P-car.com:

Row M030 with HD Bilstein Suspension Installation Report
by Dan 96C2 St. Louis (Rennlist 993 Forum 6/20/02)


The installation of Gert Carnewall’s Row M030 w/HD Bilstein kit has transformed my US stock suspension 993 coupe into what I imagine the Porsche design team had originally intended – maybe even better.
However, it’s not a perfect install as I’ll discuss below.
Installation Concerns - Two concerns arose during installation.

1. Front - the inside diameter of the bottom spring coil is about a 1/2 inch greater than the diameter of the raised interior lip portion of the perch on which it sits. Under load that's not a problem. My shop was concerned that if unloaded (i.e. a really BIG bump) it could rattle - not a safety/handling issue, but rather the potential for noise. We followed the advice of Gert & others not to worry, that it won't happen in real world driving & so far it has not been a problem even at speed over rough roads.

2. Rear - the spring length is less than the shock length, so, when unloaded (i.e., on a lift or when jacked) the spring drops down & the top of the spring comes away from the upper mounting cup. Here too, Gert & others advised not to worry, because when reloaded it will go back into place. My shop, to be (perhaps over) cautious drilled holes in the top mount & safety wired the springs to keep them properly positioned even on a lift - apparently a common race car practice. Although it may be a cure for a non-problem, I appreciated my shop’s concern & conservative approach.
Old 04-25-2008, 01:52 AM
  #144  
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I am almost done with my new Bilstein HD suspension installation and seem to be stumped on the last step:

INSTALLING THE REAR SWAY BAR DROP LINKS:
  • I have the tried the 4" short drop links that were provided with the kit and they are still too long by 1":
  • I think a 3" link would fit perfectly with the sway bar over the suspension arm. Do they make a 3' link?
  • Should I try to move the sway bar under the suspension arm and go with the original longer 5" drop links?
Any help is appreciated
Old 04-25-2008, 09:49 AM
  #145  
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Ted, what makes you believe that the link is too long?

If you have the car's ride height set to RS or ROW Sport, then the provide link should be the proper length. Note that when the car is weighted on its wheels, the rear sway bar will move away from the lower cross member.

I would not suggest going under the lower cross member in your case (HDs on a 993 being lowered to RS or ROW Sport heights). Going under the member is typically for the PSS9 applications.
Old 04-25-2008, 12:46 PM
  #146  
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Ted, I had the same problem with my PSS9's and the stock swaybars. I bought 2 male and 2 female heim joints from Pegasus and it worked great. I later bought TRG bars so I had to ge the curved rs links. Let me see if I can find the heims that I used. If I can find them you can have them. They were only used for 3 months. I will look for them tomorrow. Mark
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Old 04-25-2008, 10:54 PM
  #147  
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Mark, thank you for the generous offer on the short drop links - Rennlist Rocks!
Old 04-26-2008, 08:52 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by FlatSix911
Mark, thank you for the generous offer on the short drop links - Rennlist Rocks!
Ok, I just found the heims and all the assorted bolts. PM me your address and I will try to get them shipped today. I will also include several bolt and washer combinations since i dont remember what exactly I used. They are also the top grade ones with the nylon inserts to keep them a bit quiet. I only had them on for maybe 200-300 miles so they will be good for a long time!!!
Old 04-29-2008, 10:43 AM
  #149  
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Ted, I shipped the drop links yesterday by UPS next day. You will get them today. Have a great week!
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:34 AM
  #150  
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Mark, the short drop links are perfect for the lower RS ride height and allow me to keep the sway bar above the lower cross member for greater clearance.

Thanks again!


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