havoc

Thanks for reading this. I have a 1995 C2.
My left side power started to malfunction in the past 2 weeks. At that time, the driver side switch started sticking in the up position. I continued to use the window while I awaited the arrival of a replacement switch. I was pretty good about insuring that the switch was in the neutral position after I raised the window, however every once in as while I would find the switch stuck in the up position. Something in the system finally broke and the "up" function stopped working.
I used a switch from the passenger side to raise it and replaced the failed switch with a new unit. Now, the window will go down using the switch but will not rise. I replaced the relay and this did not rectify the problem.
Today I removed the door panel and jumped the motor connector to the opposite terminals on ther motor in order to raise the window. The motor did fine raising the window by pushing the switch down.

The window motor and regulator are good.
The relay and fuse are good.
The switches have been replaced/swapped around.

What am I missing or doing wrong? Could I have a batch of bad switches?
What terminals on the door switch and connector do I check with a multimeter to verify correct operation?

Thanks,
Jim S.

wayne325

One of the window motor switches was replaced on my 97 993 by the previous owner.
Both of the switches on my driver door are now toast and I will have to replace both of
them. This is apparently a very common problem. I've been told it is easy to replace
them - you just pop it out by gently prying on a corner with a screwdriver. No need
to remove the door panel. But I haven't done it yet. Maybe someone else can pipe
up on this.

Sooner

I had a broken one a while back. THe small plastic tabs on the switch break very easily. It can be fixed in about 10 min with a paper clip. There is a DIY on P-Car. I also found this link for a great price on new switches $15.46 (haven't bought them yet though, as the fix above worked fine).

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...indow%20Switch

havoc

Wayne and Brian Thank you.
The replacementr relay was bad. I was trying to work through troubleshooting with a faulty new part.
I swapped the sun roof relay with the power window relay and all seems to work fine.

Jim S.

911

How's that for a search? My post is 3+ years after the last one on this thread!

Anyway, I believe my 993 has fallen prey to a faulty window (passenger). When it comes to popping out the switches, is it as straight forward as getting a screwdriver and prying it open at the edges? Thanks in advance.

delanobe

You can pop the switch out with a flat screwdriver without a problem.

Ciao

911

Thanks! Do you know if both switches on the driver's door have to be replaced for it to work? I thought I had read that somewhere.

911

Ah, I just read on another search that both driver & passenger switches need to be swapped out at the same time because it's a closed loop circuit.

CADguy

Rich,

The drivers side and passenger side window switches for the passenger window are in series (closed loop circuit, as you call it). When one fails, the circuit is broken and not even the good switch will operate the window. You DO NOT have to replace both switches, it's just that both need to be in working order.

I had the drivers side switch for the passenger window break last year. A fellow Rennlister suggested non Porsche replacements from Automotion.com for $13.99 each (I think the Porsche OEM switch is about $40?):

http://www.automotion.com/product.as...Fid=4770#tab_a

I bought a couple for when the next one fails

I pryed out the bad switch with a plastic spudger, unconnected the old switch then connected the new switch all in a matter of a few minutes. Even with the non Porsche switch right next to the drivers side original switch, the difference is not obvious (maybe a slight finish difference).

I don't operate the passenger window from the drivers side very often, but it works well and has held up.

Good luck!

911

Thanks a lot for your response, CADguy! I may go w/ the after market switch. Thanks, again.

CADguy

You're welcome!

I had a switch fail and a Rennlister helped me out, just passing it on

In the picture below, you can see the original switch on the left, and the replacement $13.99 switch from Automotion on the right. I can't see a huge difference, even with the brightness of the flash (the replacement is not quite as dark maybe?).

Gary

JimPA

The driver with switch wasn't working after the body shop repaired the door check. That was just a loose connection to the switch. This past summer one of them stopped working but started again after I removed it, stared at it for a while, checked the connector and reinserted.

A putty knife is my favorite removal tool. The blade is thinner and wider than a screwdriver so doorcard damage is unlikely. Alternate working out the top and bottom of the switch. When you can grip the switch, pull straight out with your fingers.

iluvrots

Any of you guys have a problem putting the new switch back in ? I had a heck of a time, not enough wire to pull it out of the door to get your fingers behind the "female" end to snap them together. What did you guys do.

JimPA

The wiring seemed short the first time I did this. I think I pulled the door panel off to get good access. It hasn't been necessary to do that subsequently.

CADguy

It has been quite a few months, but as far as I can remember, the biggest issue was coaxing the bad switch out (which I think was the original) without doing any damage.

I did the drivers side passenger window switch (the one on the right) and there was enough wire to pull out to do the swap. Did you also do this one, or was it the drivers window switch? Maybe it has less slack to pull out.