Suspension,,,To DIY or not DIY,,,
02-16-2006, 01:23 AM
#46
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Originally Posted by Jason M
02-16-2006, 01:07 PM
#53
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I did mine in the garage, and like a lot of the posters here, it took a couple of days on a weekend. THey were not long days a and I could likely do it in one at this point after having gone through it once. Don't forget the TEFLON grease on the sway bars if you change them.
One part that is a PITA is the sway bar bushing in front. Just takes a little time to get them back on.
I used the spark plug socket and it worked fine on the tops of the struts in front. I did use the spring compressors and am not sure how you would get the top off of the fronts without launching it from the compressed spring. Hmmm...
Plan a GTG and maybe a bunch of us will come over, offer "help" and drink your beer!
Wo Ho
One part that is a PITA is the sway bar bushing in front. Just takes a little time to get them back on.
I used the spark plug socket and it worked fine on the tops of the struts in front. I did use the spring compressors and am not sure how you would get the top off of the fronts without launching it from the compressed spring. Hmmm...
Plan a GTG and maybe a bunch of us will come over, offer "help" and drink your beer!
Wo Ho
02-16-2006, 01:55 PM
#55
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I was curious about getting the tops off also, without a spring compressor(sp?). Excuse my ignorance, but how does this work? Thanks ahead of time, for everyone's knowledge on this stuff. I just want to be ready when the toys arrive. 
02-16-2006, 02:56 PM
#56
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There is virtually no seat pressure on the nut when the shock is extended and the nut is at the end of the shock. I have done 100+ of these cars, and have never used or needed a spring compressor. And I do take great care and safety when working, so if I thought it was even slightly necessary I would use it.
02-16-2006, 06:46 PM
#58
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Pickled Piper
I have heard mention of wiring the spring to the strut on the rear of the car to stop it rattling under full rebound. Can you shine any light on this?
In order to keep the spring properly aligned within the key, one can drill several holes into the top spring perch, and then run a wire through those holes to the spring to secure one to the other, keeping both in alignment whenever the car is airborn or the suspension is fully extended.
When the wheels return to the ground and the suspension compresses, one can be assured that the rear spring will be seated in the correct position within the top spring perch.
02-16-2006, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Lagavulin
With the new spring installed onto the new shock, the spring is shorter than the shock at full extension by about 2 inches, thus, can rattle around freely at full extension. Compounding that, the top spring perch is 'keyed' so that the spring must fit back into it one-way.
In order to keep the spring properly aligned within the key, one can drill several holes into the top spring perch, and then run a wire through those holes to the spring to secure one to the other, keeping both in alignment whenever the car is airborn or the suspension is fully extended.
When the wheels return to the ground and the suspension compresses, one can be assured that the rear spring will be seated in the correct position within the top spring perch.
In order to keep the spring properly aligned within the key, one can drill several holes into the top spring perch, and then run a wire through those holes to the spring to secure one to the other, keeping both in alignment whenever the car is airborn or the suspension is fully extended.
When the wheels return to the ground and the suspension compresses, one can be assured that the rear spring will be seated in the correct position within the top spring perch.
Like he said.... Not really too necessary if installed properly. I have yet to see a car that is even used a lot for track / autocross have any issues with this...